AE86 Race Car Engine Options?

[nztoygt]

what about ca18det or sr20det and dont forget 12a or 13b

lots of parts off the shelf and fit in nice and go like stink

see link to my sr powered one

http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n...0mega%20build/

waiting for flame

looked into 3s but one sxe10 to expensive
st205 alot of fu*king around to make it work

[ae86_4life]

NA ofcourse im not a big fan of forced induction in ae86 but what ever floats ur boat. dont have many reasons as to y this setup other than it offers the best of the 4a range. its a strong block with good response.

[oldcorollas]

but block, crank, and rods are same for GE and GZE of same year... and GZE has low comp pistons?
for NA, higher comp would be better no? rather than 8.9:1?

[Hen]

ae86_4life - Read up a little more on the 4A series before offering advice like the above. The setup you mention would be terrible in NA form. As OC points out above, the ZE block, head, cams, valves, everything (bar pistons) are identical to the GE of the same year.

As for the main question, listen to Gianttomato. Read the rules and find out what you are allowed to run and then choose an engine.

Hen

[psychofox]

fFor hillclimbs you will want to pick a class - a 4AGE slots nicely into the top of the 0-1600 class, and a 4AGZE goes into the 2000-3000cc class (1.7X multiplier for forced induction). 3SGTE will put in the 3000+ class, up against Sixes and V8s, etc. You also need to work out what you're going to aim at - State Hillclimbs run under IPRA regs, so you have to run according to CAMS 3J rules. Club hillclimbs are much more relaxed, they just whack you in Type 3 and let you go,

[maddog]

rebuild the 4age,put a set of hks 288 deg. cams on it,add shim under bucket followers and race springs,bump the comp. up to 12 to 1,install a set of mikuni or weber sidedraft carbs,rig up a good spark controller and have fun......the 4agze engines are limited somewhat by having to keep comp. down and the intake is actually restriced by the throttle body-s/c-afm.......you should see about 165 hp+at the crank with the setup i laid out.

[71RA20]

My choice

[71RA20]

Beams would be great choice BUT exspensive

[71RA20]

4AGTE 217HP Here's great write up

http://www.mr2supercharger.com/4AGTE.html

[71RA20]

Another Insane 4AGTE write up.....Cheers

http://www.sitecenter.dk/sjctoyota/s...bog1&UID=10023

[Sam_Q]

I agree with some alog the lines with what ae86_4life is saying:

- get a 4agze or another 7 rib block with oil squirters
- fit 20V trumpets
- aftermarket ecu
- race cams
- ported
- long 4-1 extractors
- high compression forged pistons + aftermarket rods
- fully balanced bottom end

this is what i would recomend for a budget buildup sticking with a toyota engine.


but for what I would personally do I need to know, whats the rules say about engines from different manufacturers? Whats your budget? I would personally use a mazda 13B turbo with a factory loom and a W55 box behind it. Simple, powerfull and light.

[merc-blue]

Forced induction in REAL track events (not drift) are bumped right up catagorys or may not even qualify without restrictor plates etc

Sam_Q is on the right track

- Deffently get a 7 rib with oil squirters
- 20V Head
- Aftermarket ECU
- Big cams
- Instead of traditional porting i would go for shaping and smoothing to the port than just opening them out (race magazine has a good article on race ports i think its 1st eddition (ill scan it in))
- Extractors deffently but the rest of the exaust is also vital use good mufflers and do go for a whopping big size, a 2" or 2.25" would be fine get a lurkey or similar good quality muffler and buy a good cat (not a cheap "hi flow")
- I wouldnt bother with AM rods one a budget build, there expensive and often not needed get a good set of std ones toyota usually over engineer there parts get some stockies shot peened and crack tested.
- Deffently go for high comp, Forged if budget allows.
- Lightened flywheel, 4 cylinders = Revs are you friend! heavy flywheel kills revs
- Balance everything pistons rods (get them all COGed and weighed) also get it ballanced with flywheel and clutch
Other small things like a good timing belt good plugs leads etc will make a difference

I would also be looking at tuning my trumpets
Bassicaly get some cheap trumpets and cut them off then use radiator hose and hose clamps to play with the length while on the dyno, also with trumpets you want the ones with edges full curled otherwise you get way to much turbulance on the rims (will post pics if needed)

[gearb0x]

Just freshen it up and get out there, there is no real point to building purpose built race engines for club events anyway. Stocker 4age's are fine for track work. The other thing is you might be able to run in the "stock" 0-1600 class depending on what event it is, and it will even be competitive. Once you jump into the modified class it takes a lot more $$$ to be competitive.

Once you have some events under your belt and worked out what you want to do, go from there. Id stay away from 4AGZE's unless you want to drift. As was said above forced induction whacks a heavy multiplier on your capacity and you are forced to run with the big boys. So if you want to go FI you have to go all out to be competitive.

Gianttomato has the good advice. If you want to run club/race events you have to be careful of the rules & regs if you want to be competitive.