Avante DISC conversion of RT104 (SPACER)

[RT104GT]

DISC Brake Conversion and Assembly RT104GT.




All the purist will say 'But it's not original."
I say, the r/s drum brakes on a 200 kph car are ludicrous and the profile of the non drum assembly given it is a drum with a disc rotor attached is not all that different or out of place. I mean four bolts and a backing plate is all that is required QED.
The average person would not be phased by seeing a four wheel disc brake Corona GT.

Not to mention the safety side of things.



Avante/Girloc Caliper mounting plate, fitted to Axle housing.

backing plate with metal splash shield removed for clarity and hand brake drum shoes shown with handbrake adjuster..

[joecoolmk2]

why'd you use tool steel? i used a bit of stainless, but you could've just used an ordinary bit of steel.

[RT104GT]

I bought the 45mm 1.25 pitch metric 10mm bolts but did not have to grind them as indicated. $3.25 each so yours were cheap!

Turn the bolts around and insert from the brake side. The small nuts fit on just fine and lock up well on the outside of the axle.

The large heads make for good support and you can tension them down to the correct tension.
No more rounding off of the crappy small headed brake nuts..

The right angle hose/brake line bracket from the Avante has two holes in it. I have reamed one out to 10mm and it fits under my stabiliser rod bracket mount you can see aboe the disc rotor.



DISC ROTOR/ BRAKE DRUM assembly of an Avante fitted to the rear live axle assembly of a 104.

So the final job is the steel backing plate and to get the Avante handbrake assembly and fit it to the Corona GT.

[RT104GT]

[QUOTE=GA61XX]

yes its a great idea.
I was just checking everything out to make sure it all fits.
Got me some 1098 pads and I have removed the backing plate from the Girlock Aluminium plate, cleaned and painted it. (Grrr using Australian bolt standards instead of Metric).


for the bolts i use Metric HIGH TENSILE 10mm fine thread x 45mm long, they cost $2.90 each, ( i know the price sux but i don't want my bolts to snap when i hit the brakes. ) But use the original nuts. the bolt heads need to be ground on one face to clear the housing. i will have photos of it all.

DONT GRIND THEM TURN THEM AROUND AND PUT NUT ON BACK, Its small and fits well.

[GA61XX]

Nice job on the brake upgrade .
looks like you do not need the rings now .
the reason i got the rings made was that i always replace the bearings when i build a diff for a customer.
the only time i split the ring is, 1:- customer is to cheep to replace bearings . 2:- customer is always breaking axles ( "T" diffs ), customer again to, cheep to buy a "F" or "G" diff that will not break axles .

the reasons i chooze not to spilt the ring & replace bearing is, 1:- that after time the ring may become week & collapse, allowing the bearing to be come loose & jam . 2:- it's hard to fit ring in when loose . 3:- after all that work & not to replace the bearings, is only asking for wheel bearing noise, & then having to do the job again.

the reasons i chooze to grind one face on the bolts is 1:- stops the head spining when doing nuts up, 2:- only need one spanner, 3:- if the bolts do become loose, the bolt has more distance to travle before falling out, ( that is if the Locktite & locknut fail ).

[RT104GT]

Nice job on the brake upgrade .
looks like you do not need the rings now .
the reason i got the rings made was that i always replace the bearings when i build a diff for a customer.
the only time i split the ring is, 1:- customer is to cheep to replace bearings . 2:- customer is always breaking axles ( "T" diffs ), customer again to, cheep to buy a "F" or "G" diff that will not break axles .

the reasons i chooze not to spilt the ring & replace bearing is, 1:- that after time the ring may become week & collapse, allowing the bearing to be come loose & jam . 2:- it's hard to fit ring in when loose . 3:- after all that work & not to replace the bearings, is only asking for wheel bearing noise, & then having to do the job again.

the reasons i chooze to grind one face on the bolts is 1:- stops the head spining when doing nuts up, 2:- only need one spanner, 3:- if the bolts do become loose, the bolt has more distance to travle before falling out, ( that is if the Locktite & locknut fail ).

I was able to mount the hose support plates under my anti-sway bar (only on a GT).


I used snap-rings as i didnt have to touch anything on the car and could revert back if it didnt work.
The snap-ring idea is used in gearboxes 2/3 circumeference provides 95% support.
We used tool steel/spring hardened and kept the slot to minimum (300 degrees) it snaps over the axle and fits in place really well.

Problems...

My main problem was wrecking the GT axles in the F series diff with large splines.
There are NO GT AXLES in Australia (Mark 2 does not work too long by 1/2 inch fouls centre.
cant machine the axle down not enough spline.

The GT axle were special for the LSD.
My bearings were fine and again series 2 bearings expensive and hard to source.

I will buy some rings off you for the future if you still want to send me 4.



Handbrake???

You said you used one side?

Which side?

I have measured them up and it will fit nice onto the Corona assembly, just have to take the tailshaft out so I can do it correctly.

My tailshaft is two piece and my handbrake systems is not like the Ausssie corona.

I bled the brakes today, best pedal I have ever had, rock hard showing how the drums make for a poor braking system overall.

Thanks for your help and ideas, without which I would never have reached this level.

The snap-rings I had made are 6.5 mm thick the bearing is firm in the housing and will not move.

It wont do much work is a CH car only.

The large headed bolts allowed me to torque them down really firm.


Not happy about rolling up the excess brake line,

My rear looks crappy and I am going to do it better.

Steve