1jzgte electrical issue

[wilbo666]

Hi all,

Step 1:Go look at this video... (might be waiting to upload)
Step 2: ??????
Step 3: Fix the problem (bah I can hope!)

The engine RPM doesn't change, however the rpm output from the ignitor does change; and change wildly.

The problem isn't there all the time (of course, that would make it too easy?). I drove over 50km the other day with no issue. But today trying to get to work (about 5-7km?) was too much for it, at a guess it made it 3km before it starting being 'special'.

For the first 3km today it was fine (and the 50km yesterday)

Then the problem slowly starts, the tacho will move slightly (200-400 rpm), as you keep driving it will start getting worse untill you can be doing 6000+rpm idling (and the rpm is swinging around!).

When it starts getting worse it will start to backfire, chug and then stall. It has at times (with two different ignitors) thrown code 14 (no IGF).

The car will generally start fine, and then after the ~2sec of start up idle up the problem will come back if it was there...

I suspect it is heat related...

I've changed the ignitor (macho props to teh Norbie) to no effect. In fact this morning when it was being very 'special' I swapped the ignitors and from the get go the problem was there.

I've also swapped one coil pack (5-6); I guess I can keep swapping them at a guess


Background
-Engine has been running in car for about 18months
-Engine has done over about 25000km in that time
-I did the wiring
-Car is MA61 (if anyone didn't know)
-Fuel pump is a walbro

Cheers
Wilbo

[JustCallMeOrlando]

So it IS doing it again? Couldn't be a nick in the ignitor wiring?

[Draven]

-I did the wiring

Problem found? (jk)

iirc, the 1jz gets it's RPM signal from the CAS... is it possible that somewhere along that shielded cable (you did use a shielded one?) there's a split, or something has melted, or rubbed off?

that's the first thing I'd check anyhoo

that would explin the crazy tacho readings and the comp0uter dumping wrong amounts of fuel in... might not be igniter at all?

[wilbo666]

The CAS wiring is factory, as is all the other wiring to the ECU / ignitor.

I'd love to check the CAS, and as soon as I remove the alternator so i can look at it I prbly will (tis a homo place to put it, access is non existant)

It is on my list of things to look at tho, ta

Oh and i'm pretty sure we can rule the ignitor out!

Cheers
Wilbo

[sideshow]

i had a 1j do silly things ages ago

i removed one of the cam sensors while it was runnign and it fixed the problem

dont know if thats a good thing to do but i coul dnot find out y it was doin that

and to pull th eloom apart woul dhave been a 500 dollar job so guy said to leave it like that with only one cam sensor

cant remember which one it was

but whil eits running try removing a cam sensor plug

it might stall

could also be ecu issue

can u try yr ecu in another 1j

i have got 2 fukt 1j ecus here with driver problems

[wilbo666]

I don't have access to another JZZ30 ecu (or a car to put my ECU in). If one of your stuffed ecus is a JZZ30 I might be interested in buying it off you...

Cheers
Wilbo

[wilbo666]

I did get a chance to get the CRO out for a few hours on the weekend...

Can't say that I had 100% success however. In the whole 4+ hours of driving the problem occurred once for only a few seconds. Urgh, nothing like a very intermittent problem to keep things interesting.

When the problem did happen I observed a few things, my connection to G2 had fallen out...however placing it back in I couldn't see any G2 signal! The IGf wavefrom also was looking abnormal at the time.

Also messing around near the ECU I could hear humming / buzzing while trying to inset the G2 CRO probe connection. That being the case I might replace the electrolytic caps in the ECU

Also, dang is it even possible to remove the plugs to the CAM sensors on the 1jzgte! <what a bastard position for the cam sensors & plugs!>.

Pretty waveform:

CH1 = NE
CH2 = G1
CH3 = G2
CH4 = IGf

Cheers
Wilbo

[chris davey]

I am no help with your electrical but that sure is a pretty waveform. Very interesting

BTW for those that don't know
NE: crank angle sensor
G1: 1 cam angle sensor
G2: 2 cam angle sensor
IGF: signal sent from igniter to ecu (I think? I don't have one of these anymore )

[thechuckster]

does the sensor output get remoted to the diagnostic port like the O2 sensor?

buzzing/zapping is not a good sound for a 12/5V device

[wilbo666]

does the sensor output get remoted to the diagnostic port like the O2 sensor?

No it doesn't

buzzing/zapping is not a good sound for a 12/5V device

It simply a highish frequency hum, I wasn't too concerned.

Cheers
Wilbo

[wilbo666]

Well I have replaced the Electro Caps in the ECU (three were very, and I mean very slightly leaking; as in look under the microscope to verify that they were leaking)...

This hasn't solved the problem

Today it played up on me again (about 300km since the last issue), and it didn't want to start again...

Threw code 13 when trying to start (IGf)...

I went and got the CRO. (alas USB flash drive wasn't working initially ).

Came back and the prob was still there (yay!)....NE, G1, G2 signals look good! All there!

IGf signal sometimes plays up!....

Sometimes you will be able to see TWO IGf pulses...e.g. -------|_|-|_|-------

where usually there should be one e.g. -------|_|------

This could explain the tacho indicating higher than expected...

Sometimes the problem becomes very bad and the IGf signal becomes inverted! or the IGf signal cycles between inverted and normal (I need a pic).


Still trying to track this one down I know it isn't the igniter!

Cheers
Wilbo

[2jzhilux]

it could be a problem with the cas (getting two pulses instead of one )i would check that and the wiring first

[wilbo666]

it could be a problem with the cas (getting two pulses instead of one )i would check that and the wiring first

There is a code for too man / too few NE pulses between G1 / G2 pulses, and also no NE signal for 100mSec... (code 13 http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_2_13.htm)...

It can happen and throw no codes...

If it was consistently throwing code 13 then you might be on the right track!

Cheers
Wilbo

[Norbie]

Can you borrow a 1JZ ECU from someone? That's a quick and easy way to rule out the ECU.

[cambelt]

What tacho booster are you using , sounds like somethings a miss with it .
Dave