MR2 Gen2 3SGTE - Questions regarding shims (diagram)?

[Howieau]

Hey guys, my friends MR2 with the 2nd gen 3SGTE made a constant loud ticking sound when driving, very audible. So we pulled the valve cover off and checked his shim clearances. They are as follows;



Ive never done any work in the area of shims before so i have a few questions;
1. If the shims have worn unevenly as in the clearances are all over the place on either camshaft, should that be a concern? Or is that normal?
2. Do I replace all 16 shims to start it fresh, or only the ones on the valves that failed to meet the Toyota recommended shim clearance.
3. Is it as simple of a job as just lowering the lifter with a screwdriver and using a smaller screwdriver + magnet to life the shim from the lifter, then reinsert the new one in a similar fashion? I have read this in some online tutorials for similar valve train setups.
4. His timing belt was also a little loose aswell, which we are going to change with new tensioner etc, but could this have affected the uneven shim clearances at all, I cant see why they would but thought id best ask.
5. Last but not least, who is best to see about new shims. I hear this lad is good; http://www.precisionshims.com.au/, any others to check out?

If you can answer any of these questions itd be much appreciated. Thanks in advance

[AbaddonMR2]

I did the shims on my MR2 recently... Gen2 as well.

There is a special tool kit I bought from toyota which has a tool to push the shims and valves down (levers off the camshaft) and a thin tool which you stick between the edge of the bucket and the camshaft. I then used a small blade screwdriver to lift the shim up (they get vapour lock with all the oil) and a magnet on a stick to take it out. You need to make sure you put the notch in the bucket facing outwards as this is where you put the screwdriver.

You already have the clearances so when you get the shims out measure them with a micrometer and calculate the thickness of the one you need, there is a table in the BGB that helps. Replace any that look worn.

When you put them back in you put the little tool that holds the bucket in on the side where the cam bolts in, and slip the shim in from the other side... it's quite tricky at first but after a few it's a piece of cake. Make sure you check them after they are all in.

The cam belt and tensioner should not affect the shim clearance... although I think they both stem from a common cause... lack of servicing! Hopefully the valves and the head will be OK.

Put a new cam cover seal in and follow the BGB as to where to put the drops of sealant or it will leak... I also replaced those dodgy phillips head bolts with hex head bolts from a kit from 2'srus.

Nathan

[Howieau]

Thanks for the input man. I had an idea of all this from the BGB but just wanted to verify some things. Much appreciated. +rep

[hamgatan]

I was going to say if you needed the gen 2 BGB i have a mirror of it on my domain ->

http://www.therealaussie.com/auto/mr...mechanical.htm

http://www.therealaussie.com/auto/mr...electrical.htm

[Chinodejerze]

I'm trying to find the BGB article you guys are talking about but I'm new here. Can some one help me .?

[knightrous]

http://opc.mr2oc.com/

1991 SW20 BGB - http://www.mr2oc.com/downloads/bgb/M...PAIRMANUAL.zip
1993 SW20 BGB - http://www.mr2oc.com/downloads/bgb/M...PAIRMANUAL.zip

[Chinodejerze]

Hey guys haven't had much luck finding the BGB post with the diagram, but that wasn't my primary concern I can always make one, what I'm not sure about is if the shim formula is the same as from a Gen I than to a JDM Gen II. I know the valve clearances are definitely different but was wondering about the formula for a JMD Gen II. If anyone can directly link me to the post I'd appreciate it or answer my question .?