TA22 Rear coilover upgrade

[RX-22]

Had a little look around at other topics and threads but couldn't find anything on Rear suspension upgrade, ie. combining to a coilover set up.
Ive had a little look under there and doesn't seem to be a hell a lot of room but I think there is just enough for it to happen.
Im presuming the original shock tower in the boot is too weak to take this load and I don't really want to butcher the top spring seat etc to get it in.
I was thinking to get something like this MDS-shock.jpg and mount it to the chassis rail and fabricate a mount on the diff (things can be shuffled on the diff because im getting a stronger one made).
The trailing arm mounts on the diff wont be a problem because they are soon to be hemi joints which will give me a few extra cm's, the only problem I see is the sway bar mount, this can be gotten over I feel too.
20141214_163416 - Copy.jpg20141214_165647 - Copy.jpg
Im angling the idea for track days so as to get a lot of adjustment in the shocks and ride height.
Is the chassis rail up to the job? Any opinions, ideas, problems or achieved results?
Thanks Dave

["Z" UTE]

The sway bar mount point pictured is not original and has been added after manufacture.

The so called chassis rails are not very strong, If I was to mount anything to them they would be in for a bit of reo work first. Personally I would find something that will work with the existing spring tower in the car and make it fit the diff housing. You are going to mod that so go that way. You can always use a coilover, plus a suitably valved shock on the original shock mounts. Double the tuneability of your shocks.

[SHEPPO3930]

you have to serious structural work to allow conventional coil overs to work in a TA22. at a minimum you'll need to fabricate new spring/strut towers to take a coil over.

i decided to keep the damper and spring separate, and fitted adjustable spring perches to the body of the car. i had to cut out the original spring mounts.

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...=1#post1573000

[RX-22]

Yeah i've seen a few of those adjustables spring conversion, i've been following your build too sheppo nice work. Wish i could get my hands into it myself like you but unfortunately im only set up and know how to work with timber.
i'm not really comfortable with hacking out the top spring seat (ironically, an origionallity issue i have, would like to keep them if it has another life as a more origional approach) but if i was to use an original point it would be there z ute. After all that point is already designed to take the corner load of the car.
it may be something i have to reconsider, i had ideas of the coilover being at the rear of the diff so it was easier adjust. i'm pretty stubborn, lol, so i may have to talk to an engineer about it and throw the kitchen sink at it if i have to.
From a handling/ suspension geometry point of view is it better for the L & R suspension points to be as wide as possible between each other? Mounting off the chasis rail will bring the suspension components more to the centre, will this effect corner handling too?

[Pagie84a]

+1 for doing it like sheppo. Drilling out the spotwelds on spring perch is not too destructive can always be plug welded back in.
http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/...psepjtvrkg.jpg

[SHEPPO3930]

always put the spring as outboard as you can in relation to the diff. the factory diff has the springs set wider at the bottom (on the diff), and narrower at the top (outside the chassis rails). unfortunately for some racing classes, you can't move the original suspension points, hence why my car has the spring in the same location as stock, even though they are on totally new mountings.

if you are worried about originality, simply keep the set up as is, and put in some short stroke shocks (commonwhore/camaro shocks fit). as for ride height, get a set of springs (any springs) and fit them, work out what you want the height to be, then get someone like K-Mac to make you some replacement springs to your specs. It's cheaper than you think and you wont have to hack apart your car. Just remember to set your final ride height with a tank of fuel in it, and the car complete!

["Z" UTE]

Yeah i've seen a few of those adjustables spring conversion, i've been following your build too sheppo nice work. Wish i could get my hands into it myself like you but unfortunately im only set up and know how to work with timber.
i'm not really comfortable with hacking out the top spring seat (ironically, an origionallity issue i have, would like to keep them if it has another life as a more origional approach) but if i was to use an original point it would be there z ute. After all that point is already designed to take the corner load of the car.
it may be something i have to reconsider, i had ideas of the coilover being at the rear of the diff so it was easier adjust. i'm pretty stubborn, lol, so i may have to talk to an engineer about it and throw the kitchen sink at it if i have to.
From a handling/ suspension geometry point of view is it better for the L & R suspension points to be as wide as possible between each other? Mounting off the chasis rail will bring the suspension components more to the centre, will this effect corner handling too?

The spring point is designed to take the corner weight of the car, the shock mount points however will not support that load/weight.