Car cutting out when thermo kicks in

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The IGN feed wire wouldnt be much more than 30A, so he wouldnt have needed to fuse it there due to little change in max current draw. However, definately fuse them off the battery.
Infact, buy one of these: http://www.narva.com.au/Fuses_Boxes.html and use that. I have a little 4 block in my car. easy as to fab up a little plate to mount it off. I just mount my plate off the battery hold down strap using a piece of 2mm alloy.

Thats a good idea, thanks takai. What kind of fuses would i be using? 30A each (pumps + fan)

[takai]

Yeah about that, bit more bit less. Probably try 25A to start with.

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Just for everyone elses information.

I added some more fuel in when the thermo cuts in, 0.30ms Which seems to have solved the stalling for now.

I also noticed my alternator is slipping, so ill tighten that as well.

Aside from that, ill re-wire the battery feed for the fuel pump and fan relays to come straight off the starter. Only 2 wires, coupla fuses, and crimps. Too easy.

Thanks all for the input.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

on that token, a lot of cars shake to the shithouse when the thermo comes on, if its of decent size, they draw too much current and the engine almost stalls. I had to up the idle RPM on my 302 because the fans suck so much power....

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on that token, a lot of cars shake to the shithouse when the thermo comes on, if its of decent size, they draw too much current and the engine almost stalls. I had to up the idle RPM on my 302 because the fans suck so much power....

Yeah, the fan on my car is an easy 14" (i havn't measured, but it takes up the whole thing)

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Yeah, the fan on my car is an easy 14" (i havn't measured, but it takes up the whole thing)

up your idle and see if that helps...only 1-200rpm tho

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up your idle and see if that helps...only 1-200rpm tho

I already have my idle at 1300rpm (my rev limiter is at 6000rpm). Which covers most of the bad tune problems.

I'll see if re-wiring it helps. Before i had the autoelec touch it, it ran fine, so i hope that moving the wiring around will help.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

I already have my idle at 1300rpm (my rev limiter is at 6000rpm). Which covers most of the bad tune problems.

I'll see if re-wiring it helps. Before i had the autoelec touch it, it ran fine, so i hope that moving the wiring around will help.

yeah in that case fic your wiring, 1300 is well enough lol. Or a worthy test is, when the thermo kicks in, check your voltage accross the battery....

[takai]

It should do, one thing i noticed with the Microtech when i had it is that it wouldnt operate below about 9v. Bit strange, but probably slightly more suscepible to current drops. The haltech i have now will operate at about 7-8v but not like it much.

yeah in that case fic your wiring, 1300 is well enough lol. Or a worthy test is, when the thermo kicks in, check your voltage accross the battery....

Voltage across battery doesnt matter. We established that on the first page, the thermos are being driven off teh IGN wire, along with the fuel pumps and ECU.

[Mos]

Whoever wired it up was a real master.

I've had two 14" thermos do nothing at all to the idle on switch on.
A couple of simple points to remember - thick wires carry high currents, so should be the shortest length practical. Thin wires generally carry small currents and therefore can usually be extended without concern.

The ignition switch supply (AM1 and AM2, various colours - w, w-r, b-r, etc) is usually fused with 30 or 40A. This is all cabled up with thick conductors.

Please realise that it is NOT appropriate to connect a relay coil wire directly to the ignition switch output wires (eg IG1, IG2, B-Y or B-O), even though they have the right function and colours. Any such connections need to be fused as well.

If you look at any toyota wiring diagram you will see that any igntion outputs that supply small currents (eg to turn on other relays) always will have a lower amperage fuse on them, like 10 or 7.5A. This is because the wire to the relay is thin and cannot carry the 30 or 40A that is required to blow the AM1 or AM2 fuse - meaning that if you have a short somewhere in your thin wire between the ignition switch and the relay, you will probably have a fire, whereas a 7.5A fuse will blow without further damage.

You may also notice an STA fuse in some vehicles (fitted with factory starter relays and low current starter signal requirements) which is fused for exactly this reason.

As many have already said, using the AM1 or AM2 conductor to supply everything in a conversion is just pure genius. These conductors usually do a happy lap of the engine bay to reach the engine bay fusebox - so you have an extra 3M of cabling that will happily give you disabling voltage drops.

Mos.

[BeRad]

dont worry about it richard im sure you have enough revs whilst giving it curry down the track surely this thing cant be driven on the street haha

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thanks mos for reaffirming that, i'm giving the fan and pumps there own lines from the battery tommorrow. Should be sweet after that.

Berad: heh... you'd think so wouldn't ya

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I rewired it all today (pumps and fan) and tightened up my alternator. The problem has gone away.

Thanks all.

[takai]

Well done. Now make sure that they are fused appropriately.

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Well done. Now make sure that they are fused appropriately.

Done and done.