You'll need a puller, there should be a M8 hole in each side for the puller to attach to.
Hey guys, does anyone have any tips on how to remove the harmonic balancer on a 1jz.
I have removed the nut alright but i cant find a place to lever out the actual pulley.
What has everyone else done to remove their balancer?
cheers
Barnsey
You'll need a puller, there should be a M8 hole in each side for the puller to attach to.
Strange things are afoot at the circle K
Answered and answered
Also in another thread this had been covered in the last few months as well...there might have even been pics?...
Cheers
Wilbo
bought a pulley and it worked a treat
i found draven's thread on this...but it didn'treally say how to tighten it other than to put it in second (mine is an automatic) or take it to a machine shop.
is there a way i can tighten the crank bolt
Place it in "Park" and tighten accordingly.
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
yep, I put mine in second (put yours in park), attach breaker bar + extension, and pull really really hard. then when it's as tight as you can get it, grab a baby sledge and hit it really hard with that.
Worked a treat![]()
Always wondered about this.Originally Posted by YelloRolla
Just how strong is 'Park' ?
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
strong enough that a person could not brake it as but not using the hand brake while parked on a steap hill can, all park is, is a small peice of meatal that prevents drive gear to be operated. not very big or stong bout five mill in diameter.
sam
Turbo flutter. : Its like a burp and a hiccup at the same time.
I don't know, I've always driven real cars (read: manual)
If what sagluren says is correct, you may wat to skip the "breaker bay + baby sledge". second gear took it without complaining tho (and I imagine a rattle gun set to ~400nm would do the same)
or preferably a torque wrench set to the correct torque..... (140nm iirc for a 4ag)
Hang on a sec... how exactly is putting an auto in park going to make ANY difference???
Tighten it with a rattlegun.
Try 324 N.m / 3,300 kgf.cm / 239 ft.lbf on a 1JZ/2JZ...Originally Posted by TooF
GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
are you sure about this 'park' thing, i had the car in park the whole time i was doing the service and the last thing i did was try to tighten the nut but the engine kept turning over.
i then got my SO to try other various gears and brake applications but nothing seemed to stop the engine turning.
it is as tight as i can get it based on the accessories belt tension for the moment but i know that isn't enough. and those tourque values frighten me to even see if my torque wrench goes that far.
that just leaves the rattle gun...hmmm might need to borrow that from someone.
yeah, most torque wrenches don't do JZ crank pulley values... hence the rattle gun/sledge hammer option.
nfi on the auto thing - gladly ignorant![]()
my point still stands about using a torque wrench.... just means you need a big f-off torque wrenchOriginally Posted by manny
and yeah if thats the factory spec thats bloody tight.
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