Attn 1G-GTE owners

[Les]

(1) Does anyone have a part number for the 1g-gte (3rd gen) spark plug ? need to do a service and forgot where i put the old spark plug boxes !

EDIT
Old forums good...
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_738921

+

* NGK - BCPR6EP-N-8
* Same plugs as 7mgteu, or if money is tight try 7mgeu
* Denso K20PRU11 ... gapped to 0.8mm
* NGK platinum plugs. You can try one of these:
BCPR6EP-N-8
BCPR6EY-11
BCPR6ES-11

(2) Who has upgraded starter motor for 1G-GTE ? Did you go aftermarket or stuck with original .. Know of any good places in Sydney to purchase a new one and possible fit it as well - want to get it done right first time.

Thanx

[Hydra]

http://members.optushome.com.au/mkha...nfo/index.html

Some random useful info on that page In regards to the starter I feel that a toyota item should be fine as long as it fits and works ok!

[stradlater]

I've used the std 1g-gte starter, and that's worked a treat. I can't imagine why you'd need to upgrade it unless maybe you have a higher compression ratio or something?

Secondly, I do actually have the 1g-gte std plugs in mine. I can't remember what they are, but I can find out for you if you want, I can go get them out of my car.

[Les]

1) Well, it's not an upgrade as such ... it's more an issue of "need to replace" We think the solenoid has goooooooooone hence it starts when cold, but once warmed up, it will play up and start maybe 1 out of 5 times. We can hear a clicking sound but it will not crank. First, we will disconnect and hook it up again - possibly loose wiring, but more likely to be old starter playing up ? Any thoughts ?

2) No need to trouble yourself re plugs dude, I have managed to find a few links to the plugs: From various sources for gen 3 1G-GTE for future reference (thanks Nark, Hydra, JCMF):

* NGK - BCPR6EP-N-8
* Same plugs as 7mgteu, or if money is tight try 7mgeu
* Denso K20PRU11 ... gapped to 0.8mm
* NGK platinum plugs. You can try one of these:
BCPR6EP-N-8
BCPR6EY-11
BCPR6ES-11

[Dylo]

Les,

The problem with the starter on the 1GGTE is a very common toyota one. The trigger wire for the soleniod is a tiny gauged wire from the ECU. What needs to be done is have this hooked up to trigger a new relay and give it a big blast of current from a better source.

Dylo

[Les]

Les,

The problem with the starter on the 1GGTE is a very common toyota one. The trigger wire for the soleniod is a tiny gauged wire from the ECU. What needs to be done is have this hooked up to trigger a new relay and give it a big blast of current from a better source.

Dylo

Hey, thanks. Is this from experience Dylo ?

[Dylo]

Well yes I know its a common problem as a mate with a 1G had this problem, and mine has always done it. (I just havent been stuffed to fix it yet) Mine only has drama's when its cold rather than hot like yours! Cranks one out of every three shots, so its no biggy.

[Dylo]

Here is exactly what im talking about!

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...4990#post54990

[stradlater]

1) I'd go with the loose wiring option. Particularly given that resistance increases as a function of heat..

2) let me know if you want any info on my plugs.

[Les]

Here is exactly what im talking about!

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...4990#post54990

OMG hard-on ... THANKS ..

Stradlater, plugs shd be cool for now, will just get some NGK's - thanks !

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Just make sure you gap them to 0.8mm

[Hydra]

It could also be dirty contact points for the starter motor

In regards to choosing spark plugs (more general info!) make sure you choose the right sizes as well. I was looking at plugs the other day and noticed that there was "B" and "BC". B's are much larger and wont fit down the tiny holes in the 1G. I think there are other spark plug codes that will fit but I can't remember them.

[stradlater]

And
Another note on the plugs..
with the NGK plugs, if they are rated "R" they have a much higher resistance than the non R plugs.. This resistance is put there to 'protect' factory ecu's.. If you have an aftermarket one, or just don't feel like adding unnecessary resistance to your HV ignition system, don't get the R plugs.

[Les]

Starter Problem (Mine)

NOW it seems it does not matter if it is hot or not, the car WILL sometimes start and sometimes it wont while hot - or warmed up.

1) car is running, i.e. warm. Stop car and start immediately - no problems

2) as above, wait 10 minutes, while washing car, crank, click click click. no start. Wiggle the key a few times quickly, and it starts ..

It is definitely a contact problem ...

[Hydra]

Yeh, crawl under there and check it out Might be a really easy solution!

[Stefan]

FWIW, the starter on my 1GGTE (2nd gen) when I got it was intermittant. My auto electrician said that this it was a common problem for these starters - apparently the wires inside crack (whether he meant this particular starter, or toyota ones of this type, or all toyotas ones, I don't know. I had it completely rebuilt.. new internal wires, brushes, oversize contacts etc for around 100 bucks (which was a fantastic price).

[ndgcpr]

i thought the clicking was a sign of the solinoid trying to throw, thus no noise when turning the key i would think is a trigger wire problem but a clicking i would think is the main lead problem, i think mine has cracked it clicks sometimes and if you go and wiggle the main think wire it seems to help it start

[Les]

i thought the clicking was a sign of the solinoid trying to throw, thus no noise when turning the key i would think is a trigger wire problem but a clicking i would think is the main lead problem, i think mine has cracked it clicks sometimes and if you go and wiggle the main think wire it seems to help it start

What did you do to fix this ? If you have that is ...

[ndgcpr]

well at the end is a sort of eye terminal that i thought had broken off between the screw bit and the wire comming in, it was still covered in rubber insulation so if i sat the two lumps of metal together it made a half decent contact and was held there but the insulation, i was having problems when i was away and planned to fix it when i got back home, but after fiddling with the main lead at the starter motor it seemed to work and hasn't faulted again, i believe that it is still broken and the large amount of current flowing through it has created a type of weld that seems to hold it together, rightfully i should go and buy a new lead from the local car accessories place (like autobarn of super cheap) but really have just been lazy and not bothered, i will get under it one day and check it all out properly.

I must add that none of this is proven, this is just what i believe has happened and it makes sense to me.