rebuild

[rt104]

i cant find a 18rg so i am going to rebuild my 18rc. if anyone knows what i will need to do this or any info please send

thanks Aaron

[lilcrash]

u will need rings, bearings, chains, tensioners, guides and a gasket kit.

a manual would be helpfull too.

laterdays

[Rinmax]

1. Take lots of photos while pulling it apart, to help putting it back together.

2. Clean parts as they come off the engine, your motivation is higher than when your putting it back together when all you want is to start it up.

3. Tag and Bag all of the parts so you WILL know how it goes back together again. Nothing worse than spending an hour looking a missing bolt.

4. If in doubt, don't force it, ask someone, it will cost you less money.

5. Most importantly have the correct workshop manual with you for information.

Thats just from my experiances from doing a few engines.
Good luck and enjoy

[gearb0x]

Tagging and Baging of stuff is paramount, group parts with the associated bolts, if when you pull the rocker gear off put all the rocker bolts in a bag with a tag, this way you never end up with left over bolts

Photos of all vacume hoses you disconnect etc

if u dont have a digital camera, mark the hoses to where they come off ie: 3 white dots on the hose, 3 white dots where it plugs into.

[AE101LEV]

u will need rings, bearings, chains, tensioners, guides and a gasket kit.

a manual would be helpfull too.

laterdays

just to add to that.

Thrust washers
Lubrication grease (for re-asembling for that first startup) (not white grease, its more of a oil consistancy that you want)
plastigauge
feeler gauge
float measuing device
you will need a manual for checking your oil clearances, ring gaps and float & for tensions.
2 jars of Vasoline
not hardning sealer for your paper gaskets
loctite (blue grade, med strength)
copper gasket goo (or anything sensor safe as it can effect engine grounding)
at least 1.5 months of patience, engine builders take a while to do all your engine machine work, and allways double check there work.
you are better off replacing everthing that you can to save pulling it back apart for later replacment (clutch is a good start)
DEFINATLY get zip bags (like for lunches) to put your bolts in and label each bag and only do one section at a time like one bag for air con bolts, another for inlet manifold bla bla

I feel like i missed something out you allways do!

[rt104]

thanks alot people

[barned01]

i found the bag and tag method motivationally hard.
I used a nice open area of the shed, put down some fresh white paper
and as i removed a part of the engine i put it in the relative place on the paper.

this allowed a visual guide as to the assembly of the engine and kept all the parts and bolts in the same place when it went back together.
Ie. if the piston and rod and bolts came out of the number 1 bore, it went on the paper at the front and then when it was put back together went into the same spot as well.
it also allows you to keep the orientation of your parts correct
there is an 18r thread that has the tightening torques and some clearances for you on here (done by me a while ago ) (http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025)

[Rinmax]

I would like to have a shed where two people can walk past each other down an aisle, let alone lay out the contents of an engine.

When can I move in?

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Re-Tap the holes for the head bolts and buy new head bolts.
Laugh at ppl who blow head gaskets over and over and over and over again.

[AE101LEV]

i found the bag and tag method motivationally hard.
I used a nice open area of the shed, put down some fresh white paper
and as i removed a part of the engine i put it in the relative place on the paper.

this allowed a visual guide as to the assembly of the engine and kept all the parts and bolts in the same place when it went back together.
Ie. if the piston and rod and bolts came out of the number 1 bore, it went on the paper at the front and then when it was put back together went into the same spot as well.
it also allows you to keep the orientation of your parts correct
there is an 18r thread that has the tightening torques and some clearances for you on here (done by me a while ago ) (http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1025)

you can do that to start with but when its time to go back together.. its not a wise idea to leave naked parts on the floor wether its on paper or not.you kick so much dust and dirt around garantee it will get on your parts, when I assembled my motor each part was cleaned with degreaser, then hot soapy water and then straight after wiped down with a paper towel covered in thinners, each internal part was cleaned to the point the paper towel would not have one spec of discolouration from grime. the key is to Steralize EVERYTHING internal. but yeh to start off with thats ok but movin it twice is sillay