removing the harmonic balancer on 1jz

**ReQuieM** · 15-10-2006, 06:49 PM

FYI (just in case you've never used a puller or only used it on other engines) Screw in the main big bolt into where the crank bolt came from. You don't need to go all the way in, in fact it's better if you dont. I've been told that over tightening it (screwed all the way in) could possibly damage the crank.

Screw it on enough that it will hold firmly, about 5+cm's. Screw the main 'puller' piece onto the main bolt that is now hangin out of the crank. Screw it on enough to have full thread contact, thats it, no more. Grab two long bolts, thread on washer. Thread through the top and bottom holes on the main puller (one at a time) then into the pully. There will be 4 holes. Two with thread, two with out. Best to test which before you get this far

and test which bolts fit the threaded holes (if you get a universal kit).

Basicaly all you do now is tighten each of the bolts in turn. Tighten top bolt, tighten bottom bolt, tighten top, tighten bottom, etc, etc. tightening the two bolts will pull the pully off. Whahlah, removed.

**Draven** · 15-10-2006, 07:11 PM

voila, but close

**ReQuieM** · 15-10-2006, 07:14 PM

Fine then, EUREKA!

**3sgte** · 16-10-2006, 12:21 AM

Originally Posted by barned01

are you sure about this 'park' thing, .

As mrshin mentioned, park will not prevent the engine from rotating on an AT car.

Park mechanically locks the tranny tailshaft. The transmission and torque converter have no fluid pressure, so they are not functional.