Bosch 044 Fuel Pumps, Filters & rubber lines heating up/getting hot

[dnegative]

Its going to be working hardest at idle, your pumps are of a fixed positive displacement and run at a set RPM.
At idle they will be pumping 8L/min to the fuel rail, engine will be using sweet fuck all of that idling so its all getting returned via the pressure regulator (aka pressure relief valve) to your surge tank.


When ever you have a relief valve in constant operation, your fluid (be it fuel or oil) is going to get hot.

[oldcorollas]

do you have/can you borrow an infrared temp measuring thing?
could start and idle (or run pumps with engine off), then go around fuel system and see what gets hottest fastest, keeping in mind that the fuel will be carryign the heat effectively, but hopefully one part is hotter than the rest (ie, rails, or reg, or there is temp differential between inlet and outlet of fuel pump)

with a bit of luck, you might be able to find the heat source

[stradlater]

Yes, of course... I see, that was a fair rookie comment really!!! on my behalf that is.

I'm gonna play with the FPR and see whether that's failed. I was assured it was genuine but a few things stood out as not being genuine, so I think I may have been stooged..

[stradlater]

So, don't start the motor, run the pumps for a bit and see what heats up first? That makes a lot of sense actually...

[dnegative]

yeap, give that a try.

[stradlater]

Thanks dudes.....

[oldcorollas]

only concern with no motor on is current draw on battery, and batt voltage being 12V vs 14.xV when running.

one way to get around that, is to put jumper leads from your battery to a running cars batt
but chances are the 044's will still push shitloads of fuel at 12V (but could be 40% less? who knows.. better to have proper voltage)

good luck

with IR thermometer, shiny surfaces etc may give off different signal (ie, not read right).. so you can equalise each surface by using a standard thing... like masking tape or something?
or.. just do it by feel hands are pretty sensitive...

[stradlater]

thanks mate.

[Celica RA45]

sounds to me ,is pumps are 2 big for what you are doing 40psi isnt much but 2x240litre a hr will be
i was using a 044 like you in my race car ,and was overheating the fuel as well with 75psi reg pressure,changed back to the 910 motorsport pump or 130 litres same 75psi and now dont have any problems on any hot fuel with 440cc inboards and 1000cc outboards on the 3sge
and no lift pump either but its got a RA 45 efi tank thou

[stradlater]

So, just ran them without the engine being on - and turns out it's the Facet lift pump that gets hot first.

It also remained the hottest - that said, the whole system didn't get anywhere near as hot as when the engine is running, so clearly that plays a factor.

I suspect I might be chasing gremlins that don't really exist. Guess I should just run it until a pump dies. Not like I've got a lack of motors lying around to fix if it does any damage!

Should those little Facet pumps get hot?

I'm going to go over the wiring again too.

[DX20VT]

the facet pump from the main to the surge tank right?

Have you got a return from the surge to the main?

[stradlater]

Facet pump is the lift pump between the main tank and the surge tank.

It's a ~9psi 130GPH pump, one of those noisy little ones.

There is a return from the surge to the main- IE I could run the lift pump ONLY for ever and it would just circulate through the two tanks.

[allencr]

Should those little Facet pumps get hot?

If they're working, yes, hotter then you can touch, discoloring, blistering paint, melting mounts or wires or hoses or stinking hot and being able to smell it cooking away, no.
How'd the wires & terminals & connectors feel?

...for ever...

So heat is added to heat.

[Omegaman]

the facet pump work best and quieter when down stream of the tank.
like gravity feeding it.