I'd suggest that you don't post the same thing in two sections, maybe ask the mods to remove one of them for you!
I have been thinking about this for a couple of weeks now, and i still can't make my mind up. I need some opinions.
I have a gze block 8,0:1 comp non oil squirter. I'm rebuilding it for turbo conversion. Its going to have acl bearings, arp head stud kit, arp rod bolts etc. TRD valve springs, 2mm copper head gasket, 267 degree cams, new genuine oil pump, and water pump, if im going to use the original rods, i am going top get them shot peened, and a balanced and linished crank. I'm also getting the block o' ringed . Theres nothing worng with the pistons in it now, but they're getting on now (20yrs old). For the piece of mind i was thinking of spending about $2000 on new brand name pistons and rods. Or should i buy a set of 8,9:1 20thou o/s forgies from Castle Hill toyota for $400? I know genuine toyota forgies can handle over 20 psi but when spending that much in the block, should i just go all out and do it properly 1st time, and save money/time in the long run?
I'd suggest that you don't post the same thing in two sections, maybe ask the mods to remove one of them for you!
i guess the question is.. why are you spending so much on the block?
going by your cam choice, you seem to be wanting power only at high rpm, so i assume you are going for 25-30psi? in that case, perhaps aftermarket lighter pistons would be a better choice in terms of efficiency than the stock GZE ones..
hmm, 8:1 pistons AND a thick headgasket? how low do you want your compression?
it all depends on if it is to be a dyno/drag queen, or a more drivable motor. (in terms of weight of the reciprocating parts)
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
A more drivable motor would be in mind maybe i'm going a little overboard with the block and cams, if i used my original pistons or (new 8:9 from toyota) new rings and bearings some heavy duty valve springs with bigport cams would it hold up to 20psi no worries?
I dont wanna go to the hassel of tearing down the block like i suggested above some time down the track it shit itself then have to get it pulled down again and then install some decent internals. i just want some good advice i don't wanna get slammed by everyone.
Last edited by pro-16t; 29-10-2006 at 12:36 PM.
it will probably hold IF, and only IF, you have good tuning....
30psi has had impressive results using stock gear (the bigger rods, and high comp pistons), and so have many others...
if you want it to be absolutely bullet proof, for higher boost later, then sure, why notbut not exactly cheap...
as for cams.. it all depends where you want your power band to be. stock cams or slightly bigger might be all you need for a sensible rpm range
have a search around for those running GTE's on here and ask their advice directly perhaps?
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
Everyone's opinion differs what people are basically saying is that standard gze pistons and rods will take just over 20psi with arp bolts metal shim head gasket etc thats for long term driving, but for out right hp 20-30psi brand name pistons,rods,full balance headwork etc i think i might stick to what i got then when she blows i'll go ballistic on a 20v turbo.
At the end of the day with constant driving on very high boost, it can and usually does make things go wrong. Im not saying you cant have a reliable car but a good tune and keeping a constant eye on everything thats wearing helps alot.
As OC said ask some people directly about what they have in their motor, where they got it from and what sort of times and power it makes. After a little while if you compare data received from others you will see a trend for the amount of power you may be looking for.
why do you want to run so much boost ????
What sort of power are you after and why ???
Factory internals are VERY good and have made me chuckle on numerous occasions as to just how much power they can handle
but like old corollas says a bad tune can and will break the very tuffest motors !!
When i finally get around to building my 650- 700 hp handgranade it will be using factory GZE pistons - im that confident of their strength .
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
cool sense of humor...Originally Posted by 30psi 4agte
insert witty post here, to allow people to see how funny and intelligent i am, and how much they would like to be like me.
Your listing a very expensive shopping list but not what you eventually want from the motor? I would first state what you want from the engine - then ask what other poeple have done to get that from theirs reliably.
I've made my mind up and went all out. I purchased a set of ACL o/s 8.5 comp forgies ACL race bearings ARP rod bolts etc. I feel better now.
HiOriginally Posted by pro-16t
what did the above parts cost you?
what are you going to be using the motor for?
sounds like a rock solid engine, now to choose a turbo, all out power, or a fat usable powerband
Dan
The spanner in my avatar is actually a 16mm, that's why it's still new
It cost about 1100 for all of the above through repco except arp.
It'll be for street use i've also got a Gt28 bb i know its a bit small but with the internals sorted out there's plenty more room for development maybe a gt30 somewhere down the line and some serious head work but for now i'll keep the boost reasonably low.
Bookmarks