I've made a few sets from aluminium
hey guys,
just need to know what material is best to use when making roll center adjusters?
after no success in finding MX73 RCAs, iv decided im going to make my own set...
all help appreciated
cheers
I've made a few sets from aluminium
billet aluminium
Yes great guys, prob better to tell him which T series alloy to use!
pm sent.
rep for all for the info guys... oh and kingmic's PM states to use T7 alloy... just so if anyone else ever searches and sees this thread they know
cheers
In my opinion, as long as there is a locating sleeve which fits into the bottom of the strut around the bolt threads then an RCA will be under very little load. If the strut bolts are done up properly then the RCA is mainly under compression and any grade of alloy should be able to cope with that. Cornering forces must also be transmitted, however I doubt these will be problematic for such a large chunk of alloy.
Yes, T7 is top shelf, and a good idea if its available, but I think lower grades would suffice.
Hen
while we are at it....
the car is lowered 2".... does that mean i have to get 50mm RCAs?
how do you work out the thickness of the RCA required? is there like a formula or percentage rate?
cheers
you need to understand why the RCA is required in the first place to determine how thick it needs to be.
i understand why it is needed. in a nut shell
lowered car... lower control arm off from factory specs (angle), steering off as well and the front designed roll is off... RCA will return control arm and steering components back to factory specs which in turn returns all roll and steering geometry back to normal...
problem is that all my steering and suspension parts are off the car, in pieces and nothing assembled... thats why i ask, this way i can get them made and have everything put back together in one go rather than put it all together, measure it up, find the factory specs and then get the RCAs made and start pulling part of the suspension apart to get the RCAs in
i know its not the biggest headache to get everything in and then unbolt the strut to fit the RCA, but its a headache i dont need especially since everything is in pieces anyway...
cheers
Make sure you use decent bolts of the correct length, not just any old crap from the hardware store!
as for alloys... please use this reference.. there is a common misconception that the higher the series, the better it is... not exactly true![]()
series = major alloying element.
http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=310
ideally, you want something medium to high strength (in heat treated) and don't need weldability..
you could make it out of mild steel too![]()
as Mr shin said, bolts are far more important.. (considering the abuse they will get with road vibration and potholes etc)
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
Yes you can use t6 HEN,but i told him how to get t7{with the right heat treat,lol or should i code it} for about the same money, as some places have great scrap bins with nice blocks for cheap prices
this should help you Fade! http://www.technotoytuning.com/products/ncrca.html
and the main thing beside good bolts is to spread the load of the bolt head as its stong steel on alloy![]()
Except the bolt head isn't on the alloy, it's on the underside of the steel/cast iron? steering arm.Originally Posted by kingmick
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yes that helps to! hahahaha
i wanna live near one of those placesOriginally Posted by kingmick
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"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
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