i've got my wanky 'raizin volt stabiliser' kit intalled which earths to the chassis, and i have a huge earth wire going from the gearbox to the chassis as well.
as crazy as this sounds does the engine have a really good earth?? ive seen all sorts of weird gauge and temp problems from high earth resistances..
i've got my wanky 'raizin volt stabiliser' kit intalled which earths to the chassis, and i have a huge earth wire going from the gearbox to the chassis as well.
[Project] 'Bugger' - 1999 Toyota Hilux Turbo Ute - PB: [email protected] 1.857 60FT Video
[Project] 'Red Baron' - 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four - PB: [email protected] 1.869 60Ft Video
Technical Articles Database 3S-GTE/ST185/Celica - BGB,EPC,Tech || 2RZ/3RZ/5VZ/Hilux - FSM
ahh well got to try some left field engineering.. may well be a faulty temp sender then!!
btw nice lux too, ive seen it cruise around brissy before.
lance - it might pay to:
-borrow a cooking thermometer
-remove sensor from housing
-get a large non-glass thermos and wedge safely in engine ba yin reach of the now loosened sensor
-get boiling water and fill thermos
-dunk the sensor (but not the connector) and the cooking thermometer into the now hot water
-fire up the ECU (but not crank!) and read the ECU temp whil your willing helper reads the thermometer
-drink beer in celebration of knowing how accurate (or not) the ECU/sensor is at reading temps.
i have a digital unit (1 degree accurate up to about 150) that i've used to calibrate my sensors for the megasquirt. Picked it up from the knife shop near the queens street mall entrance of the myer centre food court.
A faulty signal wire will also cause the resistance, and therefore the temperature read high, I have seen this before with an oil temp gauge.
Check your connections for connectivity, has the plug to the temp sensor got wet/corroded? That would explain change over time...
ST185 GrpA #116
ST165 GT4 Project Car - Soon with v6 goodness.
The glass is neither half empty nor half full, rather the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.
Squid: i've checked the connectors, but havn't tested the wire resistence. Good point though.
[Project] 'Bugger' - 1999 Toyota Hilux Turbo Ute - PB: [email protected] 1.857 60FT Video
[Project] 'Red Baron' - 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four - PB: [email protected] 1.869 60Ft Video
Technical Articles Database 3S-GTE/ST185/Celica - BGB,EPC,Tech || 2RZ/3RZ/5VZ/Hilux - FSM
Let us know how you go...
ST185 GrpA #116
ST165 GT4 Project Car - Soon with v6 goodness.
The glass is neither half empty nor half full, rather the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.
its been pretty hot the last week or os in brisbane tho mate - sure its not just the climate changes?Originally Posted by -==L=a=N=c=E==-
Originally Posted by Robbos_Toyotas
as i've said before in this thread, it doesn't appear to be temperature related at all.
[Project] 'Bugger' - 1999 Toyota Hilux Turbo Ute - PB: [email protected] 1.857 60FT Video
[Project] 'Red Baron' - 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four - PB: [email protected] 1.869 60Ft Video
Technical Articles Database 3S-GTE/ST185/Celica - BGB,EPC,Tech || 2RZ/3RZ/5VZ/Hilux - FSM
ok a bleed the cooling system today from all the high points. The heater lines for the cabin, and the turbo.
No change.
although a strange observation of late. Is that when the temperature settles to 94degrees via the microtech, once i stop at idle for a bit, it will go down to 92 degrees, and then shoot up to 99 degrees as normal.
I didn't think weather was a factor, but the more i've been watching the gauge and the temperature, i think it is a large factor. When it is Hot weather, then it doesn't move off 92degrees, while in cold weather it sits at 94 degrees.
Me thinks that the thermostat is at the point of shutting and opening in the cold weather, and due to the location of the thermostat at the bottom of the radiator tank (cold side) and due to the cold weather being more efficient with the large core its shutting etc.
Another thing is if i get heaps of revs into it (i.e. a quick venture of 2nd gear to redline (which is 90kph) the temps drop rapidly.
[Project] 'Bugger' - 1999 Toyota Hilux Turbo Ute - PB: [email protected] 1.857 60FT Video
[Project] 'Red Baron' - 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four - PB: [email protected] 1.869 60Ft Video
Technical Articles Database 3S-GTE/ST185/Celica - BGB,EPC,Tech || 2RZ/3RZ/5VZ/Hilux - FSM
the thermostat is where? wtf? how does that work?Me thinks that the thermostat is at the point of shutting and opening in the cold weather, and due to the location of the thermostat at the bottom of the radiator tank (cold side) and due to the cold weather being more efficient with the large core its shutting etc.
dont mean to point out the obvious, but is it really an issue having the car run at 92-94 degrees? 2J's run up to about this temp day in day out...? Obviously, much higher than this and its getting too hot, but 92ish degrees should be fine....
Have you tried forcing the air through the radiator, ie: using shrouds etc... directing the flow through the radiator. Intercoolers can cause heat stroke, so directing air to go nowhere else but through the radiator will help
Ben
Originally Posted by sbyder
The obvious has been pointed out before. But if you read the entire thread. You would have known that the temps have slowly been creeping up.
[Project] 'Bugger' - 1999 Toyota Hilux Turbo Ute - PB: [email protected] 1.857 60FT Video
[Project] 'Red Baron' - 1990 Toyota Celica GT-Four - PB: [email protected] 1.869 60Ft Video
Technical Articles Database 3S-GTE/ST185/Celica - BGB,EPC,Tech || 2RZ/3RZ/5VZ/Hilux - FSM
"ninja overheating"
So have you verified that your guage is accurate yet ?
If so and you suspect the thermostat location is a probable cause why don't you remove it altogether and see what effect that has.
Bookmarks