haltech map for 4 cyl

**Grega** · 10-08-2006, 04:14 PM

IIRC the haltech uses an "accelerator pump" setting for enrichment (its been a while now) i remember working with this quite a bit to get my old VN V6 working correctly. that would falter and splutter alot until that was sorted out once done was very good.

**Grega** · 10-08-2006, 04:28 PM

i found my old maps too if they help. theres a 4 cylinder 4AGTE one in there which may be of use to you as well.
http://users.bigpond.net.au/ta22/images/maps.zip

**BeRad** · 10-08-2006, 04:37 PM

i just got it running again just then pulled the m/s down to 2.1 and still smokey as pull it down any lower and it starts to knock a bit... so haha its all fun n games

ive pulled the fuel down around it and it revs beter now, but even still it stalls when it gets hot with the temp sensor in it stalls without it it will idle..... if i plug the sensor in when its hot it stalls, and dont wanna start again.. ive pulled the temp compensation down so im out of ideas

ok thanks grega its all a learning curve ill get there one day haha

**thechuckster** · 10-08-2006, 05:27 PM

i know it's not the same ECU <www.msefi.com>

but the principles still apply...

this is the order you want to follow
- get the car to idle at stoich (warm) - narrow band O2 is OK for this
- get the car to hold revs at various map points with no load at stoich - narrow band O2 is also OK for this
- then start on areas of load and decel - seat of the pants, logging and analysis will be important
- then (and only then) look at accel enrichments, decel fuel cut, boost control etc.

but.. .if you're running out of ideas - take it to a tuner.

btw: when you get the car back, get a copy of the config and map from the ECU so you can go back to a stable setup if you stuff it.

edit: links to tuning advice/process:
version 2 hardware - http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtune.htm
version 3 hardware http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/tune.htm

ta,
charles.

**BeRad** · 10-08-2006, 05:53 PM

ok thanks heaps for that, i have it idleing and reving up to 2000rpm stabley just way to much fuel and ive pulled it down to 2.3ms at 2000rpm but as grega said it has other options that control fuel also that ive read about ill have to read the other 1000000 pages in the manual

i think ill bite the bullet and buy a proper o2 and controller will make life easier in the long run...because i want to have a crack at tuning etc. if i cant work it out ill take it to a shop and learn from what theyve done...

thanks heaps once again

**stradlater** · 10-08-2006, 07:12 PM

to tune it properly mate, your gonna need a dyno.. :-)
Sorry to burst your bubble.

**BeRad** · 10-08-2006, 07:23 PM

yes im realising this

haha might just send it there as much as i dont want to i think it will save me some money in the long run haha..

**stradlater** · 10-08-2006, 09:18 PM

Depends on what you want to achieve.

I've just blown a HUGE amount of money trying to get a line locker working. It in the long run would have been much easier to take it to a brake shop to get it done.

But I was a) stubborn b) stupid and c) wanted it done my way

**chris davey** · 11-08-2006, 08:57 AM

I have done a fair amount of street tuning. It is going well so far but I will be taking it on the dyno to fine tune.

Having a wideband has helped me a lot though in diagnosing problems. Even if you send it to get dyno tuned a wideband is a very handy tool to have in the long run