Solex diagram - exploded view and tips

[Rodger]

Not at all good news to read guys. Fubar. Check all the pasageways again. Check that all the parts are back in correctly. Not teaching you how to suck eggs but start again.

Unfortuneatly unless you get new Webers set up for the motor from the word go and all the linkages sorted out there is no guarentee they will work either.

BTW. #4 screw identified as a plug. In there to give access during manufacture to to drill the pilot/progression holes.

Do you have time to send them my way for a look?

Regards

Rodger

[Rodger]

Joey and Mike,

Can you both check for me. All else aside such as; air leaks, ignition problems, they are closely balanced and can be made to idle and drop to idle smoothly without holding revs.

When the engine is not running do you hear the sound of the pump jets squirting fuel? Sort of a "shhhhhhh" sound on throttle movement.

Remove the filters and with a mirror and a torch (may need two people for this) hold them so you can see into each carby barrel in turn. Pump the throttle again. Can you see a strong jet of fuel heading into the motor?

Joey's symptoms suggest no pump jet, or dribbling of the jet. Mike's could well be shooting back out to the air filter.

Also check that the Inner Venturis have been put back in facing all the same correct way. An inner Venturi turned 180 tends to push air into the main body and effectively stop all fuel in that carby. They have to be forced in backwards but it can be done and has been done before.

Regards

Rodger

[mike1980ra40]

Hi Rodger.

both carbs were stripped dipped and rebuilt, passage ways cleaned out with compressor

Checks I've done: in no particular order, remembering what I've done off the top of my head.

1. run timing light on all 4 HT leads and check the consistency of flash - even on all 4, strong spark on all 4. checked resistance of leads. - leads ok. checked primary and secondary circuits in coil - ok there too.
2. checked for vac leaks around manifold/spacer plates/balance tube - none found
3. using a piece of garden hose when engine off listen to the squirting of fuel from each pot
individually accl pumps working nicely
4. even compression on all 4 cyls
5. throttle links checked for any slackness or twists
6. cam/valve timing checked - all spot on.
7. while engine was running air filters taken off and each pot blocked off one at time. doing
that should see the engine start to stall. engine didn't start to splutter when 1 and 2 were
blocked off (even both at the same time) airflow meter used on 1 and 2 and no flow what so
ever into engine, wasn't sucking in any air at all. usually a sticky valve would would make a
loss of airflow, but compression is good and even on all 4 ...
8. torch and mirror used to checked that throttles where opening up - they did all the way.

however carb two is fine purrs like kitten and has a deep throaty suck and the parts you sent made a massive difference.

You did hit the nail on the head with one thing, before the carbs where rebuilt filters
were often saturated in fuel. since then that has settled, and haven't had a wet filter since.

thats it for know ... if i remember anything else i did or checked I'll add/edit this post

cheers.

edit: engine idled ok and didn't need anything to hold it, let it idle at 900rpm then
held at at fast idle and let go it returned to normal idle ok. Also car was sent off to a mech
for a 5th opinion and got a call from them saying that theres a definat fault with the carb
and they cant find the the fault. They've told me over the phone what they did pretty much
mirrors everything i checked and they even said that they had spend a fair bit of time on it.
am still puzzled.

[Rodger]

Throwing more ideas here.

At idle if no air is flowing at all through the front caby I would have said that the throttle plate was completly shut off.

It is possible to have the carbies so far out of sync that the rear takes over and supplies most of the air and fuel for all four cylinders via the crossover tube and spacer block ports. Then only when the main circuit and the throttle plates get open enough the front one starts to flow.

So another couple of base-line questions.

Does the front carby rest against its idle speed screw, at idle?

Do both carbies hit their WOT stops together?

I'll have to have a play with my sets of cabies to figure out if anything can cause it to be shut down at anytime other than at idle.

[joey]

I definentaly know they are squirting fuel when the accelerator is pressed, can hear it loud and clear. Will go through what i can when i get the car back from the carby place tommorow if they are still running shit (will also give the carby guy a handfull if they are running the same way).

[mike1980ra40]

So another couple of base-line questions.

Does the front carby rest against its idle speed screw, at idle?

Do both carbies hit their WOT stops together?

I'll have to have a play with my sets of cabies to figure out if anything can cause it to be shut down at anytime other than at idle.

Hi Rodger, wont be able to answer those two questions till i get my car back friday,
however wot stop is one thing that wasn't checked. I've also got another pair of solex s5's
lined up and will put those on in place of the ones on their now( using the parts you sent),
then I'll strip those old ones and give them another going over (during the following weekend).
The other thing I'm doing drawing up an idea for a cold intake so I can get rid of
those ramflow filters.

cheers

[joey]

Grrr went to the carby place just before, the guy kept trying to justify and enchance the fact that they are "performance carbs" and "will go through atleast 3 times as much petrol as the single downdraught", he was giving me funny looks when trying to explain the smoke and jamming problem, as if i was lying.
Not only that but he now has put my appointment back to friday instead of today because he is "too busy". He rekons the problem is possibly jetting and when i asked whether or not he is going to charge me he gave me the excuse that because he didn't change the jets that were in them when he rebuilt them that if he changes them that he will charge me for the new jets and labour cost (around $100).
If you live around eastland/bond street area in melbourne and you want to outsource your carb problems to a supposed "specialist" PM me before you do so i can tell you not to go to this place.

Cheers, Joey

[o_man_ra23]

Joey, get the car back from him, tell him to forget it as he is pulling himself too hard, and send your carbs to Rodger. This bloke just sounds like a wank stain. A good friend of mine used to get 11kms to the litre with a 2TG that had almost no rings left... and it was still making decent power and revving to 7000 while pulling. Carby shops etc just dont seem to realise the difference between the quality engineering of the Japs and the 'No replacement for Displacement' fuel gussling americanised engines used in australian built vehicles.

Cheers, Owen

[sillycar chick]

Yeah I agree with Owen, my 2TG/3T hybrid with twin solexs consumes about the same amount of fuel that my 3T did with a single down draught weber. (Never checked by kms but i used to pay ~$50 a week on fuel in the 3T on normal unleaded compared with ~$50 a week on fuel in the 2TG/3T running 98 octane )
Get the things tuned by someone who actually knows these carbies, instead of someone who thinks he can tune them.

[joey]

Well im suppose to take it in friday... so its not at the shop yet. I found out last night 2 of my jet sizes are pretty off compared to the originals (Main air jet = mine 130 vs original 150 and Main jet = mine 750 vs original 145). Reckon this is the problem?

EDIT: Made a mistake in sizes (also read the 1 as a 7)... the only difference is the main jet = mine 130 vs original 145

[Rodger]

Joey,

Actually it is Main jetted on the leaner side, that is by what the numbers are showing. Do you have access to a 1.3mm and a 1.5mm drill bit to check if they have been drilled?

This is one of the OEM standard jetting sets though. So we need to look a bit closer at it. Bugger.

They are "performance" carbies, however they are still only going to supply fuel and air at a rate the engine asks for but do it more effectively.

Remember we are still after an optimal air/fuel ratio regardless of carburetor type and number.

Having said all that they can certainly be a lot hungrier if the right foot is heavy and the engine is pushed hard.

So until they are looked at again I would not worry too much as to what opinions we all have about economy. Let the guy have a look and if needed ask him to check if the jets are what they indicate.

There is bugger all power difference between stock 2Ts and stock 2T-Gs and 2T-Gs do get good economy.

Regards

Rodger

[joey]

Carbys are running nice now. Turns out the idle jets had been drilled out to around 700 dunno why...
Anyway thanks for all the help guys and i hope to never have to come back to this thread again

[o_man_ra23]

i hope to never have to cum back to this thread again

I hope you never cum near my back....

Cheers, Owen

[joey]

lol u just had to drag me back in didn't ya! edited for your pleasure....

[mike1980ra40]

i hope to never have to cum back to this thread again

Hi joey, I know you might have gotten a bit ticked off with the carbs, so did I ... you got
your carbs sorted and that is great mine should back on the road to soon, I was hoping
for friday but now looks like tuesday, (a few minor set backs) i think this thread done ya
good. If you ever get a fault in the future come back to it a re-read it. Had it not been for
river rodger and hurircane with those scans and posts etc there'd be three sets of solex's
on three cars up the creek so far

I new nothing about them a few months back, came back to them later with a fresh aproach
then it clicked. soon as you start feeling frustrated stop what your doing and come back to
it a day or two later, then you'll get that "light bulb" moment.

I don't have to worry about my mates webers on the 2tg, took a bit of a punt on some
solexs from a fellow toymodder to replace the ones i got on there so things should all
sweet.

anyway 'tis cool no worries,