Toyota's Interchangable Oddities.... (TIO#)

[o_man_ra23]

Not quite, the increase in rotational diameter changes the braking capacity quite significantly. A car which uses the same calipers and same pads but with the discs 20mm greater in diameter will brake better than the disc which is 20mm smaller.

Fixed fo Joo

Cheers, Owen

[RT104GT]

nope, i spent the afternoon down at pick-a-part pulling rear disks off 4 cylinder camrys! I think they might've been upgraded on the face-lift models?

Also, the VZV21 uses the same front brake pads as the Aus spec. ST185 GT-Four. The rotor is 20mm smaller in diametre, but it should have the same effective braking power without the extra weight? All XV21 camrys and FWD / AWD celicas up to the ST205 also use the same rear brake pads.

I guess thats the ones with the extra driving lights and the taillights in the boot section.

[takai]

Fixed fo Joo

Cheers, Owen

Yeah, i figured in context the wider/narrower would be understood as being diameter not thickness.
Obviously i was wrong.

[AndyTTR]

thanks for clearing that up takai. In regard to exactly which year Camry it was i'll grab a pic of the build plates next time im down there.They were definitely the 87-92 model though.

Cheers guys.

[cam_ra40]

Just a couple more FWD corolla TIO's

the ae92/ae101/ae112 mirrors are all interchangable as far as mounting. I can't confirm the wiring for the electric type however. The ae112 mirrors are a much nicer rounded design rather than the generic sv21/ae92/vn-vs commodore/pintara etc mirror that the ae92's have in Aus. the ae95 4wd wagons come with the jap spec mirror which is also a nicer shape if you can find them.

I have also recently found that the rear wipe from the zze12x corollas fits the ae92's fine and faces the right side. they are a much nicer rounded design.

Regarding the SX door trim cup thingies that i mentioned in an earlier post, i think the sw20 MR2s also have these, they look the same although i havn't tryed to swap them around. Someone with an MR2 might beable to confirm this.

[cam_ra40]

Exterior ST162 and AE92 door handles are the same. Might be useful for someone who wants lockless doorhandles in an st162, just use ae92 rear door handles

[cam_ra40]

the 4afe starter motor from the ae95 4wd wagon fits a 4agze just fine (both use an E series gearbox).

[Kebin]

the 4afe starter motor from the ae95 4wd wagon fits a 4agze just fine (both use an E series gearbox).

Also the pull in solenoid of an jdm 4agze starter is larger than that of a ae95 4afe starter for those that wanted to know what the difference was.

Both starter motors are reduction type btw

[parrot]

I kept fishing around under various cars at pick a part and have sorted this out. If you have an ADM AE86 and have fitted a JDM T series rear end and have the two factory rear handbrake cables, then get the front cable from a SV11 Camry (the first model) and it is a perfect length, no need for sticking spacers under the nuts. A small thing, but always annoyed the hell out of me.

[RT104GT]

I kept fishing around under various cars at pick a part and have sorted this out. If you have an ADM AE86 and have fitted a JDM T series rear end and have the two factory rear handbrake cables, then get the front cable from a SV11 Camry (the first model) and it is a perfect length, no need for sticking spacers under the nuts. A small thing, but always annoyed the hell out of me.

ON THE SUBJECT OF HANDBRAKE CABLES:

The rear disc conversion of an RT104 or RA series Celica relies upon the use of the Avanti rear handbrake cables if you want them to hook up correctly without any problems, but which have different outer sleeve lengths when you pick a part.
This is a real pain in-as-much that you have to buy 2 short cables (I had to buy 4 as they won't split them up) and even then using the bar attachment under the handbrake from the Avanti the cables are still too long and you run out of screw adjustment before they are tight enough. So how to hook up the solder pads so they don't let go?

Here is my solution.

I solved this QED in the RT104 by taking the bare inner of each cable and crossed them over/past each other to the opposite ends of the curved RT104 handbrake attach bracket, which means you use up the extra slack.
THEN folding over the locating tabs on each end of that original curved bracket to hold those solder end tabs in place, and adjusting up the nut on the handbrake connect shaft until the curved-Tee bracket is nice and firm and the outer concertina rubber seals of the hand brake cables pull up against the brackets through which they pass on the car body.
I also fitted the two nylon runners that came with the Avanti cable into their keepers on the body floor, and cut through one side of the smaller RT104 keepers/bushes and fitted them into their own bracket immediately to the rear of the Corona handbrake attach Curved tee bracket. Slip the inner cable through the slot you cut to get them off the old cable and then turn them 90 degrees to keep the cable in.

With correct adjustment the Avanti cables will stop and hold the car on a hill and the inner handbrake shoes work within their correct operating travel/range.

As to how Disc conversions go in an RT104 or RA for that matter, 50% better brakes and the best hard pedal ever experienced.

I have had no need to change or adjust the rear pressure compensating device even under hard stops the inefficiency of the discs w.r.t. first stop on drums cancells out any tendancy to lock the back wheels.

[TA-022]

nice work RT! just the info i needed

[6BOOST]

Well. sorry to be lazy, I'm at work and don't have an hour to scan all 17 pages, but I read a lot of info on shimless buckets etc that fit the 4aG engines etc such as 1szfe, but does anyone know if there is a shim under or shimless bucket that will fit straight into the 1G?? They seem to be around 28mm in diameter. You can only run so much lift per deg of durtaion, and I already have [email protected]" now, but only 9mm of lift, would like to get another mm or 2 into it.

Any info would be extremely appreciated. And if anyone hasn't said it already, 1G main bearinsg are the same as 3SGTE and supercharged rod bearinsg are the same as 4K toyota, there is no interchangable bearing for the turbo rod bearing. The NA engine uses a 4aG rod bearing. a Very cheap way of building a 1G stroker is use a turbo crank and Supercharged rods, and as the blown angine has a 2mm smaller journal, offset grind the crank 2mm and use the 4k bearing. They are available up to 1.5mm thick, so you could even go 3mm extra. There is an absolute shitload of meat on teh top of the pistons, so just machine the appropriate amount off the top of the piston. More compression, more capacity, and should handle 500hp at the fly with ease

6BOOST

[cptsideways]

I'm in the process of doing my GZ20 IJZ swap & thought some of you might be interested, as my 1JZ is from a JZZ30 & I don't think anyones done one of these swaps yet??

Anyway some interetsting finds... for those building drift cars especially

Subframe/Crossmember




The JZ Item is an alloy one, (at least the main front section anyway) & its a good few KG's lighter than the GZ item. I'd say 15-20kg's lighter. If it could be used, you could also gain 30cm of track width up front & use the slimmer JZ supsension arms for more lock. Only problem is the bolt on section to the car shell is about 35mm wider & will require some mods to fit, I'm thinking of welded a box section to the inner arch chassis area. Also the rear member section is a lightly bolted on steel section & won't fit the GZ chassis, so using the rear GZ item cut away & fabricated to suit you could save 15-20kg's easy enough maybe a bit more.

Suspension Lower Arms




The JZ items are cast as opposed to pressed for the GZ, they are considerably narrower in profile, allowing for heaps more lock!! the fittings are nearly the same though one 5mm spacer will be required on the bushes, though this allows for additional adjustment for castor mods It'd be possible to use the GZ/MZ bushings in the JZ arms which would mean the arms will bolt straight up.


The JZ one the lower pivot is 5-10mm further forward than the GZ allowing for more castor. They weigh about the same. The lower knuckle pivot bolt is also bigger on the JZ version so you'll need to use the JZ hub, which mean the big brakes will bolt right up. The lower shock mounting point will need to be fabricated, but again an easy job.

The lower arms could be used on a GZ/MZ subrame with the JZ hubs

Obviously using a JZ subframe means all the rack connections will bolt straight up too

[strat]

I have been told that a AE86 and a AE71 crassmenber will fit a RA40. i need to swap my crossmember to fit a 3SGTE. Is this true?

[o_man_ra23]

not sure on that strat, but the KE70/AE71 steering rack can be used on a TA23 xmember for the 3S conversion. Go down to a wrecker and take some measurements of the XE7X xmember and post em up mate. You would still get that fantastic corolla bumpsteer though.

Cheers, Owen