CD player installation not working!! HELP!!

[NeoNasty]

Dubb: Yes personal experience. Everyday. 5 days a week. 9 to 5.

However it really depends on the fault. Usually if a unit is faulty within a week or so of buying it. the store will replace it on the spot. Unless it was installed by yourself. Then they will send it away for repair.

Usually the large companies are pretty good to deal with. However if you lie to them, or the unit returns with the same fault. wave goodbye to your warrantee. Oh another thing. If the unit IS faulty. Dont try and repair it yourself. You wont fix it, and then you'll get a fat fee for fixing your other faults.

Using a 9 volt battery is too powerfull and if you arnt careful, you can burn out the voice coils of the speakers.

I also have done many installs before, and I always disconnect the battery. Complete the power wiring, test the unit. Complete all the speaker wiring, test unit again. You just have to take your time and remember that, if you screw it up now. it will cost you later.

Burning wires? No thanks. I'll use heat shrink.
Battery shorting? Nah, I think I'll solder the wires for safety.

A lot of the time, its cheaper for you to pay someone $60 to install it, rather than pay $150 when you blow something up.

[o_man_ra23]

Solder wires?? Ive said it before and Ill say it again, I am personally against the use of solder on wires in cars, as the vibrations of driving work harden the solder and can easily cause dodgy connections and hard to find faults. I always use either screw terminals or crimp connectors (decent quality ones, and use a good crimper)

The burning wires I dont think was such an attack on the leccy tape (although also dodgy) but on the guage of wire used. Always go one or 2 sizes bigger on your cable than reccommended, makes for cleaner sound too. Never skimp on wires. And yeah, heatshrinking connections is good, especially when using crimp connectors... plus it looks a lot neater.

Another good tip is to never join 2 cables to make a longer one, always buy the right lenght cable, better to pay $2 more for too much cable than to have an extra point for faults to occur.

As for paying the $60 for a pro to do the job, make sure they really are a pro and not a backyarder with a $10 an hour after school job. No attacks on you Neo, but you can understand where Im coming from, im sure youve had to do repairs on other "professionals" work.

Cheers, Owen

[DoctorDubb]

Yeah dont worry, it wasnt my wiring that burnt up.. it was another 'professional' installation that had been done before. I thought, should be right and just cut and join into the power...dont worry learnt my lesson about 'professional' installations. And it was the tape that first burnt up.. it was the wire being of a rediculously small gauge (i dont know how the old stereo didnt manage to burn it up) which then burnt the tape.

Cheers for that info Neo. Nice to know that for future installations.

Yeah ive heard that too owen about the solder being not the best for car purposes, but have still soldered all my connections of all my installations and havent had any problems. But definately will consider that when i rewire my new project.

[o_man_ra23]

When I rewire the 23 the entire car will have new crimp joiners etc. Anything with a screw terminal will have crimps on the ends of the cables (especially stereo gear) so that I dont get split ends... just cant justify the cost of a bottle of pantene for wiring

The reason the tape burnt up is that the current flowing combined with the high resistance of the thin cable made the power losses high, and power losses are dissipated as heat. If you double the current through a wire, you quadrouple the power loss (current squared times resistance equals power loss)... so your old deck may have not been drawing enough current to heat it up too much. In summing up, if you double the current required, you need to quarter the resistance to keep the power loss the same. Good cable manufacturers should be able to provide the resistance figures. I might do up a thread with some generalised data for cable current capacities... just a pity everything in cars is done in AWG, and everything I have good detail for is in metric. But I can convert and interpolate.

Cheers, Owen

[DoctorDubb]

Thanks owen.. Nice to give everyone a electrical eng lesson (also nice to see someone else that knows of P=I^2 R). But dont worry im a 2nd year electrical eng student at uni (and by the looks of it, im guessing your along the same lines too?). I would be interested to see that table, yes ive noticed too that most wiring for cars is in AWG.

But back too the hand at topic here, have you solved your problem yet shiznit?

[NeoNasty]

HEH. I also know the forumlae.

advanced diploma elec enginering at Tafe. finished a few years ago. Been working in the industry ever since.

People say that solder isnt the greatest for the vibration = destruction theory. But I trust a good solder joint much more than crimping. I think its a personal thing. None of this damn Lead free crap either. I hate that stuff.

What model head unit was it D-shiznit? and Where did you buy it? Problem solved yet?

[Screamn_Sleeka]

With my Pinoneer head with 6x9's plugged in, no sound comes out, and i have to play with the settings to turn them on, need the manual cause the unit's language is weird. Sorry i cant word that better im too tried, but have u checked all the settings and what not...

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

solder in cars is fine aslong as the vibrations aren't directly transmitted to the join or the join isnt taking on a bit of weight. However I prefer crimping bullets for ease of removal

I've tested millions of speakers with 9v batteries and never had a problem with voicecoils popping or even getting remotely warm I just did a test now on a 4ohm car sub. Voltage dropped to 1.6 and current draw peaked at 0.5 amps. Not enough power to make a voicecoil shrug Just wanted to get that misconception out of the air! (I work as a electronics technician for a professional audio company)


So... is this headunit working yet?

[Cuzzo]

has there been one reply from the original poster?

[GtiRboy]

doesn't really look like it does it cuzzo maybe he hasn't even been online/read the thread or something

[Cuzzo]

Maybe hes off fixing it, or is on the run cause the deck blew up....JKS

[d-shiznit]

Hey!

Thanks for all the replies!!!
FIXED!!! It was the short circuit problem a few people mentioned Dodgy speaker wires going to the front right speaker!!
ALL GOOD NOW thanks heaps!!!

Didn't reply sooner because uni is a bitch
Thanks again Toymodders!

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

LOL! Ah glad to hear you got it sorted.