Triggering COR from FPC output of newer ECUs

[auto351]

we actually picked this as a signal converter, but it has a 5V relay and the back EMF spikes were not high as to trigger the Taco. it only has a small signal transistor rated at 100ma so you can not run a large relay.
To get this to work you will need to change the transistor add a diode to R3 and wire the diode to the signal terminal (then the B+ becomes the new signal terminal) and use this to drive an external relay




We found the signal from our engine was fine to connect direct with no converter

but the optically isolated unit may work without mods?

[auto351]

Hi,

I have just finished my Fuel pump relay made from the Jaycar Kit KC5434 under $20.00 and less that 1hour to build.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...4&form=KEYWORD



I changed two components as Willbo's CCT to widen the operating duty cycle,

With the original transistor & link on.
Input 5V @1Khz Min operating Duty Cycle (DC) >10%

With 2N7000 MFET & link on.
Input 3V @ 1Khz Min operation Duty Cycle (DC) >1.5%
Input 5V @ 1Khz Min operation Duty Cycle (DC) >0.5%


EDIT::
WE will be fitting this next week so I will mesure the duty Cycle and frequency, from what I have read 100% DC = High speed & 50% DC = Low speed, if this is the case then the kit with no Mod will be fine.

We will also look at the DI and see if we can get this to operator, this could be current based and if the fuel pump draw to much or to little current the DI = 0V and brings up error code 78 ?

[Shakotan_Aaron]

The person you spoke to at jaycar is an idiot? lol

R1 1kΩ Resistor: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RR0572
C1 1uF Capacitor: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RZ6627
R2 1MΩ Resistor: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RR0644
D1 Zener Diode: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1416
Q1 MOSFET Transistor: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2400



And you prbly want some of this to make it on like Takai did...
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP9540

See, easy!

I'll assume you can find a relay

Cheers
Wilbo

Just ordered these parts and a case

Thanks

[The Witzl]

so this is for toyota engines that have that variable fuel pump control bullshit isnt it?

[auto351]

so this is for toyota engines that have that variable fuel pump control bullshit isnt it?

Ya, But these circuits only provide a single speed control.

[Shakotan_Aaron]

interesting, i was browsing the other junk on jaycar

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...T&SUBCATID=347

the suggestions listed included include triggering a extra fuel pump at WOT. Thats not such a bad idea.

[auto351]

Here is the completed Fuel Pump relay.


Made up from the following parts Available from Jaycar
DC Relay Switch Kit
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5434
Price $16.95

1M 1/2Watt Resistor
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RR0644
Price $0.45

2N7000 N-Channel FET
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2400
Price $1.45

6 way Bullet Moulded Plug – Socket
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2400
Price $11.95

Jiffy Box - Black - 83 x 54 x 31mm - Bulkhead - UB5
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2400
Price $4.95

Totalling about $36.00


There are 3 Modification which need to be done to the Main Board
1) Replace Q1 BC549 with the 2N7000 (the BC549 is pictured in red not the 2N7000)
Please note BC549 foot print is reversed to the 2N7000, rotate the 2N7000 180 degrees before fitting (see foot print diagram below)





2) Replace the 10K with the 1M resistor

3) Place a bridging wire from the power 0V to the Signal 0V as per the Picture & Diagram


This is the color coding we used


EDIT:
The output frequency of the ECU was mesured at 160Hz (JZS147)

[Shakotan_Aaron]

The person you spoke to at jaycar is an idiot? lol

R1 1kΩ Resistor: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RR0572
C1 1uF Capacitor: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RZ6627
R2 1MΩ Resistor: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RR0644
D1 Zener Diode: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1416
Q1 MOSFET Transistor: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2400



And you prbly want some of this to make it on like Takai did...
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP9540

See, easy!

I'll assume you can find a relay

Cheers
Wilbo

okay, so i ordered these bit and have them here in front of me now.

now for construction.... i just copied how takai looks to have done it. im not 100% sure on the orientation or if it matters for some of the bits.

please confirm correct? before i solder




these 3 tracks where do wires need to go for them?
green?
red, FPC signal from ECU in, output to FPR?
blue?



thanks for spoon feeding me

[auto351]

Green = to Relay Coil Negitive ----------- Just check the Mosfet it looks to be in the wrong way?
Blue = Ground 0V ---------------------- Note looks like you have the Cap the wrong way (polarity swapped).
Red = ECU Trigger ----------------------- Note you should have cut the track under that 1K0 resistor?

[Shakotan_Aaron]

Green = to Relay Coil Negitive ----------- Just check the Mosfet it looks to be in the wrong way?
Blue = Ground 0V ---------------------- Note looks like you have the Cap the wrong way (polarity swapped).
Red = ECU Trigger ----------------------- Note you should have cut the track under that 1K0 resistor?

i have no idea lol. those bits swapped around.

moved one side of resistor up a track, was wondering how it would work like that lol.

this look better?

[auto351]

looks OK,

Yellow = ECU control
Red = Not externally Connected

[Shakotan_Aaron]

fantastic.

thanks, will solder tomorrow.

[Shakotan_Aaron]

soldered it up like a pro! surprisingly satisfying actually making something like this even though its super basic.





now just need to trim the board and fit to case and see if it works lol.

[Shakotan_Aaron]

i tested it and looks like it works! connected junk to where its ment to go and used a light bulb across the relay to make it easy for me to see if it trips it or not and it does!

woot

so now i just have to wire it into the fuel pump permanent like.

i did notice that these a 1.5-2second delay between start cranking and firing? is this normal? when i bypassed the fuel pump circuit and just ran the pump constant to test fire the motor it started really quickly, perhaps this delay is to help start build oil pressure before the engine? as if the car has been sitting for a bit the reserve line pressure goes. not sure if this is the reason for the delay or not, or if its because of this converter.

[auto351]

Our Relay didnt operate until we cranked the engine, there is a very small delay before the relay operates and then the car starting, I'd say this is normal.
I was wondering if this delay was due to the DI input being connected to the IGN Circuit, as this give the ECU a signal the pump is running, so the ecu dosn't prime the lines the first time the Ignition is switched on?
The documentation indicated the pump only runs when it sees Ne signal?

Edit:
One of your solder joints looks dry?