How much $ to open up an AW11 4AGE Gearbox, fixing a loose and squeaky drive shaft..

[axiomic]

My AW11 MR2 has had an irritating squeak from the rear of the car for a while now.. the local mechanic put it up on the hoist and found that the right side drive shaft was loose inside the gearbox (rattling / moving about half a centimeter or more). I suspect the drive-shaft came loose due to a non-AW11 specific suspension arm being used for a repair by the previous owner, and the geometry being slightly out, I suspect this because a polyurethane bushing kit from 2'sR'Us will not fit on this right side suspension arm...

The mechanic said they would have to spend about 4hrs to open it up (@ $88/hr) and inspect, that it would possibly need a new bearing or maybe a new gearbox ($1-2000) , and then it would have to be put back together (another 4 hrs). And they would have to send the car or gearbox to a specialist to repair it.

I won't be using this mechanic to fix it. But what would be the best option here? Is there a mechanic that specializes in AW11s, or 4AGE engines that someone can recommend? I'm in Lane Cove, Sydney.

Thanks for your advice

[feral4mr2]

all my aw11's have some play where the drive shaft goes into the box.

a beer induced question...... have you checked the rear brake pads? they do have a wear indicator that squeaks when the pads wear low.

[Talasas]

Get another opinion, saying things like "possibly a new gearbox" is nonsense, you should only have to replace it if it's irrepairable or cheapr buy buy a new box.

[axiomic]

Yeah, the very first thing the mechanic checked was the brake wear indicator, it was all ok. Also the squeal is not consistent - it comes and goes, usually louder once the car has heated up. The mechanic reckons the squeal is coming from a suspension boot / joint - but due to the slightly off geometry from the loose drive shaft and suspected bad gear box bearing.

There's an audible rattle / thud coming from the drive shaft when I go over bumps in the road - it almost sounds like a loose engine mount. It's not just a small amount of loosness where the drive shaft goes into the box.

I doubt the gear box will need complete replacement, as the gear-shifting and syncromesh all feel fine to me. I think the mechanic was just giving prices for worst case scenario...but I'll definitely get 2nd opinions from other mechanics.

[KARNAGE]

yeah definately get a 2nd opinion i fixed this problem in a customer car it took only 4.5 hours from start to finish but i own a aw11 myself which helps that was 2 mechanics and we werent flat out either

[axiomic]

KARNAGE, what was the cause of the problem in the car you fixed? what needed replacing?

[KARNAGE]

they had a crash and the drive shaft had twisted slightly so we checked the box and replaced the passenger side drive shaft a lot of aw11 have slight play though mine had probably half a centimetre in it, though it doesnt squeak or cause any problems

[axiomic]

Well I just had a quote and the guy said I've got freeplay at the right rear wheel - cost about $550 to fix, and freeplay in the gearbox, cost about $3000...

I'm going around to pick the car up and to never return to them...

That's some nasty expenses.. can anyone recommend a fair mechanic in Sydney? preferred closer to Lane Cove area..

anyone?

[tomvale13]

$3k!!!!

wtf!

If you find a good gb mech in Syd, do post your findings in here as I'm looking for similar work in the upcoming months and could use a tip,

good lcuk with it mate, be hard to be quoted more than that!!

*subscribes*

[oldcorollas]

that sounds like a "we don't know what we are doing, or where the problem is.. but we will pull stuff apart and see if we can find something.. if we can't we'll put it back together and charge you anyway" kind of quote...

in the toymods spirit.. why not look at doing it yourself?

[axiomic]

Yeah, to be fair, this mechanic that quoted 3k would have to send the car/gearbox out to be repaired, and this is the amount that he was quoted. He admits that that is a "we don't know what the problem is" kind of quote, with minimum charge of $1.5k for opening the gearbox up. He also says this free play in the hub is not urgent, and that I should be able to live with it.

However, it appears the cause of my main problems is elsewhere, with a badly worn wheel hub and bearing. He quoted $525-550 for replacement of the hub and bearing of the rear right wheel - which he says is critical and urgent and would not pass roadworthy (I believe him, it wobbles badly). He'd have to order the parts from Toyota. He also says it could be possible that the part that holds the hub and bearing (the vertical suspension part) could be damaged and needing replacement, and that could cost $$. But he wouldn't know until he pulled it all apart.

So, I'll live with the freeplay of the drive shaft in the gearbox and just get this wheel bearing and hub fixed..

[oldcorollas]

err.. maybe it is time to take a trip to a wrecker with an AW11, and grab some bits.

ti is possible the strut/stub axle is also fubared, but you should be able to see that if you take off the wheel and take off the hub.

if you are not confident doing it, then maybe contact some other toymodders, provide some beers or something, and ask them to help check ti for you (maybe even at a toymods event?)

also check with other the AW11 owners to see if the suspension arm is different.. seems very odd that a non-AW11 part could be used in an AW11....

find otu what is stuffed/incorrect, pull from wreckers or buy from parts hoarding toymodder, and replace = WIN?

edit: and ask here if you haven7t already
http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=157

[axiomic]

I took the car in today back to the first mechanic - partly to tell them that they'd overlooked the bad wheel bearing/hub, and also to see if they could give a better price than $550 for its repair..

They rang Toyota for a price on all new bits; hub, bearing and seals - came to $450. Then the mechanic said it would take 2-3hrs/$220 to install.. therefore $670 (for one wheel hub/bearing/seals/install only!)

So I see my option now as going to the wreckers, getting old parts, or going with a new set for $550 installed..

Pricey!

[oldcorollas]

how much are MR2 parts cars going for these days

it is only pricey if you are paying thru nose for retail, and can't do the work yourself....

bearings and seals can be gotten from bearing shops usually, at cheaper price

[wagonist]

Has all the other damage that caused the alignment problems been sorted?

The hub & stub axle should only wear out if there's something bent. The wheel bearing in between them is the bit that has the movable parts.
Also, remove the nut off the end of the driveshaft, remove the brake pads & see if the stub axle is able to be moved in & out relative to the hub. It shouldn't be able to & can indicate whether the bearing has failed, or whether the stub axle or hub have worn such that the bearing can move inside. As this is all a press fit together, there should be very little movement.

So you should be able to get a whole suspension unit from a wreckers for maybe $100 (a big stab in the dark). But check it's freeplay as well.
Replace the wheel bearing with a new aftermarket replacement one (maybe round $50). A press is all that is required for this.

If you've got freeplay in your hub, then check your brake rotor for uneven wear.
As this moves with the stub axle, but the caliper is on the hub, they would have been moving laterally with each other, instead of simply spinning only.

[axiomic]

wagonist -
Nope, no change has been made to my alignment or suspension recently... one of the mechanics did a brief check, seeing if there was any slack etc., he found nothing obvious.

The only changes that had been done to it (no accidents.. that I know of) is that about 2 yrs ago i had new suspension put in (eibach/koni), with polyurethane bushes, and a fairly extreme camber.. and then there was the problem of the urethane bush not fitting on one of those suspension arms, and the normal original rubber bush being left in at that point.

Thanks for the advice with checking the hub, I might do that and make a trip to a wrecker.

Does anyone maintain a list of known wreckers in Sydney with AW11 parts?

[sbfoot]

for wheel bearings try bursons auto parts or cbc bearings, they are fairly well priced,try mechanical help from a toy modder to replace these,as these parts haves been diagnosedn to be faulty-that the wheel bearing seems to have too much freeplay and movement.get this fixed first as drive shaft/wheel bearing issues can give difficult problems to diagnose,see if the noise has gone then worry about the possibility of a more expensive repair.

[Z2TT]

Hi, I too have been having some similar problems.

I have noticed a loud noise coming from the rear of the car, like a angle grinder. Didn't seem to be the wheel bearing. The disc rotor had a few groves but I sorted them out, wasn't anything major so no machining was required, don't think that could have been it but yet to put it all back and drive.

1. I jacked the car up on the rear wheels and turned it on, put it into drive to check for any unusual noises. I noticed that there was a loud noise where the differential joined onto the left CV shaft, I also noticed that the left CV shaft was a bit bent, as it rotated there was a bit of sideways movement of about 2 or 3mm. I removed the left rear CV and inspected it, didn't seem to be any play in the bearing. Turned the car back in to see if the noise was still there, Put it into drive again and the noise was coming from the diff. I took the diff out and checked for play, it was minimal, much less than my spare diff that did not make the same noise. I suspect that it could be something loose inside. A corolla diff that I opened back in the day had a little metal piece that had broken off.

2. There was a vibration that I had noticed around the front seats. I suspected this to be my center drive shaft connection/bearing? (correct me on name), not a uni joint though. I noticed that this rotates on a rubber seat, thick rubber. I tried to move this joint up and down, and with minimal force it happily moved up and down and knocked. This leads me to think that the rubber seat it sits on is worn, and needs to be replaced.

3. I noticed where the driveshaft begins, where it connects into the transmission, there is a bit of looseness, but no up/down or left/right play. When I turn it, it feels loose, there is some slack. I checked this on my other car that is the same model, and it did not feel that loose. What could this be, and should I be worried?

Thanks.

Any comments?

[Z2TT]

Double post.

[aw11gte]

If its the wheel bearing he is ripping you off with that price. Get the bearing from CBC, $60 which includes seal kit. Grab another hub from a corolla from same era, they are the same hub, press the spindle out of both hubs, replace bearing and press iin the corolla spindle. Even with it out the car, if you take it to a mechanic to have the pressing done it shouldnt cost you any more than $20. I just did mine on the rear and did exactly as i described, very easy and cheap job.