replacing cam seals 1jz

[barned01]

Hi guys,
I am in the process of doing the 100k service on the soarer and i am up to putting it together (wow the water pump is a bitch!).
Anyway, i am up to replacing the cam seals.
currently the timing belt is off so this means i can't really turn the cam bolts in the top without turning the cam itself, but i assume i need to undo the bolt, take the cog off, take the cover off to get to the cam seals.
I did notice there was a bolt behind the cam gear that i thought i could remove, put in a longer bolt that fouls/stops the cam gear from spinning, and then removing the cam bolt.

Has anyone else replaced theirs? How did they do it?
cheers
Barnsey

[MR 1JZ]

I did mine when the motor was in a bagillion peices I belive to replace the seals you have to remove the cams entirely...when thinking about it I couldnt really see any other way to do it without having them out of ripping the new seals to shreds...

also dont forget to put a sealant on the curved bit of the seal before you put the replacement one in...otherwhise they will leak...and you will have to do it all again

[Dale]

You could use a rattlegun if you can get it in there or the engine is out of the car, or use the old belt to brace it off and put some pressure on it while giving it a sharp blow with a spanner or a decent sized bar.. usually that's enough to crack them for me.

[rob]

u dont need to take the cams out to replace the seals

dont worry if the cam turns a bit when u try to undo the pulley bolt, the cam gear has a locator dowel so u can just take the bolt out then return the cam to its original position (there will be a marker dot on the cam gear they will both be pointing up when engine is at top dead centre) then take the cam gear off

u get the seal out with a hooked scribe, pierce the centre of the seal and pull out trying NOT to to score any metal

and lastly u dont have to put sealant on the seal when u put it back in they can go in dry if your stuck for sealant

[MR 1JZ]

and lastly u dont have to put sealant on the seal when u put it back in they can go in dry if your stuck for sealant

wont they leak after a certain period of time though?

[Dale]

I thought they only leaked if they weren't tapped in far enough? Or became damaged.. non genuine seals are renoun for leaking too. Cam seals should usually be pretty safe though, crank seals are more likely to leak

[MR 1JZ]

or how about...

its a headfuck of a job to do again

just put some sealant in there

[Hybrid]

Exactly, its not like sealant is made from gold .. its cheap as shit to buy

[Dale]

Sounds like someone had to do the job twice once before

[barned01]

because the belt is currently off, if i turn the bolt the whole cam will turn.
I noticed there was a small bolt behind the cam that if i undid it and put in a longer one, it would then allow the cam gear to rest up against it as i tried to crank the nut.
BUT
If i dio it this way, the cam will turn about 30 degrees or so.
Will there be any danger of hitting pistons and other valves?

[rob]

nope its an non-interference engine turn away

[Dale]

They're not interference motors AFAIK, so no.

You just wrap the old belt around the cam so it's grabbing on the teeth and get someone to hold it, or hold it yourself.. that will stop the cam turning while you crack the bolt.. like I said before

[teamdrinkalot]

If you have a set of vernier calipers, check the outside diameter of the new seal and the old seal to make sure they are the same. I have a 2JZ and did the head up and replaced the seals only to have them leak oil as the new ones were 0.5mm smaller in diameter. I went to a bearing shop and found that they could not supply the correct size and it was not available. I did not have any time to spare and did not go back to Toyota so I put the old ones back in.

[mrshin]

You'll be right for valve clearance, but if you're worried turn the engine so that no piston is at TDC. A rattlegun gets the bolts off nice'n'easy.

[barned01]

i ended up putting a socket on the nut in the back and then let the gear hit the socket as i turned the engine.
Probably wouldn't reccommend it as it would apply a shearing force to the bolt....but the bolt did survive so no problem in the end i guess.

pictures to follow on the whole process soon.
thanks guys