having problems winding boost over 15psi

[JustCallMeOrlando]

The Gizzmo was more aggressive in how it held boost based on how high the gain setting was. Turbosmart took a different approach though, they realised that there is only so much you can do with that way so they provide a correction feature to explicitly control the drop-off.

Increasing the sensitivity on the eBoost2 will also make the controller work a little harder to stop boost tailing off. I haven't played with this fully though, because without logging, it's hard to see what little stutters etc. are being made by me playing with the eBoost2, or the ECU

[Mr DOHC]

its my mates old controller, he said dont bother playing with the gating part of it, the boost just spikes masively, so i tried it, and it DOES spike massively

[brett_celicacoupe]

try the turbotech boost controllers.... they use a ball bearing and spring to control the boost. they are on ebay often for about $30.

its what i have...i find it hardly spikes at all on 15psi

[YLD-16L]

...i find it hardly spikes at all on 15psi

How many psi is the spike? Does it spike if you bring it on boost under load from say 1500rpm? What does it spike like if you bring it from vaccuum to boost (WOT) at over 4500rpm (usually the worst scenario for spiking)??

I have always been interested in trying that style of boost control but I fear that on my car the spike would be too great to live with.

There are a few of those turbo tech controllers on ebay now for $35 I think. They seem to get good reviews by people but I havent seen any feedback from anyone running around 20psi yet with one - most are just running a little over stock boost.

[monkeymajik]

I have a turbotech one. great for the money but...
Mine spikes 1-2psi at a 13psi setting

[YLD-16L]

I have a turbotech one. great for the money but...
Mine spikes 1-2psi at a 13psi setting

Interesting. What length approximately would the line be from your boost reference point to the controller to the wategate?

[monkeymajik]

My boost gauge is plumbed in at the manifold (though it is on the same line as the BOV which some say is not always a good idea).

The length of vac line from actuator to boost controller to compressor is <15cm

[YLD-16L]

The length of vac line from actuator to boost controller to compressor is <15cm

That's quite good it shouldn't be contributing to spiking much at all.

The boost gauge/BOV on the same line won't cause too much trouble, you probably wouldn't notice the slight fluctuations that may occur in the readings anyway.

[brett_celicacoupe]

How many psi is the spike? Does it spike if you bring it on boost under load from say 1500rpm?

about 0.5psi for this scenario

What does it spike like if you bring it from vaccuum to boost (WOT) at over 4500rpm (usually the worst scenario for spiking)??

about 1psi for this scenario

I have always been interested in trying that style of boost control but I fear that on my car the spike would be too great to live with.

There are a few of those turbo tech controllers on ebay now for $35 I think. They seem to get good reviews by people but I havent seen any feedback from anyone running around 20psi yet with one - most are just running a little over stock boost.

im only running ~14psi (max) at the moment but it seems to only spike about 0.5-1psi.

i am running reasonably long hoses to each wastegate too. the siamese turbos means the watstegate actuators at at each end of the motor

[monkeymajik]

What do people think about the greddy profec-B specII?

[Forcefed6]

What do people think about the greddy profec-B specII?

I am using a Profec B Spec 2, and find it great... but it does take abit to get it to work right. The original Profec B and the current Profec B Spec S are a much simpler unit to operate and more user friendly..

All of the above when setup correctly, will hold boost to redline.