MA61 Superpro trailing arm bushes with rear camber modifications

[RyleyMA61]

Another one for you Peewee -

The camber brackets - are they better welded as high or as low as possible on the crossmember, in order to get maximum adjustment?

Thanks mate.

[CELICASUPRA7M]

lower Ryley, your trying to get the outer pivots of the control arm closer to the ground to make the tyre stand up straight.
If that makes any sense at all haha.

[RyleyMA61]

I have two crossmembers, so might have a crack at setting them as low as possible.... I reckon there's nearly 5 degrees on the rears at the moment, it looks stupid.

[patrickleslie]

I reckon there's nearly 5 degrees on the rears at the moment, it looks stupid.

[RyleyMA61]

Hahaha, good juan. I'm not into the JDM-camber look that much... not with 7.5" wheels anyway. I'd prefer less camber and more grip.

Peewee, I noticed your brackets actually sit really low on the crossmember- not in the original bracket position

How much lower is the bottom of the bracket than the bottom of the crossmember, if that makes sense?

[CrUZida]

Couldn't give you an exact measurement, but its about 10mm

[RyleyMA61]

thankyou sir. might do something similar to get max adjustment.

[RyleyMA61]

Anyone else used the energy suspension bushes?

Did you use the stock crush tubes from the stock bushes, or did you get new ones made up?

Original crush tubes seem like a really shit fit - big air gap, lots of slop, do not want?

[RyleyMA61]

Got new ones made up, the old bushes were 16-17mm OD, 14mm ID, with flanged ends of 24mm OD. The bushing ID is approx 24mm. Therefore, using the old bushes, you have a massive gap along the inside of the tube using the energy suspension bushes.

New crush tubes are 70mm long, 24mm+0.3mm OD, 14.2mm ID. Work perfectly. Bushes require pressing now (like they should) rather than hand assembly, and therefore a shit-tonne of slop.

For reference... Because it sucks searching for tech threads and there's no answers to the problems.