I know the four wires which go from the AFM to ECU (Vs, Vc, E1, Tha) but I cant work out which are Fc, E2 and Vb as these dont go to the ECU.
Is there anyone that knows which wires are which on the AFM pins???
are the AFM pins in the correct order in that diagram? i already had it but wasnt sure if they were in the correct order to the pings on the plug?
I know the four wires which go from the AFM to ECU (Vs, Vc, E1, Tha) but I cant work out which are Fc, E2 and Vb as these dont go to the ECU.
Is there anyone that knows which wires are which on the AFM pins???
Dont know if this will help you but on the 22r and camry the pinouts are all the same and they are E1-FC-E2-VB-VC-VS-THA in that order from left to right
Cheers
Dude!!!!!!! WTF did you do the loom? when i sold ya the motor all you need to do was wiring up a couple of pins to the computer and she would have run. Why did you cut the loom and add those connecting blocks??
The plug you didnt have with the ecu was for dash wiring and a couple of power wires for the ECU. You would have only needed wire those in to get it running.
For now forget the fuel pump relays running off the computer, just wire up seperate relays off an ignition feed to power the pumps. You can also do this with the Injectors aswell, they should only ground through the computer, the relay for those can also be powered from a relay run from an ignition source.
Personally i think you have jumped into the deep end with too little knowledge man, take it back to basics and only wire up bits you have to, so you can at least have it running first.
Hope you get it figured out man.
Matty
P.S. i would defiantly not reccomend trying to make a new loom if your having trouble with wot you have.
I dont know why you need to know where all your AFM wire etc go when the plugs for that were all in tact when you picked it up. Did you pull the loom apart???
Matty
Ive started making the new loom, its going fine. I know where the AFM wires go, but I cant work out which are the E2, Fc and Vb from the AFM, as these led to no where on both yours and norbies looms.
The loom that came with the motor was missing a plug like you said, but there was also several other wires that went to no where, as well as a whole heap of extra wires that wernt needed.
I may have jumped into the deep end, but im almost done making a new loom, and Ive got to start learning somewhere. I dont really have much of a chioce when Auto Electrics want $1-2k to rewire it.
1000 is cheep compaired to the problems your gona have down the track and the towing fees every time you break down.Originally Posted by Spectre
Obviously you have no idea what to do, take it to a profesional. The car will then be reliable and start first go.
cmon on cut him a break.
he's got the guts to take it on and save some dosh ... he obviously aint in a rush.
+rep for giving it a go instead of forking out to an over priced leccy.![]()
Ill be wiring my own 1ggte into Ra28 ... and im no leccy!![]()
Black Betty >HERE!<
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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination.
1k was the the lowest it could be, but they said more realistically near 2kOriginally Posted by bansheebuzz
If i break down, ill know where to look as id have done it all myself. You have to learn somewhere...
Don't do this, pump needs to be triggered through the AFM. Otherwise if you crash and the engine dies the fuel pump keeps pumping. I also had idling problems when my pump wasn't triggered from the AFM as the pump gets switched off while idling.Originally Posted by Wildsupra
Callum
dude how can the pump get switched off when idling?? the engine would stop man, it may slow down when idling like 3s's and 1J's and other motors do (i believe it is purely to keep the pump quiet) or it MAY pulse on and off, but i seriously doubt it ever stops completely, how does the rail maintain pressure if the pump is switched off?Originally Posted by WDE_BDY
Also i didnt say leave it connected without ECU input forever, i suggested he gets it running basically first. That way he can eliminate simple things like is the fuel pump running.
I've done many conversions and re wired standard and aftermarket computers and when i first started out, it was too hard trying to do everything perfectly straight out. Get the basics working and go from there..............at least until you get the swing of it.
Just my 2cents, but practice makes perfect, he needs to start with the basics and it would be a lot quicker and easier for him to learn and understand it.
Matty
I listened to my pump switch off at idle. Why would you want to do a half arsed initial wiring job when 2 minutes more would see it done properly?Originally Posted by Wildsupra
Callum
EFI????????Originally Posted by WDE_BDY
I rebuild 280Z dattos EFI since 1976.
The JDM' s the pump NEVER turns off.
There is no 3 second timer.
In Aussie models the pump runs for 3 seconds when the ignition key is turned on and then stops and will only run as soon as it gets the first ignition pulse.
Then if the ignition stops the pump stops.
REASON: If you are upside down in ditch trapped in the front in your JDM you will hear the pump wiring away and see the drip drip drip of fuel from the fractured fuel rail just before it goes BOOOMMM![]()
In the AUSIIE ADR models a requirement of all EFI is that the pump stops when the tachometric pulse stops, so if you run off the road and hit a fence and the engine stops, then just like in LPG systems the fuel stops, and NO BOOM BOOM.
Fuel pumps do not stop at idle and fuel does not stop when you throttle back.
HOWEVER:
On the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) the INJECTORS will cease if you back off to prevent BOOM BOOM (BACKFIRE) However if the injectors stop at idle the engine stops.
The EFI TIMING of a GTi suzuki as an example, is quite complicated and this maybe the case in some Toyota's which produce injector cycling to account for on demand power symetrical, asymterical, two up two down and all up all down depending on the conditions.
But you are talking about the 56 PSI fuel pump and it don't turn off except as I indicated baby unless you turn the ignition off.
Have you got a flow chart of your efi system? If not how do you intend to sort this out?
I have an ECU book from those days if it assists.
I built up an EFI system in a T18, as I said in 1984 on my Pat Malone with no assistance from anyone and it took months to get the 3TGTEU going.
This was the first 3TGTEU in Australia in 1984. And it aint easy .. Let me tell you.
I took it to RACV technical workshops and ND in Altona and Bosch.
They all told me GO AWAY.![]()
(Development was top secret).
Everyone was racing to get EFI going.
The sad thing was all those front cut celicas and Carinas with 18RGEU engines and injectors and NO COMPUTER.
People just wacked Webers on the GEUs and no one bothered to get the efi going.
So you could walka round Morrows in Footscraya nd buy 2TGEU 1GEU EFI computers for $20 each but NO 3TGTEU's.
I eventually got a 3TGTEU computer from API for $350.
I used to take spare computer along in the glove box to get home.![]()
4 years later Nissan brought out the Pintara with 2 spark plugs per cylinder and I asked myself why did I not wait.
Hindesite is a wonderful learning tool when everyone else has been there done that.
You are doing well.
Good Luck.
Last edited by RT104GT; 26-09-2006 at 07:34 AM.
1968 RT40S Corona 1600S series II (restore in progress)
1973 RT104-MQFG 012604 Corona GT JDM (Owned since 1976 242000 km)
1989 ST185-BLMVZ-0007199 Celica GT4 JDM (unmolested classic 95000 km)
2012 ZN-6 86GT (shed find 5000 km in 6 years)
My 18RGEU motor and EFI computer were all from an RA63 Celica, if you follow the wiring diagram you will see the trigger wire from the AFM to the fuel pump relay.
Callum
Ok alot of talk but no one seems to be able to answer my question about the AFM pins.
Is the order on the Wiring diagram correct in coresponding to the pinouts on the AFM. So is this right:
? I have 4 wires that im fairly sure about, but I have three that went nowhere on both looms that I had.
Cheers, Bryce
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