stock fwd beams 3sge dyno results

**Roman** · 05-11-2006, 05:55 PM

Originally Posted by kanazai2001

Rom,
im having a red beams in my FF silly kar, im curious to know how to convert it MAF to MAP without change the ori ECU...
you have mentioned that your red beams was converted to MAP, may i know was it using the ori ECU with MAP or aftermarket ECU with MAP before you convert it back to MAF?!

It used an HKS piggy back computer do do it, basically it runs the AFM and MAP sensor at the same time, logs what voltage is output by both at certain engine loads/rpm etc, and then it gets the map sensor to output the voltage that the MAF sensor WOULD do, if it were still connected. (As after it's done it's thing, you can disconnect MAF sensor)

However, this is undoubtably what caused this:

So I wouldnt reccomend it, hahaha.

It's had a full rebuild since then obviously, haha.

**urantia** · 05-11-2006, 08:27 PM

Roman, Is that the same dyno as the other dyno chart? i'd try another dyno. Just looks wrong! altho nice power! 450nm of torque if i'm reading that correctly

(the 124rwkw is impressive for real)

**Jorrs** · 05-11-2006, 08:33 PM

wow thats my torque then my GTE made

**Roman** · 05-11-2006, 08:46 PM

I dont think that the ATW torque is comparable to other dynos, as it is the torque applied to the rollers, which is then multiplied by the rpm of the rollers to get the HP figure.

(I always wondered how they could work out the HP, without knowing engine RPM or wheel rpm speed!)

For example, if my 124kw (~166hpATW) was made at 7000 rpm at the engine, I'd have 124 ft lbs of torque being produced by the engine (Still at the wheels though!) at that RPM.
Peak torque figure would be more than that obviously, but not by a huge amount, I definitely wouldnt be making 600nm or something, hahaha.

As obviously the torque gets multiplied based on the gear ratios and final drive ratios.

And yeah remember it's a fairly fresh engine, it's only done ~40,000kms at most by now.
I dont think ~160 - ~170hp at the wheels is completely out of the question, 160hp would mean a 20% drive train loss for a 200hp engine.

But yeah, hopefully I'll see a few more KW with a revised exhaust system and the factory airbox or airflow meter housing.

**Roman** · 05-11-2006, 08:54 PM

Originally Posted by urantia

Roman, Is that the same dyno as the other dyno chart? i'd try another dyno. Just looks wrong!

Yep, it's exactly the same dyno as where my first run was taken; my first run is overlayed onto the second sheet, it's the blue line, red line is the second run.

altho nice power! 450nm of torque if i'm reading that correctly

(the 124rwkw is impressive for real)

Nope you're not reading it properly.

Well the 124kw is right, but the torque figures are rubbish basically.

**kanazai2001** · 06-11-2006, 01:31 AM

Originally Posted by Roman

It used an HKS piggy back computer do do it, basically it runs the AFM and MAP sensor at the same time, logs what voltage is output by both at certain engine loads/rpm etc, and then it gets the map sensor to output the voltage that the MAF sensor WOULD do, if it were still connected. (As after it's done it's thing, you can disconnect MAF sensor)

However, this is undoubtably what caused this:

So I wouldnt reccomend it, hahaha.

It's had a full rebuild since then obviously, haha.

hmmm... then i have to forget bout to change the MAF to MAP...
but anyhow i need to change my MAF cause it is not really functioning well...

**WaynO** · 29-11-2006, 12:52 AM

Hey its great to find more people in OZ with the BEAMS... sorry to pull it back to the top again!

I see Roman has made it in here to, hey buddy hows things!

I've been playing with my BEAMS for sometime now and been trying all sorts of different combinations. The biggest gain I found is when I upgraded my stock 5SFE fuel pump with 255 one and upgraded my air intake with a custom stainless piece running into a box. I found I had alot of hot air under the hood once the car warmed up and this hot air was getting sucked into the motor which it didnt like one little bit. Cold feed is the way to go!!

Ive recently upgraded to a Carbon Fibre Hood with vents and this also sucked alot of hot air out from under the hood but have yet to re-run the dyno yet due to interior ripped out while I work on its makeover. Ill have my own thread up on here shortly about its progress so you can keep track if you like!

Keep on the good work guys!!

Cheers
Wayne

**kanazai2001** · 29-11-2006, 01:53 AM

rom... i think u can go for dry sump setting instead of looking for "other" parts... im not free to do anything bout my engin at least for 2 months coz my project is on going... the detail of dry sump is here...