low idle/stalling probs *update*

[74sLeeka]

hey all.. new guy here..

i just bought a 74 TA22.. luv it..

i bought it without roadworthy, which was stupid and it costed me $1,260 for new suspension, brakes, clutch leaks, steerin arm replaced etc etc.. and the beast still idles terribly..
it never sits still, goin from 1k to 500 revs up n down wen im sittin at the lights, she stalls constantly on gear down changes..

wen i bought the car, i was told from the previous owner it was the oxygen sensor, it was swapped from carby to EFI and no o2 sensor was put it.. being the poor man that i am, got one from the wreckers, went to a mech. and $50 later it was in..

i stole it from a sh*tty old VN, and it costed me $3
she still stalls.. is it that the oxygen sensor doesnt work, or was it not needed to begin with ? i need the advice here..

i was told by my roadworthy mechanic that the air flow meter should be replaced; could it be that alone that causes my problems ?

i just dont wanna replace one/both o2 sensor and air flow meter (btw how much would that be?) and she still doesnt work to her potential..

heres a pic of my air flow meter, simply bcoz i could wen i had the camera out this mornin :

[Vios-GT_07]

Idle Control Motor!!!

either that or u've got very lumpy cams

but judging from the pic.. the engine bay doesn't look too good everything seems to be everywhere. the O2 sensor wouldn't do anything for idle though it's more to do with the A/F ratio.. so installing it might get u better (or worse) fuel economy but definitely more efficiently (the definition of the ECU) running.

way i look at it.. ur computer might be bugged too.. what motor is it??

[kingmick]

agreed more than likely idle up and very hard to tell from that info and pic without seeing it whats going on. sounds like a good DIY project. it isnt the o2 sensor as it will run without it. look at vaccum lines,idle bypass etc

[Vios-GT_07]

oh yea good point kingmick

also if the conversion from carbie to EFI involves just the head and a loom u might have lots of bits missing

[slide86]

how bout a vacumn leak. that inlet duct looks like it has seen better days.

- if the engine is sucking in un metered air (post AFM) then that will cause erratic idle and cause it to run rough also.

- there is a idle screw on the AFM that can be adjusted. see if that makes a difference, if not, its a good idea to put it back to where it was.

- i used to have erratic idle with my GZE. the flap in the AFM was set too loose and would move to easy and cause idle to go up and down.

just a few things to check out

[mic*]

If you know, tell us what "swapped from carbie to EFI" means. Full engine swap? And as asked what motor is it?

When you say stalls on down shifts, do you mean like compression braking? If so i think its the IACV (idle air control valve) or whatever it is that your motor has to bypass the throttle for idling air. Specifically i think its blocked or not working.

[BeRad]

it tells u the motor in his sig 2tgeu


doesnt get any more in ya face in bright blue haha

[mic*]

The reason i say this is coz after overrun, if the engine is starved for air it can stall out before the ECU starts squirting an idle worthy amount of fuel in again...

[74sLeeka]

If you know, tell us what "swapped from carbie to EFI" means. Full engine swap? And as asked what motor is it?

When you say stalls on down shifts, do you mean like compression braking? If so i think its the IACV (idle air control valve) or whatever it is that your motor has to bypass the throttle for idling air. Specifically i think its blocked or not working.

ye.. in my sig.. lol.. 2tgeu
the previous owner took the carbie head off the engine, and replaced it with an EFI head..not the full engine tho (i'm not too mechanically skilled; forgive me)

What i mean on down shift stalls is, i'd be approaching the lights or what have you, and i'd be engine braking/gearing down and i would go from 3rd to 2nd, and if i don't lift the clutch again, the tacho needle simply doesn't stop, it continues on its way down until it conks out. say i was to lift the clutch, the car revs, and then when i come to a complete stop, i put the clutch back in, and some of the time, it will just die, but on the miracle occasain, if it were to not die, it would come close to it every time. ie - revs go down to almost 0, and at the last second, just kick back up, to idle unstably.
i've noticed that, if i put the clutch in when im still moving quite fast (revs around 2k), the needle wont have as far to drop so to speak, and almost always stays alive.. but if i was in gear 2, and im about to completly stop (goin real slow, revs at 1.2k) and i put the clutch in then, its almost sure to die..
to explain it.. it feels/looks like it loses to much power, and suddenly something happens, or goes thru, or whatever, and its back to normal again.. but some of the time, the "kick back" never gets there in time, and it will be on 0 revs before it "saves itself'

real sorry bout the non-mechanic lingo and know-how.. its the best i could do to explain it

The advice that was given to me was that it was air intake/output problems.

Any ideas? and if so, preferably in least-technical language possible

cheers guys.. any help would be appreciated

p.s. sorry about late reply from first post, been doin stuff this weekend

[74sLeeka]

but judging from the pic.. the engine bay doesn't look too good everything seems to be everywhere.

the previous owner did all the wiring himself, so yes, it is quite messy in there, and i have not enough know-how to fix it, and don't want to/can't afford to pay someone to do it..

anyone wanna help me for free ?

[mic*]

When you decellerate with your foot right off the pedal the engine will "overrun" or no fuel goes in. Makes more effective use of compression since you are usually trying to stop, and if a bit of fuel was still squirting in there compression braking would be less effective and you would be wasting fuel.

When you get back to idle the fuel comes back, and a bypass of some sort around the throttle butterfly (IACV / ISCV) will allow enough air through for it to idle.

I think your problem will be either with this bypass, or with the responsiveness of your fuel system - ie, new fuel filter wouldn go atsray, clean ur injectors...

[74sLeeka]

will look into it.. thanx alot..

[74sLeeka]

went to bursons today..

asked 4 a new fuel filter for my '22..

they didnt have it.. they only had sum plastic shit.. and i checked mine out, 'tis metal base.

is it an import or something ?

1974 celica ta22 car.. 1983 2t-geu engine..
any ideas on where/how to get a fuel filter ?

Cheers..

[74sLeeka]

got a mate thats an apprentice at toyota..
he went in with my idling problems, punched a few skulls in, you know, whatever he had to do to get the answer i need...

everyone he asked had the same conclusion: busted-up piston rings

now, this is a heavily costly procedure, costs which i do not have..

just checking, is there a way of testing or finding out if this is the cause of my prblems without the 20 hrs of labour rebuilding my engine?

better yet, does anyone have a spare set of x-ray goggles, or similar, like the torch in futurama when bender and fry went looking for the winning bottle cap in slurm cans ?

Ow! My sperm!
*Bender does it again..*
Hey, it didn't hurt that time..

[Vios-GT_07]

piston rings??

that's easy.. compression test will tell u all !!

what's happened to the suggestions made here? print it out, read it and stand in front of car.. it'll all come to you so don't worry about x-ray goggles and futurama.. less u dun wan kids? heheheheheh

if i was in Victoria then yea i've had some experience with wires wouldn't mind a few hours for some beer? heheheh .. it's simple high-school stuff... find out wat wire does what, arrange it nicely and bundle it with cable tie so it's not all over the engine. COmmon sense does it like not to put wires close to belts and cover up battery terminals..