Trouble removing bearing inner race - independent rear axle

[1JZ-Rolla]

Hey all

I went to install new wheel bearings in the Supra's rear carriers today, but when cleaning/stripping the hubs, I realised that i've got nothing I can logically use to remove the old inner bearing race from the hub.

Any tips on how you'd normally do this? As you can see in the pic below, there's two-tenths of fark all to get a puller onto, the diameter of the inner race is barely different to the hub step that it seats on.






I could weld something to the old race, but there's got to be an easier way surely?

Cheers

Phil

[hypo23]

Heat up about a 20mm section till its red hot, then you should be able to tap it off.

but also with getting as little heat into the actual hub itself as possible.

[1JZ-Rolla]

yeah bugger..... no access to oxy/acetylene set anymore. Guessing anything less potent will dissipate the heat too fast so both the hub and race will expand together?

[hypo23]

exactly, need an oxy with a gauging or #20 tip to get the heat in quick.

although it so thin any tip will nearly do lol.

i'm used to working with anything from 6-100mm just an oxy with a tip of some sort in it. lol

[dnegative]

For bearings like that I've always cut them off, either with the oxy or with a angle grinder, die grinder and a cold chisel to split the ****. Although truth be told, never touched anything that small.
Set of half moons and a press might get it off though, looks to be a bit of a lip there. Using an oxy to get it off sometimes works, depends how tight it is. If its tight it will grab and you wont get it off with a hammer.

You wont be able to weld anything to it, cant weld whatever bearing races are made of

[Dan_k36]

Half moons will do the trick, take to a local shop they may press them off for free or a small fee

[dnegative]

Yeah I reckon it will get it, doubt its on super tight.

[1JZ-Rolla]

Yeah, measuring the old parts, it's a 0.05mm difference in diameters for the interference fit, so the half moons/bearing splitter might do the trick to get it started.

Cheers
Phil

[petergoudie]

(1) Do the bearings have to be changed as the race looks OK?
(2) How is the oil seal fitted? Does it slide over the step of the race?

[1JZ-Rolla]

That race looks fine, but one of the others had spun on the hub at some stage. Don't want to replace only parts of the bearing set...... should only do the lot if i've got it apart anyway.

Hub is pressed into the bearing carrier after the complete bearing assembly is inserted in the carrier. Oil seal on that side goes in after the bearing inner race.

[petergoudie]

OK, that explains a few things.

I replaced a few bearings on another brand of car I once owned and the bearing/seal housing was used to pull the whole assembly off. We made a plate up with a large hole in the centre and the four housing studs went through the plate in four smaller holes and locked to it with the four nuts. It was then put on a press and the whole lot pulled off at once. Incidentially, this is how the factory did it as well.

[joecoolmk2]

get a 5" grinder with cutoff and grinding wheels. cut of the side of the bearing within about 1-2mm mm of the hub shaft,. then grind the rest off till just before you touch the shaft of the hub, it will heat up and change colour rapidly being wafer thin. give it a few hits, if it's still tight then do the same on the opposite side.

The oxy trick is the best way though, pressing it off will most likely gaul the bearing surface of the hub.

[joecoolmk2]

also if you have access to a welder you could turn the hub upside down and hit the bearing with a lot of amps and it will fall off, basically the same principle as the oxy torch.

[1JZ-Rolla]

^^^ could try that with the TIG yes! Good idea....

I like that much better than sitting there grinding it away. Yes, I am impatient


[EDIT] bugger...... no love for the TIG welder. Heated up one side, quickly tried to move the race, no joy, so heated another section on the other side, still nothing. Did find out that the melting point of the bearing race material must be pretty low, a quick zap on 200 amps had it falling away pretty quick.

[Xauterus]

Just grind it thin with an angle grinder then you will be able to get a chisel in that gap to get it off.