haltech map for 4 cyl

[BeRad]

hi, the time has come to try and get some sought of map on it so i can atleast get it idleing, but haltech strongly recomends that i take it to a shop. id like to have a go my self cant learn if someone else does it.

so im after a haltech ex6 map for the biggest 4cylinder you's have, not after the settings so much as i belive i have them right. ]

the engine is a 3rzfe
2.7l 4 banger for interests sake.

so if anyone can email me a map just let me know on here and ill give u an address to email it to thanks


so just anything i can work from would be good thanks

[Norbie]

I have a map for an 18R-G (2 litre), but that's probably no help to you. Methinks finding a map for any 4-banger larger than 2 litres won't be easy - think about it, how many 4cyl engines are anywhere near the size of a 3RZ? 22R, Astron 2.6... can't think of much else. And I doubt you'd find many of them with Haltechs installed.

Have you tried contacting Haltech? They might have something suitable.

[BeRad]

yer ive tried haltech all they can say is take it to a shop to get it running

but i prooved them wrong i got it idleing just before very impressed with my self haha but it stalled once it got to 70 degrees and wont start again i tried pulling compensation out for temp btu still no go so ill let it cool down and check a few things as its heating up if it starts again.

i wouldnt mind havign a look at the maps from ur car if thats ok norbie just to see how yours is might even learn something from it

thanks

the car smokes its tits off id say its just way to rich though, but it wont run with the coolant temp sensor connectd ive bought all compensation down to 0 and still if i connect it it stalls. any ideas ?

[chris davey]

that is weird?

Once you have sorted the issues of it actually running then you should be able to make a map from scratch easy enough.

If you email me at [email protected], I can send you some info. I have on the tune on my 1jz. 2.5L 6 but just to get an idea. Start rich and slowly lean it out. Start with a very conservative timing map. Once AFR's are looking ok, then look at timing. I am running octane booster for an extra safety margin.

[barned01]

again i don't know if it is any help at all but i have a map for an 18rgeu using a haltech F7MAP.
PM if you are interested in it.

I do highly recommend the shop approach though because if you used one of these maps from here, then you find the engine runs, then you find the rod sticking perpendicular to the engine block with a big hole in the side of the block to allow for the said perpendicularness, then you only have yourself to blame for not actually getting it tuned properly...ie. don't come after us.

[BeRad]

i realise that but with the appropriate sensors etc and allow a bit for error i dont see it being to much of a problem and if it is i have noone else to blaim but i see no other way of learning...

i choose not to be one that spends 20k on mods and only gets 10k worth because the shop has reamed you for labour...

[Grega]

whats your email addy i've got one from a 4agte running a haltech IG5 from a long time ago. ignition only no fuel... PM me...

[chris davey]

i realise that but with the appropriate sensors etc and allow a bit for error i dont see it being to much of a problem and if it is i have noone else to blaim but i see no other way of learning...

i choose not to be one that spends 20k on mods and only gets 10k worth because the shop has reamed you for labour...

I like that attitude.

Having said that, I have booked my car in for a dyno tune to fine tune what I have done on the street so far.

[BeRad]

so went to buy the haltech o2 sensor and controller didnt i get a fright haha 650 bucks for the kit, controller , guage and sensor, so rang haltech and apparently a vn - vs bosch o2 is the go, 4wire etc simple wire in just needs to be calibrated different so ill have a crack at that saves me 520 bucks

[chris davey]

I seem to remember reading that Haltech use a rebadged Innovative wideband o2 kit.

My techedge was about $480 or something. They aren't cheap but definitely worth it!

[thechuckster]

the bosch 4 wire sensor is narrow band sensor - it's not going to tell you a lot except for when it is:
-stoich
-rich (or getting richer)
-lean (or getting leaner)
-not working at all (open circuit or fused)

If you want a wideband sensor, then Innovative seems to be quite popular - you can also order them from the States from these (and many more):
http://www.diyautotune.com/
http://www.rs-autosport.com/
http://home.earthlink.net/~beanbooge...t_engineering/
(these folk distribute megasquirt hardware)

[BeRad]

wel thats a fair kick in the pants, bunch of deadshits i specificaly asked if it was a wideband both the guy who i purchased the sensor and autobarn.
the rep for haltech also suggested this sensor if i wasnt going to buy the haltech kit.

either way can this sensor be used to run closed loop etc. im more interested in tuning it and this one just wont cut it , might have to bite the bulet and buy the kit, same price as inovate basicly by the time u convert it and pay shipping

[Grega]

dude there is some good info here on wideband o2 stuff.
http://www.wbo2.com/
tells u the sort of sensors to look out for too...

[stradlater]

Yeah, no good getting yourself a narrow band one.

I have plenty of info on how to set the ignition side of it, with the same info as grega basically, an IG5 running a 1g-gte 2L 6cyl.

But shouldn't it just be a case of changing your injection levels (I don't know what it's called in EFI) as your revs increase? I mean if you want to be really static to begin with, just stick yourself on 10~12 degrees timing across the range, it'll be FLAT as a tac, but it'll rev atleast.

Why don't you just lean out your mixtures? I'd imagine that's where your smoke is coming from, and it'd also be the problem when it get's hot.

Think about what a carby does to start a cold car. Gives it less air. So, when the car is cold, too much fuel is a good idea. But when it get's hot, it'll kill it. So just lower your injector pulses (if that's what they're called).

The wide band lambda sensor will help, but to start with it's probably only going to tell you what you already know. You've got it wrong.

Also, check your ignition inputs. I had hells own job getting that right on my car.

[BeRad]

yer ive set ignition to 10 just to get it running, id say ive fouled the plugs having it so rich ill have another play tomorow arvo when i have a bit more time...