Advice for a TA22

[king-szeitszam]

Hey Rachel, if you want to keep the 2T, do it. Trying to get timing parts for a 2TG is getting a whole lot harder (fairly certain they are made of unobtanium now) and there is a big market for go fast bits for the 2TC & 3TC in the States. I've had my '74 TA22 for just over 20 years with a 2T and it keeps going. I have a single side draft Mikuni-Solex 40mm carbie and it gets down and boogies when it has to. The secret is to find an old school tuner who knows what he's doing with carbies.

A couple of web pages for you to look at:
Paradise Racing - High Performance Parts for Toyota's

Welcome To BRD Racing: Your Toyota 3TC and 2TC Performance Specialist


race series 4cyl DCOE throttle body kit 40mm
(these guys are in Aus but the Paradise racing set up is somewhat more affordable)

If you are determined to go a 2TG try:
- SW Motorsport

Remember it's your car and you have to be happy with it.

Cheers
Matt (The militant 2T lover)

True as well, my 2T never gave up on me during the time I had it, however I still went down the 2TG route as it's far more cost effective to modify, there's far more power readily available and there's no downside to electronic management.
Also lets not forget that 2T parts can also be incredibly hard to find as well..this is not exclusive to the 2TG engine and you will run into similar issues with ANY 40 year old engine you buy.. because they're 40 years old.

I know (knew) one guy who could tune my carbs how I wanted them- he charged $600 a session and has since retired and dropped off the map. I know about 30 guys who will happily tune my Haltech ECU..and I never have to get it tuned again unless I want it to.

My car is a daily and I found that the flexibility aftermarket management gave me was simply too good to pass up. My fuel economy is better than ever, and the drive is fantastic. In this sense I'd never go back to the 2T as it was better suited to the open road and flying around the countryside on weekends. Unfortunately in reality this was less than 10% of the driving I did and most of my time was spent in traffic or on suburban roads- something a finely tuned ECU managed engine is far better suited to handling.

Don't get me wrong- not knocking carbs here at all. I'm simply saying that for my application and in my experience the 2TGEU is a far superior engine.
Yes buying a 2T will save you money in the short run and they are a great little motor- but at the end of the day they're a $300 engine that will have $2000 of modifications on it to make half the power a 2TG would with the same mods.
If you want to drive the 2T stock, then great go for it. But if you're looking to modify it I really think your money would be better spent elsewhere.
Take it from me- I blew a lot of money on my 2T before I wised up and bought a 2TG. My only regret is not having done so sooner- as I would have saved myself upwards of $2000.



Also in reference to DCOE throttle body kits. Australian/American manufacturers will charge $1400 and up for a full kit. This was simply too much for me to fork out- which is why I spent 2 months hunting around until I found Dbilas. You can buy the same kit from them for $600 and I'd be confident in saying the quality is even better. They will generally do package deals too, and cut down the cost a bit on postage.


Like Matt said above- it's your car and you have to be happy with it. At the end of the day it's not one of us that has to drive it, it's you. All the advice we give you is meaningless if you don't enjoy driving your car, or it's not what you wanted. We can only speak from our personal experience with these cars and already you've had a number of differing opinions which is great- that's what Toymods is all about.

[TheToyman75]

King,

This isn't the place for a 2T verse 2T-G discussion. But a few simple points to keep it all clear for Rachael and anyone else following the thread.

# 2T-G and 2T-C engines have a similar level of aftermarket Parts support. (2T-G from Japan and 2T-C from the US) If anything there is more for the Single cam than the twin but both are well supported if you don't mind opening your wallet.
# Both engines are a similar vintage so will probably arrive in a similar state of disrepair.
# In Australia a 2T-C is about 100 times easier to find/buy than a 2T-G and should cost you very little.
# The 2T-G is the Performance superior engine - That said - a 2T-B has less compression from Factory than a 2T-G and still only makes 10hp or so less at the flywheel. Both engines respond well to mods, peak power figures that can be achieved are not much different. (Give both engines the same compression, valve sizes and flow figures and there wont be all that much in it)

# A built 2T-G will be easier to sell than a built 2T-C.
# A "For Sale" add for your car that includes the words Twin Cam, will make the teenage boys more interested in buying it.

# You can get an A/C compressor bracket for either engine and both will be hard to find - 2T-G being MUCH harder to get than the rare as hens teeth 2T item.

Speaking of A/C - If you want to use the factory vents you will need a Factory Fitted system not a dealer fitted system. I have only seem one Dealer fitted system that used the factory Air box.

[king-szeitszam]

Toyman,

Apologies if I sounded argumentative- threads like this are tricky as everyone has different ideas and opinions, sometimes it's very easy to forget that you are talking about someone else's car and not your own! Thank you for summarising what I was trying to say.


Purplehaze,
They were both fine engines. Both have good and bad points and it's just a matter of identifying them honestly and assessing what you can live with. Some excellent points have been raised above in terms of engine options and it should be fairly easy for you and your husband to do up a pros/cons list for the two engines (or any others you're interested in) and hash it out from there.

2TG's are getting increasingly hard to find, but that said I've found two or three for sale from private sellers in the past couple weeks that seem to be in good shape..people must be getting rid of their hobby cars.
A factory A/C system to suit a 2T sold two weeks ago on 1stGenCelica for $700 and they do occasionally pop up on there. I would recommend looking on the classifieds there for your A/C or putting up a wanted ad- there's a big first generation following in the US and they have their fair share of rare goodies.

[The Green Terror]

Yes sir, Mr Toyman sir

No argument I promise, and I agree with King, he decided he wanted to go 2TG, did, enjoyed it...I think we are in heated agreement that the best thing is to really enjoy car you're in.

[king-szeitszam]

Hear, hear!

[TheToyman75]

Hi Guys,

No problem at all with the input from either of you re 2T and 2T-G engines and its great to see a supporting case for each variant.
I just wanted to get in first before the band wagon was joined by 2 dozen others who wanted to claim that "mine was bigger than yours" because they had nothing better to do over the weekend

[purplehaze]

wow, such a wealth of info & very persuasive arguments for all engines.
At the moment I'm leaving the original engine in. The kid I brought her off said that he had only had it 2 weeks, and that he had got it from a mechanic in Canberra, who assured him the engine had been reco'd, and the engine does look to be reco'd, as the gaskets under the head, rocket cover, water pump etc all seem new, she starts 1st crank, the carbi throats are clean as whistles, don't know what brand it is, cause I haven't taken the air filter housing off yet for a closer look, the bottom end is spotless, not even any road grime under the sump, nothing, it has been cleaned under body tip to toe, ..........so all that said, it's staying in for now. I am going to concentrate the $$$ on the body work & paint 1st, then the interior & the bushes, & suspension etc.

I do the daily commute to work, so mostly city driving, (not that Geelong is a big city, but hey!) so economy versus power will be the key decider for me when I get to the stage of needed to spend $$ on the engine.

[king-szeitszam]

As they say, if it aint broke don't fix it!
Toyheadauto do a great bushings kit. They have a lot of awesome stuff but they're very expensive.
You should be able to find pretty much everything you'll need there, just be prepared to pay a premium. New (polyurethane?) bushes will make a world of difference in terms of ride quality and steering response..plus a lot of the squeaks and rattles will disappear.

Another thing I'd recommend for the interior is a window regulator bushings kit you can get off ebay.
TOYOTA CELICA TA22 TA23 WINDOW SCROLL BAR SLIDERS AND REGULATOR ROLLERS NEW | eBay

Also if you're going full bucket with the interior I'd seriously consider investing in some quality sound deadening. I just did and it's like driving a cloud. I did a lot of research so if you're interested in more info on this just ask.

You may want to check the shocks too as the young fella may have overlooked them- they'll go a long way in improving your ride quality too. Then you can look at king springs or something for a bit of aesthetics but that's up to you.



I'm sure that when you do the engine swap there will be plenty of people willing to give their 2 cents! Careful though; you may start a turf war- some of these guys get very spirited

[ta22fan]

For the rear window regulator refurb - do this:

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...w-rollers.html

I used this technique on rears and front windows, and it works an absolute treat!

[Moey26]

hey guys,
i got a ta22, i just want more power! i got a 32/36 weber, and exactor was wondering what power i can get from that? and what other mods i can do my self? thanks heaps guys!!