go into a bob jane t-marts. i work at one and we have heaps of spares. dunno how much for though...
I just emailed Speedy earlier.
I told them the rims I have and the car they are going on and they are sending the hub rings out to me free of charge![]()
go into a bob jane t-marts. i work at one and we have heaps of spares. dunno how much for though...
as an extension to this...(sorry YLD)
how tall is this spacer ring?
I am looking for a spacer ring to fit a different disc for a brake upgrade.
Are these spacer rings to tall to fit (ie you could find one to fit for the disc, but then it would sit proud of the disc and could be the wrong diameter for the wheels).
do you just have a custom one made up normally, or do you cut them to make them not so tall and yuse 2 different rings or is it something else entirely?
I've re-read your post a few times barned01, and i still can't make sense of it.
The rings we're talking about here relate to the size of the centre hole on an aftermarket wheel being larger than that of the hubs on the car.
KE20 CA18DET / RN25 12R / IS200 1G / NA MX5 B6
I think (??) barned01 is referring to the thickness? The ID will fit your hub, the OD will fit your wheel centre hole, the thickness would be about the same as the amount the spigot on the hub protrudes I would imagine? Which on my hubs is 12mm.
I think you are doing what I just had done barned01.
I just picked up my hubs today which have had the spigot on the hub increased in diameter to fit the new discs (converted to disc over hub). So now that I have them back in my hands I can head to the wheel shop and get my spigot rings to locate the wheel on the hub.
The hub spigot protrudes 6mm past the disc face on my hubs now.
The increased diameter on the hub centre came up well, you'd never pick it wasn't factory. So only the rings to locate the wheels will look like additional items.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
i'll try again (but i think yld is on the ball what i am talking about)
in the picture below, i need a locating ring for the disc. and i will need a locating ring for the wheel itself
I can see three answers to the issue.
1. a locating ring that is the same height as the disc and sits flush with the disc face, then a separate locating ring which sits over the face of the disc and disc locating ring to locate the wheel
2. a locating ring for the disc that sits proud of the disc (possibly to the end face of the hub) and then another locating ring that goes around this locating ring (it sits only on the disc because it is around the other ring that has located the disc) to locate the wheel
3.a one piece locating ring made to accomodate for both size of disc and size of wheel (could be fun when it comes time to change the disc).
picture is of a side profile of the whole shebang.
so which is considered the correct option?
by the sounds of it yours is an option 2 setup yes? so you just need to look for another locator to go over the other locating ring to this time locate the wheel
Last edited by barned01; 16-02-2007 at 04:45 PM.
number two seems the most likely situation. I've though about this myself. The problem with number one, or atleast with my hubs, is after the disc, the section where you would place the ring is tapered, so an angled inner surface would be required... or turning it down to be cylindrical.
Option 2 is the one you want.
![]()
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Option 3 is out, imagine having to go through all of this again, if you get new wheels with different centre holes.![]()
Option 2 certainly looks the go, as it will be stronger.
cheers Chuck.
"What man can build, man can fix!"
MS51Crown Coupe,
GSV40R Aurion luxo tourer. One TA22 currently receiving some TLC prior to paint One RS56 Crown ute under construction, 2 x TA22's awaiting rebuilds. Toyota Crown RS47J ute in need of serious TLC. Toyota Crown Custom Wagon MS53 daily hauler stocko!
if it is option 2, cruz how hard is it to take the wheel locating ring off? i assume it has to be a tightish fit on the hub but you still need to be able to remove it relatively easily to change the discs yes?
i reckon the one piece thingo is the best bet. less bits to fall off when you yank the wheel off on the side of the highway...
and i like solid objects, rather 2 individual pieces hitting each other
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
You'll find it easier to nail shit to a wall.Originally Posted by barned01
The disc comes off easy though, the ring will be there for life.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
i have another situation
what do i do with weird discs like this
are they designed for stud centric rims or something?
it has a stepped down snout with radiused corners.
so do i just slip a ring on the larger diameter section (left side option), or should i make up a ring to fit over the whole thing (right side option)
I have a Crown
Peewee, remind me when you get home to go have a beer with you and grab those rings I didn't bother getting. This vibration through my wheel is giving me the shits.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
Is this to centre rims?Originally Posted by STR8 2.8
If so, get a locating ring for the rim, that matches the centre of the hub.
It doesn't need to be an interference for on the hub.
And Nathan, check.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
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