Attaching brake calipers to hubs?

[jonathan yee]

what about pressing some wheel studs into the hub then a bolt to hold the caliper?

[wagonist]

ahh i thought you were making brackets to move the calipers out further. but your screwing the caliper directly to the hub. I see.

starky wants me to do some brackets for his car, i thought if you had some brackets i could buy it would be easier haha.

If you're going to use non Toyota rotors (ie something with a different hat height), then maybe that would work, but otherwise it's impossible (or at the least extermely difficult).

Someone in central America has done an EVO brembo combined with an STi on his Caldina (link to his thread in the first page of the Caldina dedicated thread), but you'd need at least 18s to clear (plus a 25mm spacer)

[wagonist]

what about pressing some wheel studs into the hub then a bolt to hold the caliper?

I'm guessing you mean studs & nuts?

Stud faces inwards for the caliper to go.
Wheel studs face outwards for the rotor to go on.
Caliper fits either side of the rotor.
Fail.

Had already attempted that because the studs from the lower ball joints are perfect.

[AL510]

I'd go with the heli coil. the outside of the coil is just a larger thread so it should be just as strong if not stronger.you would want to remove the part from the car and have it drilled in a drill press or a mill though to make sure it is square though.

Al.

[jonathan yee]

I'm guessing you mean studs & nuts?

Stud faces inwards for the caliper to go.
Wheel studs face outwards for the rotor to go on.
Caliper fits either side of the rotor.
Fail.

Had already attempted that because the studs from the lower ball joints are perfect.

d'oh...yeh makes sense.

i had my caliper's helicoiled in my mini ages ago becuase some douch put a coarse thread bolt in and it shear'd of when i was doin 110kph on the way to kalbarri.

fortunately it was the one towards the front of the car so when i applied the brakes whilst going forward the caliper pulled itself onto the rotor, but when applied going in reverse the caliper pulled away and jammed itself onto the inside of my rim creating lockup and a nice groove

[wagonist]

d'oh...yeh makes sense.

i had my caliper's helicoiled in my mini ages ago becuase some douch put a coarse thread bolt in and it shear'd of when i was doin 110kph on the way to kalbarri.

fortunately it was the one towards the front of the car so when i applied the brakes whilst going forward the caliper pulled itself onto the rotor, but when applied going in reverse the caliper pulled away and jammed itself onto the inside of my rim creating lockup and a nice groove

Was this before or after the helicoil...

Actually leaning towards the welding of the nut. Don't have to worry about supreme accuracy. ie use a bolt to hold the nut into position & a couple of tack welds. then remove bolt & weld it better.

Removal for retrofitting would involve grinding off the welds, but would also need to be made flat because the original caliper fits that side. But realistically, this car (as opposed to the previous turbo diesel) is actually worth more with this brake setup & most likely won't be coming back off.

Besides, I actually have a spare set of knuckles (with stuffed bearings) if it becomes an issue (Actually my place is becoming a bit of a Caldina spares yard...)

[jonathan yee]

this was before the helicoil and the reason i had to get it done.

at the time i had less than the zero mechanical knowledge i do now and this is what the mech did to fix the issue, never thought anything of it again until you raised the question.

[wagonist]

So from that I'm guessing you never felt anything afterwards, and therefore it wasn't a problem.

Nice to know, though the scale of vehicle weights, speed and cornering cabilities are vastly different.

[CrUZida]

Let me see if I have read it correctly.
Your calipers are not threaded, 12mm holes.
Your hubs are not threaded, 12mm holes.

Correct?

Seems pretty obvious to me to go and get some hi-tensile M12 bolts and niloc nuts.

All my adaptors are bolted on like this.

[wagonist]

You are correct.

The issue is that the rotors clear the knuckle by about 5mm, which is not enough to get a spanner in there to hold the nut.

It may be possible to get a right angle spanner in from the other side.

How would the ny-lock hold up to the brake rotor heat?
The nuts would be sitting inside the rotor & clear by about 3mm.

I'll get a pic when I get home.

[CrUZida]

Yeah, hard to make decisions without pics.

All my niloc nuts are on the inside of the car, ie well away from brake rotor heat, so not an issue for me.

[RA35GT]

You can get torque prevailing nuts which are all metal.

[wagonist]

You can get torque prevailing nuts which are all metal.

That would be my preference. And they could possibly be welded on too.

[ed]

i played with steves stuff on the mill the other night, and having seen it i agree its a bit fiddly

but, my vote would be for an M12x1.25mm helicoi in the mount

OR

i dont like nylocs, so id get one of the other locking nuts (theyre crimped over on the end in 3 spots) +- loctite and just man up and get a supercheap sacrificial tool (SST) to hold them while youre torquing them up.

[forey]

You can get torque prevailing nuts which are all metal.

correct, they are called glenlock from memory, ... used them recently.. pretty expensive tho