1UZFE HELP!!! MANUAL and WIRE dirgrams wanted

[13btt lotus]

hey all,

ive done searches and scrolled through the forums, im sure its here but i just cant seem to find the info

ive just got my hands on a 1uz for my daily,

im chasing a manual for her so i can strip it down and know how to put it back together (mainly i want to know the required torque settings and head replacement sequence and similar...)

also i would love a full loom diagram as i will be making my own loom to fit it into the cars stock loom, and its obviously easier if you have one for both the car and the motor....

cheers for the help in advanced

nathan

[CrUZida]

What car and what year is the engine from? They are all require different wiring diagrams.

Also why bother stripping it?
It's cheaper to buy a new motor.

[13btt lotus]

CrUZida,

is there any way to know what model and what year from the engine number?? near enough is close enough for the wiring, i can work out whats there and whats missing if ive got a rough guide (are they really that different??)

by "new" do you mean brand new out of the box from toyota (im guessing not), or rebuilt or a "fresh" halfcut??

and if i can im going to give her a couple extra cubes when she is being built...

if you are going to do something may as well do it right first time.....

so will do bearings, cams, seals, (and the rest)....

cheers

nathan

[MWP]

Best way to tell is from the ECU part number.
... and yes, they can be very different.

I was going to give a link to the Lextreme forums where there is a section on wiring with many diagrams, but it seems the forum is down at the moment

[CrUZida]

Is the loom uncut? Do you have a the ECU? if so whats the part number?

The reason you need to know is mainly because the colours of the wires differ greatly from engine to engine, and the wrong wiring diagram will lead you down the wrong path.
Unless you are very familiar with how Toyota's are wired you can waste days trying to sort it out.
The right diagram will have you sorted in hours.

The easiest way to tell the year is by looking at the spark plug leads, they have a date on them. But thats assuming they haven't been changed. Also the water pump is stamped with its date of manufacturer. But once again, thats assuming it hasn't been changed.

You can usually tell where the motor came from depending on the sump style, exhaust manifolds, ignitor locations, aircon style, badge, etc, but once again, this is assuming they haven't been changed.


As far as 'new', nah, I meant 'another' import motor.
Generally speaking there is nothing wrong with them, and most people get a good 100,000+ km's of thrashing out of them before any issues are shown.

For sure, its a good idea to replace the water pump, timing belt, timing belt bearings, timing belt tensioner, and all the other normal consumables (rotors, dizzys, leads, plugs, etc), but I personally wouldn't bother pulling the motor down at all. At the most I'd change the head gaskets but thats only if I was planning some serious boost. But even then I'd probably wait until they blew before I did anything.

I've watched a fair few people over the last years rebuild 1UZ's and a large portion have ended up worse off, and at a cost more than triple another import motor. Compare that to the amount of people who have just grabbed an import motor, changed some of the consumables, dropped it in and done skids, and you'll be out numbered at least 100 to 1.

If you want more cubes, then add boost. A well tuned, good condition motor can handle 12+psi every day.
If boost isn't your thing, and you actually want more cubes, then sell the 1UZ and get an LS1.


Just to confirm, this is all my opinion.

[13btt lotus]

thanks mate i appreciate the opinions cos they are well and truly constructive....

the car that its going into cant legally be boosted, as its my daily that is a hastle i cant work around... this build must be legal (read engineered and plated)

i got the motor very cheap (so bits of cut loom everywhere and no ecu, its cool, i was always wanting to go aftermarket ECu anyway... so im willing to spend moneys on it to get it to where it needs to be... also i like to do everything properly, and my version of properly involves me having a good look over it all...

being all alloy i would have assumed the 1uz would be heaps lighter than an Ls1, also an ls1 cant go in my ride.... same reason as the boost issue...

[CrUZida]

If you are going aftermarket ecu then probably any 1UZ diagram will suffice.
Check out the 'wiring diagram' thread on here, or have a look at Lextreme for a 1UZ dedicated forum.

Fair enough on the no boost and no larger cubes thing. (LS1 is all alloy as well btw).

I'd suggest to choose your gearing carefully to make the car more fun.
A T56 can be useful with its 0.5:1 6th gear, combined with a short diff (4.55:1ish) makes a very spritely car in the low gears, and a nice cruiser in 6th.

[13btt lotus]

i didnt know that i always thought the ls1 was a heavy old cast block...

T56, thats that out of?? i was looking at a W58 ot a R145, but ive not got the box or bell-housing yet...

yeah i figured i would be able to work it out (or at least get a good idea) from any of the wiring diagrams...

anywhere to point me for a build manual?? im guessing a lexus dealer somewhere might be able to get one but at what cost?? down loading and printing sounds like a cheaper option....

[CrUZida]

Lextreme.com should have everything you require.

T56 is the 6speed in Commodores

[timbosaurus]

[Start my opinion] The LS1 is a great idea. They're often younger than the 1UZ's floating around (remember, age deteriorates things as much as km's), are surprisingly comparable weight (3 less cams, pulleys etc and alloy construction will do that), and the fact that you can get them bolted up to the T56 saves a lot of fecking around with bellhousings and clutch etc. Also, the standard ECU's may as well be fully programable! The cost is usually more upfront, but if you manualise your 1UZ with an equivalant box, the 1UZ will be just as expensive. LS1 parts are easy to find too... and number of cubes will beat number of cams in most normal cases In fact, the 1UZ is actually pretty small, very comparable with the 3.6 quad-cam commodore V6 - it doesn't sound great when you put it that way huh? But anyway, that's not what your asking, and you've already decided on the 1UZ and I'm still quite jealous lol [end my opinion]

The T56 is the box out of the commodore. It's quite large, and will no doubt take some work on the trans tunnel. The W58's been known to last OK behing stock 1UZ's, it's quite cheap and will fit the tunnel without dramas.

If you're going aftermarket, do yourself a favour and start with a loom from scratch. It takes time to find terminals/connectors/crimpers to suit, but will be neat, reliable, you can take easily leave out any of the useless stuff like auto box wiring, TCS, add in thermo fans, wideband O2's, individual coilpacks etc.

I'd also recommend against pulling it apart. Experiences I hear are that it's very easy to put back together worse than factory... and the cost of reconditioning 2 16V heads, 4 cams, 8 bearings and rings ontop of full gasket kits from japan will easy consume 3+grand.

[13btt lotus]

tim, was reading ur post thinking bout an ls1, then did the double take and remembered it cant be engineered....

cams are going anyway, will check leak down, if its all good might keep the bottom end together, i am keen to have a look inside, so will prob do the head gaskets anyway

and ur spot on bout the loom from scratch, also im going to be running ITB's with LPG so will not need a lot of the extra current setup....

[CrUZida]

Be VERY careful which ITB's you chose.
Thus far basically no off-the-shelf models have lived up to their promises.

[timbosaurus]

oh nice, will be a great little car on LPG!

If you really want to look inside the motor, then your suggestion is best. Leave the bottom end, do the HG, belts, plugs and water pump. I'd also question the ITB's... If it's going to be a sensible and legal daily, do you really want a modification as un-cost-effective as ITB's? Plus, you've gotta talk to your LPG installer to make sure his injectors will fit in them. and would you be ditching petrol altogether?

To be honest, engineering is still 'who you know'. I'm sure if you find the right person then an LS1 celica could be done... they don't HAVE to abide by NCOP. My main concern of an LS1 swap is that in 5 years time, it would be like having a 308 powered celica now. No one will want it, and it'd be impossible to sell. I think a toyota V8 will always keep it's coolness.

[13btt lotus]

Be VERY careful which ITB's you chose.
Thus far basically no off-the-shelf models have lived up to their promises.

mate, any word on the ones out of nz??

oh nice, will be a great little car on LPG!

If you really want to look inside the motor, then your suggestion is best. Leave the bottom end, do the HG, belts, plugs and water pump. I'd also question the ITB's... If it's going to be a sensible and legal daily, do you really want a modification as un-cost-effective as ITB's? Plus, you've gotta talk to your LPG installer to make sure his injectors will fit in them. and would you be ditching petrol altogether?

To be honest, engineering is still 'who you know'. I'm sure if you find the right person then an LS1 celica could be done... they don't HAVE to abide by NCOP. My main concern of an LS1 swap is that in 5 years time, it would be like having a 308 powered celica now. No one will want it, and it'd be impossible to sell. I think a toyota V8 will always keep it's coolness.

tim, she is dedicated LPG only now as it is, ive been looking into some LPG kits and i think its possible to get a Haltech to "speak to" one of the Lpg piggyback style computers so the lpg computer will then adjust the normal petrol injector pulse so the signal will be correct and the lpg injectors will inject the required amount of gas, direct liquid injection is the plan at this stage... i could be wrong but thats the plan at this stage

i was planning on the itb's cos they are worth every cent of the 3000clams in cool alone

like a 1uz-ra23 is not unique enough

and you are right, the crumbledore motor will look out of place, there is a 308 on carsales in an ra40, and im sure at the time it was cool... (sorry if the owner is on here??)

cheers

nathan

[timbosaurus]

Liquid injection will not get you any more power. Not worth the trouble, have a read of the info here http://www.toymods.net//forums/showthread.php?t=51907

The reason you use piggyback ECU's in an normal LPG system is so you can tune the duty cycles to suit the LPG. If you're running a haltech, you won't need a piggy back. Just drive them directly. With an N/A V8, you should not run into problems with the vapour injectors not providing enough flow.