Solex diagram - exploded view and tips

[mike1980ra40]

diagram from the rebuild kit.
big enough to print full page.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h5...ex_diagram.jpg

edit: thought I'd add to the title, looks like it might go that way

[river]

Hi,

There's some exploded diagrams of these carbs in the The Mammoth 18R Diagram Thread..... http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...ht=mammoth+18r

However, there are 108 illustrations in that thread and it may be too much for people to download. So, here's the carby pics for you....

18R-G and 18R-GR (April 1973 - September 1975)





18R-GU (October 1975 - June 1977)






seeyuzz
river

[mike1980ra40]

Curious about one thing in the image 18R-G and 18R-GR (April 1973 - September 1975)
there is a part 2111B, which I have circled with the green in the image below,
is that the choke? after I did my rebuild i turned these by hand and engine revs picked up
they never worked before, Im a solex noobie ... there seems to be a linkage between
the two missing, that was my guess.

cheers

[river]

Hi,

Yes, they're the chokes. They have an indentation to let them settle in the open position. They are joined by a single wire that goes into the cabin and connects to the choke knob. Each carby has a spring attached to an arm that connects to the choke to pull it to the open position.

I don't use the choke ever. Even in the coldest day it doesn't need it. Some people's engines do need it, but for some reason mine starts and runs without choke.

seeyuzz
river

[joey]

yep they certainly are the chokes. A choke cable goes through the 2 flathead screws and then tightened. Once the choke cable is pulled they move diagonally, activating the flap on the carbies to close... note: "flap"=technical term

EDIT: River got in just before me, sorry for the sort of double post.

[mike1980ra40]

Thanks guys, thats what i thought after seeing them work for the first time today, so I'vre been
driving around on stuck closed chokes,. fixed tommorow

double post no worries ..

thanks

[sillycar chick]

For some reason I have needed to install the choke cable, but starting has been easy ever since then Yet others dont need it

I was actually going to start a topic about the parts you have circled in your photo, but I may get the help I need here.

Mine seem to be playing up, particularly the one on the right. It seems to be very loose, and you can "wobble" it around alot with your fingers. The only reason I think its becoming a problem is lately my engine has been getting harder and harder to start from "cold" (even though were in the middle of summer in QLD, so NOTHING is cold here!).

She runs really rough, farts and carries on (a bit like the problems I was having before i installed the choke cable, which mind you fixed the problem). But once the engine warms up it is fine and idles smoothly.

Anyone got any experience with these?

[Hurricane]

whats the wire on the top of the carby for on this one? does it have to have power running to it? as ive got it to nothing at all!!

[mike1980ra40]

For some reason I have needed to install the choke cable, but starting has been easy ever since then Yet others dont need it
............

mine definitely needs it. i will run ok with out however it is a gas guzzler if i do, like 13.5 l per
100k's.

while doing the rebuild i took those round things off blew air down the holes and replaced
the little washer under the circlip that holds it on, you might find the spring under neath
might be getting slack causing it to wobble ( all this is a geuss i'm still new to these carbs)
after i did that they worked and never did before.

[river]

Hi,

whats the wire on the top of the carby for on this one? does it have to have power running to it? as ive got it to nothing at all!!

Damn good question. I have the 73/74 18R-G carbs, so they don't come with the lead. I checked the EPC but it doesn't show anything extra (ie where it connects to and it's not shown in the wiring loom). I'll check my 18R-G manual and see what it says.

seeyuzz
river

[mike1980ra40]

got the choke sussed. spent friday in a wrecking yard looking for a choke cable.
Got myself a choke cable from a KE70, fed that thru firewall to no2 carb and used a length
of steel wire (push bike brake cable) to link up to first carb. all works well, pull on the choke
knob to the first click and chokes opens up to the little indent.
choke knob is temporarily zipped tied to the bottom of the bonnet release until i make a
hole in the dash for it. now to tune it.

edit: dash dimmer control moved to the left side of steering column and the choke mounted
on the right where the dimmer was simple.

[Rodger]

I'll try for a couple of answers.

All Type T Solexes (typically on the 18R-G) have the terminals for the wires. They provide power to two small heating elements (part #21382) under each choke/jet cover. I am not exactly sure but I think the electrical connections are wired into the ignition circuit. Some of our European forum readers would able to say exactly.

The elements are in there to preheat the air and fuel so the engine can be started in places where temps are very bloody cold, such as Japan, North America and in Europe. It basically defrosts and warms the air in the choke circuit. Us Aussies can undo the small nuts and remove the wires (replace the nuts as they hold up the element inside the cover), as we do not need this feature.

SillyCar, do you have the return spring in place (part #21746)?

The choke cover (#21118) does wobble a bit on the internal spring (#21744), as it is pushing the spring to hold the choke disc (#21137) flat. Is that internal spring in there?

Two noob questions, I know but I have to ask

Sometimes the choke cover gets forced back on with the disc in the wrong position. The choke cover has a post that aligns with the notch in the disc (not the post that limits the movement). If it does not, things get very tight and the choke may lock closed or open.

It is also possible to install the two parts so they operate the other way around especially on the S4 and S5 types, that is, an open/on choke when pulled to the front of the engine where it is normally closed.

Regards

Rodger

[mike1980ra40]

Hi people, Have made some progress, ..
I have another question ... what are the screws in these photos. (excuse the makeup mirror )

there are lots of solex parts diagrams and part names on the net. not for these though.

[Rodger]

Damn cannot see the pictures, bloody network system policies here at work.

Can you insert thumbnails? Unless someone has answered in the meantime.

Regards

Rodger

[mike1980ra40]

this is something i meant to mention with this thread a while back, (an on going saga of my
RG rebuild) check the condition of your idle screws. one thing no mechanics picked up on
was this .....



while i stripped the carbs i found this jammed in the No1 idle mixture port, it is a piece of
the mixture screw broken off and was jammed in the little hole blocking it off. its only 2mm
long and about 1mm in diameter but its enough to stuff your idle totally. this is a good
example of why you don't screw the idle screws in to tight.

so take your screws out and check the tips!

I'll up date this post later with i photo of mine, which explains a helluva lot.

Edit update:

took these photos earlier today of the best bits, needles look like they were hammered
in and the air bleed/main jets have been butchered. no 4 needle was bent
ever since this motor was rebuilt its running was very rough, this is half the reason why.
(wish i had my own shed to do an engine build now ...)

no.2 needle
no.1 needle