4agze kings pls - rebuild recommendations and suggested upgrades!

[Ben Wilson]

How many K's has your 4A done (or did) before a rebuild Ben?

It came out of a rearcut (no speedo), but it had a sticker on the timing belt cover with a date I worked out was about 5 years previous. I'm assuimg that was for a timing belt change, so I'm assuming about 120k or so. The internal wear seemed to indicate that would be about right for a decently maintatined motor. It didn't need rebuilding, but I wanted to be sure it was healthy.

[mullett]

15psi is pushing it with an SC12. If you're going to spend the dollars, I'd got turbo or SC14 if you want that much pressure. As for the rebuild, do it properlly. Get the block acid dipped, new oversize bearings, pistons, rings, new gasket kit, and make sure it's assembled to spec. Also, if you want to rev it hard and hold together, get some ARP bolts to stop things flying apart...Plus the standard stuff, new oil pump, new water pump, timimg belt, etc...

RM.

[NVD05X]

i got the front and rear crank seals in my ACL VRS kit

[mrkae92]

You can see whats involved in the EA falcon pulley mod here: http://www.twincam.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=19531

I did it to my gze about a month ago, only cost ~$120 including purchasing the AC pulley and compressor (wrecker wouldn't separate), machining a bush, and new belt. You get clutched 14-15Psi without the added load of overdriving the waterpump and alternator as with a nevo item.

[Ghetto-Spec .:bayka:.]

Thanks for all the info ppl. Especially the rebuild write up slide86 thats friggin perfect.

Ive finally proven that my big end bearings are shot. I have noticable play grabbing the big end (at the crank) of each piston. Its worse from piston 4 and gets progressively better (read: less fucked) as you move along to piston 1.

I've heard this is likely damge from running engine at 15psi? I ran it at 15psi with only top mount intercooler for some time. I suspect this may have been the culprit.

-- the verdict --
Crank :At this stage then, i would presume my crank is cactus. I have a perfect 100kw 4age and 88kw 4age crank lying round. Are these compatible with ZE?

Con rods: as these are likely screwed aswell, would you guys recommend sourcing aftermarkets (TRD?) or something, new or second hand rods bearing in mind my driving desirability.

What the frig is an ACL VRS kit?
What are ARP bolts?
Whats the go with oversize bearings
And, where do u I source this stuff?

(if this shit is covered in slide86 write up let me know and i can read later, on lunch break atm!)

Thanks in advance all
Daniel

[TooF]

the crank *may* be ok.



take it to a machine shop and get them to measure it and check for straightness. and in terms of crank compatability as long as it is the 42mm big end crank then they are common across all of those engines.

VRS kit -Valve regrind set - bascialyl all the gaskets and seals you'll need for the head.. if your doing a full build dont get this. get the full gasket kit (also avaliable from ACL) and it will contain the bottom end seals as well.
ARP bolts are just fresh (good quality too) bolts for all the strained components big ends, head bolts, fly bolts etc.
oversize bearings - if your crank is damaged from the worn bearing (likley) it will need to be machined back to say 0.5mm smaller then standard.. then you will need a bearing that is 0.5mm larger to accomodate the thinner crank. your machine shop will be able to advise on what size oversize is required.

find a reputable enigne rebuilder or shop and they will be able to supply all this gear including the machining work required (block bore/hone, crank grind/linish etc etc)

that said not meaning to be rude if your asking what these items are perhaps you should pay to get the engine put together... or you'll need beer for a mate that knows them not hassling you but it is stuff you dont want to get wrong and have to build another enigne... (i havent followed the rest of the thread so you may have already answered this bit)

[nick.parker]

Just FYI,

Although far from daily driven my AW11 & SC14 setup runs 18-19psi. Its been doing this since 2006. No superchargers have been harmed yet, although I've tried three different SC14s - all behaved the same, some are more noisey than others due to worn synchronising gears, probably due to lack of oil in the supercharger I think. I don't tend to bounce it off the limitter though and revs tend to stay below 6.5K, with bigger cams it would be worth a few more revs, but not stock cams (although I have a 256° HKS on the inlet only). Also my tune is nice and rich at this boost and engine is only 8.0:1.

Nick.

[TERRA Operative]

Thread necrophilia FTW.

[nick.parker]

Dang! I done set myself a new record Kleetis!

[MorGo]

Not reading the thread but inputting my opinion.
Get the best head you afford;LOSE the STD intake manifold (#1 flow is -30% down compared to #3;generally the intake is below horrible!)
and get FMIC.
Blowers are poor creating pressure so any means you get engine inhaling better the boost get lower.Lower the boost,the lower the temperature.Intercooler have to do less work in dissipating the heat and temp sensor in intake see lower temp.That means no retarded ignition and no over rich mixture.Win win Win situation.
You do what you do and have what you pay.Just be sure that what you pay is good stuff..

[TERRA Operative]

damn, wrong thread.