For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[checksix]

Ian, I have tried to attach a picture but they would be the size of a postage stamp! I'll need to upload to a photo service or PM me. The bug runs the 18R-G with an early 80's supra 5 speed running through a 8 inch Ford with 3.40 gearing (3.7 would be perfect when I get to this)! Front suspension is out of a newer Midget with disc brakes, and the rear has disks off a Corolla Sweet 16. A few other tricks like VDO instruments to get better night lighting and to customize the color. Hope this was what you were interested in. Didn't want to bore the rest of the forum.

[Nevakikamukau]

Hi Folks,

I am a new member of Toymods CC, and apart from owning a 200 Corolla, I also have a 18R GU engine and gearbox that I am going to fit into a Mark 1 Escort. I know that I will probably alienate the purists in both the Toyota and Ford camps, but I see my project as a melding of a classic engine of its era into a classic chasis of its era, and see my car as my personal creation built to please me and not a bunch of anorak clad purists. I believe that my machine will represent the amalgam of best low-cost technology of the time.

OK, so to make the transplant fit I will be using a rear bowled sump from an 18R G Hilux 4WD with oil pick-up. My problem is: what do I do to relocate the dip-stick? Can anyone tell me what needs to be done here. Do I just drill through the side of the block, and perhaps weld on a strengthening boss?

Any help will be appreciated.

Pete

[roadkill]

Hi,

uh, you don't need to relocate the dipstick. I just drilled a hole in the baffles in the sump. So where the hole is on the drivers side (inside the sump, there is a plate kinda like a baffle with a 20mm hole in it) do another one on the other side. Or are you talking about using an 18rc block to convert over to an 18rg as the dipstick goes on the other side of the block? There is provision for it already. Have a look at an 18rg block

bEn

[Nevakikamukau]

Thanks bEn,

My engine and block are 18R GU. I haven't stripped the old centre bowl sump off yet and fitted the rear bowl one. The dipstick is on the near side of the vehicle (the left hand side when looking from the back to the front, or the exhaust manifold side). I thought that the dipstick might impinge on the bottom of the sump when the rear bowl sump is fitted. If it is just a matter of drilling a hole in the baffle then I will be happy.

Actually, the dipstick located on the induction side of the motor would have been a more sensible design by the Japanese engineers as it would have remove the risk of getting knuckles burnt on extractors when checking the oil level.

Pete

[river]

Hi,

Except you can't reach the dip stick when it's on the induction side due to carbies and the air box that covers them.

seeyuzz
river

[Nevakikamukau]

Cheers River,

Never thought of that.

[rallyra28]

Hi all.
Quick question...am in the process of re-building an 18rg.
Having trouble locating the top and large side chain guides. ("D" and "C" in the workshop manual)
Does anyone know where they can be procured.?
Thanks.
Rob.

[Steve M]

The top one is usually still available through Toyota.

The other one is not available anywhere anymore.

I don't know of any projects to re-produce them yet.

[rallyra28]

Thanks Steve.
My local Toyota dealer says the top one is out of stock in Japan...am exploring other options including re-making existing ones...do you know what the original material is ?
Thanks....Rob.

[o_man_ra23]

Rob, there have been people who re-coated theirs with a hard ebonite type material, however I recall hearing a report that one of them let go??

I would suggest that a polyurethane material would work well, as it should be quite resistant to the constant rubbing, constant oil immersion, etc, and would provide slight cushioning to the chain should any chain slapping occur.

Keep us all informed on what you do. You aren't the only one with this problem, I can assure you

[rallyra28]

Thanks Owen...will let you know how i go.
Rob.

[Steve M]

O-man

Polyurethane is not a suitable material as it does not like oil, heat or friction. It has great resilience and rebound characteristics, but it no good in this application.

Carboxylated Nitrile or some other form of nitrile is what you need to look at. (recommended to me by Adelaide Technical Rubber and some other companies when I was looking to do that same thing).

The tooling prise and the issues with a small batch made it non-viable for me. (I already have spare genuine parts)

[o_man_ra23]

Fair enough, will talk to the local plastics mob (which Mum's BF works for)... they have an oil impregnated PU that can be poured...

[thdevilshands]

Hey guys

Had a closer look at the timing on the 18RGEU today

with the dizzy rotor at no 1 (TDC) the two cam shaft indicator marks are at about 11 oclock

as I spin the crank and the dizzy rotor to halfway between cyl1 and cyl3 the cam mark on the intake is at 12:00 and the exhaust is at 1:00

I believe timing should be 12:00 on both in and ex at TDC???

Thanks, Jon

[ra_28]

It all depends if your camshafts are standard or custom. For standard cams yes but if they are regrinds they could be set different. I know the cut outs on mine were not set at the top.

Regards
Alex