For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[bnicho]

It's an oil level sensor on my RT112. I swapped sumps just to keep that sensor. The low oil level light is in the ESP roof console of my car.
Cheers,

[Steve M]

The position of the sensor could have been moved from under the sump to reduce the likelihood of damage to it and the feaking that would follow.
Alternatively, the position could be due to being in a different model i.e. not celica.

I think the temperature of the oil and of the water would be different. Water conducts heat much better and would cool much faster in the radiator. Oil, transferring heat slower and not passing through a heat dissipating radiator would hold a higher temperature. Please tell me if I am wrong, but that is what I think. In later models oil coolers were installed. This must have been due to the temperature of the oil rising to a point above the most effective range of the oil.

[RA35GT]

Its an oil level switch on my car also for the esp

[RAd28]

Justen - That sounds like the best explaination from what i've seen...

[river]

Hi,

I don't understand the need for an oil temp sensor, when you think about it oil and water both pass through the engine, and will be at the same/similar temp, so there really can't be much benefit to getting temp readings from both fluids.

No, they are different temperatures. Water passes around the engine, oil goes through it.

seeyuzz
river

[chaRwie]

thanks for helping guys, so many replies for a sat night lol

so oil level sensor, u must really have neglect ur car for the oil to get that low

[RA35GT]

not unusual for japanese cars...

[RAd28]

Hi,

No, they are different temperatures. Water passes around the engine, oil goes through it.

seeyuzz
river

But once that lump of iron gets to normal operating temps, the variations between oil galleries and water jackets aren't going to be significant enough to be of concern, particularly when you consider the fact they (would) be measuring the temperature from the sump (for oil) and thermostat housing (for water). You'd hardly be able to extrapolate those values for being the values within the respective galleries.

[The Witzl]

oman... i have no idea what you are talking about. Use pics

[roadkill]

Something IMPORTANT to note:

Some time ago, I mentioned in this thread that the upper thermostat housing for a KE30 (Kilkenny Castings part number WO31) was the correct item for an 18R-G. Well, what I discovered on the weekend was that when they re-designed the thermostat housing for the 18R-GUE to make room for the fuel rail, they mirrored the upper housing to move the rear bolt toward the head. So the WO31 housing I purchased is no good for this application.

I trawled around last night looking at the Kilkenny Castings catalogue and images of their range, and there are a few likely suspects which use the same gasket as the 18R-C, and look like they could fit. So it will be a matter of going through what the supplier has and working out the best fit item. I will let you know what the part number is when I figure it out.

So if you have a standard 18R-G or 18R-GU and your thermostat has the rear upper housing bolt further away from the head than the front one, then WO31 will allow the standard upper hose to fit (for RA23/28/35/40 at least). If you have an 18R-GUE then it is a different story.

Hi,

i had a look at my upper housing apparently from and 18rgue and indeed it will not fit onto a normal 18rg lower casing but this is because the bolt holes are slightly rotated around and it places the upper housing a little bit back and would basically piss out water as there is very very little room for the seal. I now have to try and find out if the guyi got the upper housing from has the lower one still!

I'll shoot pics up later this week as i've gone over my quota!

Would be interested in pics of your though owen.

bEn

[timbosaurus]

Rad, actually, it's not unusual to see >20degree difference between oil and water temps. it takes longer than expected to equalise after hard work too

[The Witzl]

ahhh.. i understand now!!!

i think about 40 pages back i gave pictures of the two thermostat housings side by side. It was probably hosted on my old webspace tho.
There is no commonality between the 18RG and 18RGEU thermo housings other than the mounting face to the head.

EDIT:..... found the pic on my PC. Here you go!

[o_man_ra23]

Ben, Kilkenny Castings part number WO31 is what you want for a normal 18R-G lower housing (left in Witzl's pic)

I need the different upper housing found on the right in his pic. I also need to find a suitable thermoswitch to go into the middle slot (green connector in Witzl's pic).

[Javal]

Anybody chasing a pair of factory Solex? I've got some i need to get rid of.

The EFI devil has caught up to me. My super awesome 18R-GU will be getting BT 20V quad throttles and injection.

[Steve M]

Javal,

I chose to use the silver top throttles because they are cylindrical where they mate onto the manifold. The black top ones are not, there would be more work involved with port matching them.

I also didn't see the point in going so large with the throttles as the ports and valves are definitely a larger restriction. The standard port size is 36mm. 43mm throttles with no venturis (44mm/45mm carbs had venturis/'chokes' reducing their diameter) should be enough.

Short of putting on the black top throttles for the sake of being able to state the throttle size and to make it more attractive to the Police, I didn't see the benefit outweighing the price difference and extra stuffing around with the manifold.

If I was going to start again, I think I would use something like the extrudabody throttles or something Weber pattern based, like the Jenvey throttles.