That'd be for a rebuilt engine to let it settle/adjust/wear in.Originally Posted by progkamol
I'm not sure, I know I hit the rev limiter within 5 minutes of getting my car driving![]()
That'd be for a rebuilt engine to let it settle/adjust/wear in.Originally Posted by progkamol
"Welcome the dude who ain't the buyer of mugs"
Craigy,
There's a ton of part numbers depending on oversize, or mark 1,2,3 (whatever that means.)
Anyway;
Late model AE92: 13101-16130-(01 or 02 or 03) or 13101-16131-(01 or 02 or 03)
Oversize .50: 13103-16130 or 13103-16131
AE101 GZE is 13101-16131-(01 or 02 or 03)
Oversize .50: 13103-16131 or 13103-16131
"Welcome the dude who ain't the buyer of mugs"
do you still use the pcv valve ?? could be gunked open and causing the engine to suck down oil.
What sort of breather setup do you have ??
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
you'd find that with seals gone on a turbo it'll blow smoke while idleing to, which i didn't see you had written down, as for the comp test, you doin it with the throttle wide open???
my gze read exactly the same on all cyl as yours does, and uses no oil, so i'd be pointing somewhere other than cyl damage, especially as it's only a 20psi variation.
you sure all your breather hoses and equip are installed correctly, oil return for turbo is feeding into sump above oil line, just that sorta stuff.
insert witty post here, to allow people to see how funny and intelligent i am, and how much they would like to be like me.
It's not turbo "bro"![]()
"Welcome the dude who ain't the buyer of mugs"
Thanks everyone for your reply's, i've cut and pasted your questions and written answers below:
How good is your compression gauge? I'd be less concerned about the actual readings, and only worry about the variation between cylinders, unless you trust the calibration of your gauge 100%.
My compression gauge is brand new, i havent had a chance to calibrate it correctly but as you say, the difference between cylinders should be the main concern.
The smoke white or grey under load?
Smoke is white/grey colour, its a little hard to tell whilst driving the car
much smoke on first start up of the morning?stem seals would be hard pressed using two litres of oil in a week.
Its blowing minimal amounts of smoke on startup, it really doesnt compare to the amount it blows under load
cant hear and rattle noise from cylinders?
There doesnt appear to be any unusual rattles coming from the engine bay. The car is pretty loud as it is, so its quite hard to hear small rattles etc.
was the plug from No3 oiled up?
I was dumb, i pulled all the plugs out without taking note of cylinder. I'll do another check tomorrow after a couple of days driving.
your dipstick being pushed up after driving?
Dipstick is staying in place.
is there much blowbly out of the dipstick tube when free reved?
Yes, oil is splasing up the dipstick after a drive.
When doing a compression test if you haven't disconnected your fuel pump will the fuel increase compression that has been fired into the cylinders?
I locked out my ECU whilst testing compression and dis-allowed fuel and spark.
Also are you sure its oil smoke that you are blowing on boost? That map pours out plenty of chuff when you plant the foot, especially if the changes for the bigger injectors have been made conservatively.
This chuff you speak of Hen, i assume you are talking excess fuel? Should be black smoke, yeah?
Also remember I'm running the larger pulley (thanks to you), running 12-14 psi so its probably burning the excess fuel.
Do you still use the pcv valve ?? could be gunked open and causing the engine to suck down oil.
PCV valve? I should know what that is....assuming something to do with vacuum/ crank venting system
What sort of breather setup do you have ??
I'm using a small catch can, fed from the rocker cover through the can and back into the intake (have run disconnected to check for blockages)
4AGZE powered AE86
SR5 dual cab Hilux
265 powered VJ Valiant Charger
Originally Posted by 1JZ-Rolla
Thats what i was told... you should be more concerned with the evenness of the readings.
Maybe you should get a leak-down test... if its done by a good operator it will show exactly which part of the engine is causing any loss of compression...
a stock engine with standard pistons and rings shouldnt show more than 8-10% leakage unless there is a problem
cheers
Daniel
-4AGE 2oV supercharged sprinter running 12.8 quarter miles (blown engine)
-SR20DET trueno hoping for 11.5 quarter miles (smashed front and rear... dont lend cars to mates)
-4AGE silvertop 20V sprinter 114rwkw NA power and trueno front end
-Project F20C coming soon...ish
Craigy, you wanna test the compression on my MAP gze and compare?
"Welcome the dude who ain't the buyer of mugs"
You are running it back to the original (pre throttle body) position I assume?Originally Posted by craigy
I hope so! Otherwise he may be pressurising the crankcaseOriginally Posted by Ben Wilson
... and sorry about thinking this was a turbo engine, i dont know where i picked that up from.
...... butt scratcher?!
i just bought a gze and thought i would compression test it before doing anythin else.
I checked my compression using a new compression gauge and it comes up as follows:
cylinder 1: 200psi
cylinder 2: 210psi
cylinder 3: 195psi
cylinder 4: 210psi
The engine is an ae92 afm with dli
Will these readings be suffice or would i be heading into problems further down the track?
I dont entirely trust the accuracy of the gauge either....
Bookmarks