Assembly
Ok, at this point you have to make some decisions regarding assembly. I have only ever made these up as height adjustable coilovers, but you can do them as a standard spring. You would need to get custom springs made up with the lower part wound for the Corona perch, and the upper part wound for whatever you are going to put them into.
If others have pictures of that setup then I can update this post with them later
*images of custom springs on standard perches go here*
As for the coilovers this is what you do.
Firstly you will need to grind off the current spring perch. This is best done with an angle grinder as so:
At this point you dont want to cut into the strut, so try and refrain from that for now. If you are intending to shorten the strut you dont need to smooth off the rest of the perch as i have done there. From memory those were for another car which was going to run standard height struts.
Next you need to get some coilover perches or collars. These come in two different types, the alloy sleeved type, and the steel sleeved type. Of course they have their intrinsic advantages and disadvantages. Personally i use the Alloy type and dont have any issues with them. For the hard of visualisation here are the type i use:
They are pictured there with the T3 needle roller bearing upper hats and some Eibach springs.
The size you need is 2" or if they want metric its 51mm. Any smaller/larger and it wont fit (properly at least).
And here comes the big decision you need to make. What inserts to use. Which ones you go with will determine whether you want to cut down your struts or leave them at standard height. Also calculating your spring rates and adjustment will determine whether you want to use shorter stroke shocks and simply space them up in the strut or shorten the strut. That discussion is best left for another time (possibly a post later in this thread)
Needless to say i was using the Tokico HTS102s and so i shortened my strut by 50mm and then added a 20mm spacer at the bottom of the tube. At the same time i had a steel collar welded on the strut to locate the bottom of the alloy sleeves since they cannot be welded directly to the steel strut:
In order to fit those i heated them in a water bath in my oven and simultaneously had the struts in our chest freezer. Then when they had both been in there for an hour or so i quickly assembled them with a rubber mallet, and when they have returned to room temperature they are a wonderful interference fit. Just make sure you dont get them around the wrong way as i know some people have
The rest of the suspension assembly is fairly self explanatory, put inserts in struts
springs on collars, upper hats on springs, top hats ontop and bolt together. Insert in car.
A word of warning, some top hats will foul on the upper hats as seen here:
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you may need something like this
Always dry fit things before putting them together for real
Brake Assembly
Brake assembly is really easy. From here you need to just bolt the disc onto the back of the hub.
*need image*
For this it is highly reccomended to use Loctite to assemble this, to ensure that nothing comes apart at speed.
Then bolt the hub to the strut via the stub axle, and then the caliper over the disc. Make sure you use Loctite again on the caliper to strut mount, as if this comes off at speed its extremely not pretty. Then insert more grease into the bearing and into the bearing cap, and pop it on. Put the pads into the discs and connect the brake lines. Bleed your brakes and stand back and admire. It should look something like this:
or
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