UZZ31 Soarer issues (EMV blank, lack of power)

[pearl_white]

Replace coolant temp sensor(s) as well, mine used to be great cold then very lethargic once warmed up, replaced the coolant temp sensor along with thermostat and performance was as expected, also had a decrease in fuel usage as the ECU finally knew what temp the car was actually running at.

Hi, thanks for the reply
Will try a temp sensor - can't hurt I guess.

Do you have the part # and a rough price?

/expects heart attack

[Kedderz]

Was years ago, use toyodiy or equiv to get part number and do some googling.

[pearl_white]

Updates:

Fixed the fuel leak from the filler - with 2 part epoxy (radiator/fuel tank repairer).
TPS is set in a position where the idle seems stable - no more jerking and so on.
Found a trans fluid leak - or rather, I am missing fluid, but there is no leak as such.
Filled the trans fluid up again - car gained a lot more power from 2nd gear up.
1st gear is still sluggish - it seems the accelerator only recognizes 30%, pushing it to 50% does nothing - car does not go faster usually.

Error codes. 63 and 84 now show up.

63 is solenoid #2 playing up in the gearbox. With this error, you should only get 1st and 4th gear when in drive.
I am getting all gears however... It's just a slug before 40kmh.

Was quoted $150 for solenoids 1 and 2 (they are joined in this instance) from a transmission shop in South Australia.

84 is front right suspension being too high or something. It is too high - sits about 2 inches higher than front left.
Apparently this is a sensor issue - but I have no idea. So that's something else on the list...

- So, now curious if its the ECU giving me a code 63, or if the trans is REALLY playing up.

I tried to remove the ECU yesterday but could not get it out - I need pointers please

1. move carpet.
2. undo two bolts holding big black cover on top of ecu - and remove cover.
3. undo two bolts on the right hand side of the ECU - the bracket.
4. Lift ECU out.
5. Undo bottom wire harness thing to properly get ecu out.

Is that it? - coz when I get to part 4, nothing happens.
After undoing 2 bolts holding the bracket to the ecu - the ecu should come right out, right?
Well - It seems glued in place. Even with the bracket undone - the ECU will not slide out.

What is the trick here?

Pointers appreciated
Will post pics of ECU!


Also - have not replaced thermostat or coolant temp sensor yet. Gauge seems fine however. Oh - did replace radiator cap to stop water pissing out of the overflow hose too!

[pearl_white]

Another update!


After months of no idle surge or high RPM -

Car has started to have a high idle (or surge) again on start up.
Car sometimes (every 4th start or so) idles at 1500rpm in park and neutral and will not go down.
It goes down to 1000rpm in drive (when it should be 700rpm).
Still has no launch power compared to when purchased 10,000kms ago.
Car will not kick back when pushing the button under pedal when the idle is playing up.

When the car starts up with a normal idle of 700rpm, everything is fine (aside from that launch power -although it's still better than with the high idle).

I have cleaned and replaced the IACV and bearings. - Car now stalls upon start up as idle is too low. 400rpm. ???
Have to keep the foot down and manually rev it to 1000rpm til it warms up for 30 seconds - otherwise it stalls.
After 30 seconds of holding the foot down, or simply driving 100m or so, the car will not stall even if idling at 400rpm.

I have put a new fuel ecu in.
I have changed coolant and bled everything.
I have had a trans flush.
I fixed the fuel restrictor leak (where you put petrol in).
I have bought a new coolant temp sensor. (I have heard one goes to the ecu, one goes to dash. I replaced the ecu one).
I have changed fuel filter.
I have a dirty air filter - grey. Still looks reasonable, but it IS due...

....

All that is left is:

1.ECU recap - once I finally get the thing out of the car. It is stuck on something even though all bolts are removed.
2.PCV valve.
3.Alternator + battery.
4.Solenoid #2 error (from either the trans itself being faulty, or the ECU throwing bodge codes).
5.Plugs + leads etc. (Still need to check these ... But have been putting them off as they look fine - and as other issues seem more likely).

Hopefully this car is fixed shortly - as it is starting to piss me off.

Any more pointers or insight would be most interesting.

Thanks