3TGTEU-W55 into a TA22 Any Suggestions?

[Ta22boy]

Hey All,
I am just about to do the 3TGTEU and W55 conversion into a TA22, and i was trying to see exactly what im up against. I know that this is a common swap and did a search but could find no tech articles stating exactly what other people have done.
I know that it is a direct bolt in, but i need to know the little things like i have been told the front of the engine will hit on the radiator therefore have to mount it back about an inch, is this true? if so has anyone found a way around this? Also with the W55 does anyone know of a X-member that will bolt in and suit both the TA22 and W55? Also when i put in the W55 the other thing i was told is that the starter motor might foul the turbo and have to be swapped onto the other side? And is there any mods needed to be done with the clutch slave cylinder?

Just so you know, my parts list so far consists of the 3TGTEU engine, W55, 1G
bellhousing and clutch fork, Clutch already set up for W55 and T series engine (i got lucky there i think) VL turbo pump, HVLP pump and surge tank. Im also thinking about running 5/16th lines but any help or recomendations would really be a big help especially on anything you may think i have missed or need to buy as i want to do engine swap mid-feb...

Cheers
Scott

[Valkyrie]

Hi,
You can use an automatic TA22 g'box crossmember and tailshaft, or use a RA23-40 manual g'box croomember and tailshaft.
I used the standard fuel lines for my 4AGZE in Celica conversion (TA22).
The orignal main line in the engine bay is a convenient spot for a fuel filter (high pressure).
The oil line for the turbo can be a tight squeeze as well. Something to watch out for.
The engine does not hit the radiator. Keep the clutch fan, and flush the radiator at a minimum.

Cheers

[Cool1]

The engine wont just bolt in! From memory the passenger side engine mount needs to be modified to clear the oil return?
For a crossmember to suit the W55, try and find a TA22 auto crossmember as this will bolt up!
If you leave the mechaincial fan on the front of the engine I think it will hit the radiator. Just unbolt it and use a thermo fan.

[Ta22boy]

Hey,
thanks for your help guys, i was told about the oil return line but somehow it slipped my mind... What mod did you do to clear it? move it or just cut a channel into it? I also was already going to run a thermo fan, as when i bought my engine the clutch fan had already been removed. Anyone know anything about the clutch slave issues i might have?

[ace]

Hey man everything you will need to know is on Simon's site, he did a complete write up when building his.
http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/simons.htm
read it from the bottom.

[Valkyrie]

Hi,
The oil line was replaced on all three I've been involved in (AE86+3TGTEU, TA22+3TGTEU and RA23+3TGTEU).
Does it have the standard turbo? If not, then you might be lucky. I think the lines were lengtened, but were replaced because all had the turbos rebuilt.
If you are using the thermo, then 3 core your radiator and make up a shroud for it. Are you using an oil cooler? All the swaps I helped with had them. Some 3T's were oil-cooling only for the turbo.
A good spot for the loom to go through is the gromets below the washer bottle. You'll need to rap it in some thermo wrap or similar.
You'll also find that the washer bottle should be moved. We put it next to the radiator. The first one started melting.............
A good spot for the boost gauge is the old clock position. I used some mild filing, and the boost gauge went in nicely. There is also the wiring there for the light on the boost gauge.

Cheers

[Ta22boy]

Thanks for the tips!! Simons website is awesome, really nice car...
Yeah so far im running the standard CT20 for the time being (got my eyes on a Garret GT28RS), so on that note i might just have the lines lengthend to suit rather then modify the engine mount (if possible?). Also i didnt get an oil cooler with my engine, and i think the engine itself is oil cooled, so i decided to go a bit of overkill and go for a V8 jaguar oil cooler...just to be safe.. Is it possible to have the standard radiator 3 cored, or will i have to get one made up?

[TA22 GT]

Yep, everything you need to know is on my site.

A couple of tips -
You need a cross member from an early auto Celica, it fits perfect for the W55, just need to move the main mounts back a bit. Pics on my site too.

Best bet is to modify the passenger sidee engien mount to make room for the oil drain. I've also modified the oil line to fit the stock cross member for a CT20 BUT its a very close fit and not worth the hassle, but easier to just mod the cross member mount.

You need to modify the radiator slightly as it has to move forward about an inch to make room for the fan.

You definately need a brake upgrade too for a 3T GTE.

5/16 fuel line size is plenty. You need to spend more time ensuring the fuel pupm is the right size and pressure rating. Remember fuel pressure needed in around 275kpa PLUS the boost you plan to run.
EG My pump is rated at 2.2 litres/min at 500kpa.

Hope this helps.
Simon
http://users.chariot.net.au/~stmezz/celica.htm

[Ta22boy]

Hey mate, yeah brake upgrade is in the works at the moment, i have a set of rear discs of a RT142 corona, and i am still thinking about what to use on the front. Maybe the Puegot 604 rotor, Hilux 4 spot caliper on the XT130 corona struts. My mate did that for his 1GGTE conversion in a RA40 and it pulls up very well. Anyone else got any ideas and front brake upgrade? Im getting the booster re-kitted, and im going to be using a brake master off a ''02'' model Camry altise P/N 47201-06190 which uses a 15/16th bore and apparantley it will bolt on and all i have to do is mod the pushrod to suit. Also simon, congrats on the car, if mine comes out half as nice as yours ill be happy

[Ta22boy]

also quick note on the fuel pump, i havn't researched it myself but from speaking to the guys from petro-ject (fuel specialists) that have assured me that it will flow more then needed,and the other reason i choose it is due to my mate with the 1G ra40 is also using that pump on 15psi and it runs well...but i will look into that before i go ahead with fitting....
Thanks again

[fade-e]

mate if you want an option for a brake upgrade, i did Cruzida's Z32/33 brake upgrade on the TA22. its more complex than the pug/hil/cor conversion but it weighs alot less. basically you need MX73 strut and TA22 struts. Z33 rotor and caliper and Cruzida's conversion kit.

- get the MX73 struts cut down to TA22 strut length and also get the spring seat swapped over (that way you maintain the standard TA22 springs, shocks, and strut tops for convenience).
- get the hubs machined down to fit the rotors (machined down to 144mm)
- heat the conversion ring and place on the hubs
- use the spacer plate for the calipers
- the other thing that will need to be done is that the steering knuckles for the standard TA22 will need to be modified slightly, ie, the strut bolt holes will need to be widened to fit the bigger MX73 struts (its only bout 3-4mm, what i did was widen each bolt hole 2 odd mm. this allowed the strut to remain perfectly aligned. some people will just modify one bolt hole as needed but then the strut will not be completely aligned as per factory and slightly off center)

other than that jsut get everything recoed/rekitted and all is sweet... oh yeah and brakes lines will need to be purchased as i think the opriginal TA22 lines are just a bit short after the conversion...

this upgrade is complete engineerable as my engineer has already signed off on it...

also i didnt notice anyone mention bout the starter, but there is no issue there at all. the motor came standard witha W series box. unless you are not using the original starter

you should move the passenger side engine mount 2inches as needed. that way future mods will not be a headache.

i cant comment on the g/box fitting as i am doing a W58 conversion now and have not even started it... got all the parts though i think

finally with the gearbox, also no one mentioned that you will need to cut the shifter hole. bout 2inch if memory serves me right closer to the hand brake. VERY IMPORTANT otherwise you wont have a shifter to use

i think thats bout it from me...

cheers

[Ta22boy]

Hey Fade-e, Just to make sure, are you talking about using Z32 300zx Rotors and R33 Skyline Calipers? Also did you buy the actual conversion kit (spacers and conversion ring)off cruzida? Have you had it wheel aligned after you put in the MX73 struts? just curious to see what sort of camber you come out with after the mods?

Cheers
Scott

[fade-e]

hey scott...

i used the Z32 calipers and rotors. i went for the last model 30mm thick rotor/caliper setup.

yes i did buy the kit from cruzida, in the parts section he is still selling some kits and his thread on the old forum shows everything that needs to be done is great detail. but what i said above is a run down.

mate i havent had the setup aligned or anything yet. all i did was do the conversion and then strip it back down as the car is getting restored ATM and im getting all the suspension sandblasted and powder coated soon.

it should be complete within the next couple months HOPEFULLY so i can let you know how i go with that if you like but ATM sorry cant help with camber and stuff. though i am assuming that it should remain the same as the stock TA22 setup. the only thing i can think of that will change is the offset...

hope this helps a bit

cheers

EDIT: you can use the early model Z32/R33 setup. the only difference is that the rotors are 26mm thick and the calipers are slightly thinner to compensate for the smaller rotor.

[Ta22boy]

Thanks fade-e, that gives me something to think about. I also just got onto hopper stoppers and am trying to find out exactly what they have available....so ill see how i go, but thanks for everything mate