you sure that other one isnt a t series irsed unit?
I took the diff out of my corona this afternoon. The diff was is very close to exploding.
The spare diff I had was from a diff shop. They had my MA61 diff and they lost it so they gave me this replacement diff. Now they said it was from a RA65 and that it would fit but now that I have pulled it out it looks a bit too different to fit.![]()
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Can someone tell me what this looks like it is from.![]()
And does anyone have a RT142 diff or one that is compatible in brissy or the gold coast I need this asap so I can get my car back on the road.
Thanks in advance.
Diff on the right is the one I pulled out, on the left is the RA65 one ?
Left one = RT142
Right one = RT142
They are a little bit different in size and and spare one will not fit in the housing that the diff bolts into as the diff flares out to where one of the bolt holes are and is too wide to fit in the housing.
Any ideas what type of diff this is from and anyone want it LOL
Last edited by Mr Multivalve; 16-06-2007 at 03:16 PM.
Corona Creed:
Good to Drink, Great to Drive, keep them separate to stay Alive!![]()
you sure that other one isnt a t series irsed unit?
I dunno I was told it was a RA65 one but I need a guru to show me the light![]()
Corona Creed:
Good to Drink, Great to Drive, keep them separate to stay Alive!![]()
sa63= t series irs
ra60=t series live
ra65 = f series irs
sa63's and ra65's look very much the same and the majority of wreckers i've been to 65's and 63's have been raped and pilaged for the box's and engines so it could be understandable for someone un-educated in the ways of toyotas to mistake one for the other or wrecks are dogey mabe they just wanted a sale meh
you could allways cock the center out and measure it up f series are 7.5inch big but from the pics i dont no man the so called "ra65" unit looks small
or you could pull the half shaft out and count the spline f series i pretty sure are 27 spline
It is a about 2cm shorter than the one i pulled out too, I will be calling them up and taking it back and I will get the pricks to give me money or a ma61 one.
Thanks
Corona Creed:
Good to Drink, Great to Drive, keep them separate to stay Alive!![]()
Yep the one of hte left is T series IRS, e.g. SA63, some GA6x etc.
It won't fit, and you'd also need a longer driveshaft etc. Take it back!
Cheers
Wilbo
Thanks heaps for that wilbo well it might be a lot easier for me to sell the thing and then put the money towards a torsen etc...
It is in good nick for what I have been told, what are they worth ?
Thanks
Mr Multivalve
Corona Creed:
Good to Drink, Great to Drive, keep them separate to stay Alive!![]()
T series IRS aren't worth much I'm affraid, simply due to lack of demand....!
Cheers
Wilbo
Ok thanks I think i will take it back to the diff shop and tell the mongrels to source me a F series diff
Corona Creed:
Good to Drink, Great to Drive, keep them separate to stay Alive!![]()
Well I pulled my diff out this morning, the spare was given back to the shop and they are going to source me a F series.
Now I pulled the back off my diff that was making grinding noises, i locked up on me at one stage and i did a 20 foot skid on the way home the other day it was pretty funny.
I have pulled the back off the diff and looked inside it, all i could see were some really small metal shavings, there are no teeth missing that I can see anywhere there was grease over everything. I am not sure how much should be in there but it looked ok.
Here is a pic of the insides off the diff.
Now if no teeth are missing off the cogs then is it the bearings that can make a diff seize or something else. It looked ok to me but I am no diff expert. The cog connected to the axel mount at the front of the diff looked ok, no missing teeth.
Any ideas, can I clean it up and put it back in with some fresh grease. When I spin it now it does not make the grinding noise that it was before ?![]()
Last edited by Mr Multivalve; 16-06-2007 at 03:17 PM.
Corona Creed:
Good to Drink, Great to Drive, keep them separate to stay Alive!![]()
As I have been informed that normally diffs have heaps of oil in them, well my one was kind of dry. Not a good thing, i will fill it up with oil tomorrow and see if it runs alright. Pretty stupid i know![]()
Corona Creed:
Good to Drink, Great to Drive, keep them separate to stay Alive!![]()
With my current diff of a 3.5 ratio I would sit below 2000rpm at 100kms on the highway.
Can anyone tell me if I go to a ratio of 4.3 i know it will be better for pickup but how much higher will my rpm sit on the highway. 3000rpm at 100kms??
Corona Creed:
Good to Drink, Great to Drive, keep them separate to stay Alive!![]()
Hmm, I work it out that you should be at about 2350RPM with a W58 and a 3.58 at 100kph...(that is with 185/75 R14 tryes....but even with 185/100 R14 tyres you still would have to do over 2000RPM with a W58 and 3.58 diff to go 100kph! lol)
With a 4.3 you will be @ ~2800RPM @ 100kph
graph here!
Here is a very usefull link!(kudos to norbie)
http://akb.norbie.net/Public/Gearing.aspx
Cheers
Wilbo
Hey thanks for that, i figured that there was about a 22% in ratio so that translates to about an extra 400rpm at 200rpm which is not that bad at all really.
Thanks
Corona Creed:
Good to Drink, Great to Drive, keep them separate to stay Alive!![]()
You will never see chips out of the Crown gear, the damaged area will be the outter edge of the red i drew on the pic:
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/3588/untitledwn3.jpg
Its the pinion that gets chips, the crown will just have wear marks that you wont be able to see. And when the pinion is chipped, the crown is always damaged.
Originally Posted by skiddz
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