1UZ auto clearance issues - Big Rubber Donut

[aussie260z]

Was looking at getting some input from you guys regarding my transmission tunnel clearances issues with the 1UZ auto!

This is a pic in my Tunnel with the 1UZ auto - the Rubber Donut is not installed!



As you can see the shifter linkage is very close to the 3-pronged connection at the back of the gearbox, once installed it basically rubs on the shifter linkage!

I figure that if I didn't have this big rubber donut and had a normal slip-yoke style'd connection I would have room for my shifter linkages,

I have done some searching but I am a little bit unclear as to how I can do away with the rubber donut?

I read through some other posts and there was mention of adapting a 60 Series landcruiser tailshaft, but that worried me as it seemed I would have to get the length absolutely perfect, plus if there was any engine or diff wonder things could get messy!

Someone else told me I could undo the big nut in the middle of the gearbox output shaft and remove thus completely remove the 3-pronged unit from the back of the Auto and use a normal slip-yoke instead - anyone ever heard of this before?

Any other ideas besides sourcing a Crown auto or slapping in a manual :-)?

[WDE_BDY]

I was crawling around under a Toyota Estima van yesterday and noted they have a bolt on setup similar to the normal diff end setup and way smaller than what you have. Could be worth investigating.

Callum

[CrUZida]

You can convert the rear housing to a slipyoke one.
I believe the MX83 or MA70 auto is the best donor box for the swap.

[aussie260z]

I think I am going to struggle to find someone wrecking a Toytoa Estima Locally unfortunately!

So the extension housing (think that is what its called) from one of these 7mg'd auto's will bolt up to the 1UZ auto?

[WDE_BDY]

There are crap loads of them here (this was a 4WD turbo diesel with solid axle disc rear end, unusual as most in this spec seem to be IRS). Will see if I can find someone willing to pull one out and measure up on their next wreckers mission as if suitable it is the sort of part a lot of people would be interested in and pretty easy to get shipped over.

Callum

[aussie260z]

Might be a different story in Sydney or Melbourne, but I am in Canberra - electricity is still a novelty here :-)!

I think I have dug up a crown auto cheapish, so I might just take that path - there appears to be some mx83's to be wrecked locally, but have had offers of $350 and up for box and tailshaft............that seems over priced!

[CrUZida]

An autobox from anything pre 1992 should be almost free, at the most $50.

[aussie260z]

An autobox from anything pre 1992 should be almost free, at the most $50.

That's what I am thinking, just finding stuff locally is an issue, wreckers will always rip you off, but finding private wrecks is never much fun!

[Cuzzo]

You can convert the rear housing to a slipyoke one.
I believe the MX83 or MA70 auto is the best donor box for the swap.

Did you want an invitation?

Do this ^

[cambelt]

$50 on the forums, maybe from a novice tinkerer that hasnt removed it properly . $350 from wreckers , They have to remove it and warrent it to be working for 3 months thats why they charge .
Go and order the JZA 80 TT auto output flange bolts straight onto yr box then you dont have to swap boxs. The flange is $250 tho
Dave

[aussie260z]

Did you want an invitation?

Do this ^

Uh-huh, read through the above posts, problem is finding the parts at a reasonable price locally there sport :-)!

$50 on the forums, maybe from a novice tinkerer that hasnt removed it properly . $350 from wreckers , They have to remove it and warrent it to be working for 3 months thats why they charge .

There was a fellow who was selling an MX83 locally, but he actually wanted $350 and the wrecker wanted $325, I thought that was interesting :-)!

I can grab a Crown box complete for about $200 delivered, but it's of unknown condition,

Go and order the JZA 80 TT auto output flange bolts straight onto yr box then you dont have to swap boxs. The flange is $250 tho
Dave

You mean the extension housing? Still have to source the yoke though, but that does sound like a decent option!

Just curious - anyone ever used a B&M shifter with these auto's? If I used a cable instead of a solid linkage, that should allow me clearance!

[madmont]

Or you could put on a flange from an A340H 4runner auto transmission rear output
you will need a different seal

[cambelt]

A 4 runner flange is all good but there is none on this earth for wrecking . For the time and hastle just order the new supra flange , cut the dick off and yr done .
Dave

[2jzhilux]

If you do the tt supra flange do you still have the problem with not much spline contacting inside the gearbox or is it ok.

[cambelt]

There is no seal change and the tripod verse the supra flange are both the same size internally .
Where did you here about a spline issue.
Dave

[allencr]

Someone else told me I could undo the big nut in the middle of the gearbox output shaft and remove thus completely remove the 3-pronged unit from the back of the Auto and use a normal slip-yoke instead - anyone ever heard of this before?

It might be possible with the much shorter length & probably differently designed splines, if the power isn't being increased and/or the diff doesn'n move much.

Redo all the mount/s & welding so it'll fit? That may need lots of time but little cash depending on your situation.

[aussie260z]

It might be possible with the much shorter length & probably differently designed splines, if the power isn't being increased and/or the diff doesn'n move much.

Redo all the mount/s & welding so it'll fit? That may need lots of time but little cash depending on your situation.

No :-), I won't be re-welding that transmission tunnel!

I need that support in there anyways - I guess I could remove the mounting "ears" and ditch that style of gearbox crossmember and make a style similar to that of the original Soarer gearbox crossmember, ie - one that bolts upwards onto the mounts!

But, yes, that would be a lot of work :-)!

I just bought a B&M Shifter - I will just fabricate the bits and pieces I need to get the cable operated shifter to work and do away with the solid gearbox linkages :-)!