2jzgte ecu has input called "ps" or "psa". It tells ecu about increased pressure, ecu then raises idle rpm. The other sensor wire goes to earth (common).
Ok. Hello everyone. I have a question that I've been searching for a answer for and can't find. I have a 99 gs 300 with. 2jzgte vvti swap. The factory power steering cooler is mounter next to my rack and pinion behind the motor. It has a small leak and I'm planning on moving it to above my fmic. Now my question is. Tere is a sensor on the cooler. It has two wires connected to it that I have discovered are not connected and are pulled out of the loom. I'm wondering what this sensor is for? Al the info I've found is telling me that the pressure sensor is by the pump. Any ideas anyone? Can I just lose this sensor since its not connected and I'm not having any problems with out it. Or should I attempt t trace and find the wires? Does anyone know what it's for? I would love to know before bypassing it all together. Thanks.
2jzgte ecu has input called "ps" or "psa". It tells ecu about increased pressure, ecu then raises idle rpm. The other sensor wire goes to earth (common).
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
I thought that the ps idle up was controlled through vacumn. The line coming off the side of the intake mani going to the fitting under the throttle body that has two vac nipples. And the other side goes to the underside of the throttle body?! I definitely have idle up with power steering the way things are now. And the wires coming off the sensor are not hooked up. I was thinking maybe it has something to do with a speed sensitive steering ecu. I just can't find the wires in any schematic. And it's in such a horrible spot on the harness to try and pull it apart to find the other end of them. It also seems to be a spice point in the harness. Does anyone now if this is from the factory or if someone did for some other reason?
Toyota factory system uses both additional intake air line and pressure sensor for some reason.
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
Oh. Ok. S if I'm not having any problems with the idle up without the sensor connected then I can eliminate it and just run my lines to my new cooler as if it was never there. That'll make me happy. I really didn't feel like having to track the wires down. Lol
of course you can. On my coversion, I even eliminated the air line and still drive ok. Toyota things are [were] very reliable, you can eliminate half of the stuff and the engine would still run )
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
Cool. One more question since you seem to really know what your talking about. I ran a an-8 line out of my trans to the temp sensor side of the rad. Then I ran an-6 to my other cooler and an-6 braided out and back to trans. Is this going to be a sufficient sized line or should I have ran it all in an-8 braided. I originally had them all ran in an-6 push lock. I overlooked the fact that the an-6 braided is 1/16 " smaller Id then the pushlock an-6 line. Am I gonna be alright or am I gonna restrict the pump and reduce the trans fluid flow?
I'm not that experienced, try asking someone else. I just installed stock sized copper pipes and 2 compact sized oil coolers, connected in series . Then went for a hard drive on some hot day. Checked oil temp with a scanner, it was still 85 C (normal value is about 80), assumed everything was ok. So now I just copy that design on all subsequent conversions
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
Gotcha. Cool thanks. I think I need to make them all an-8. Then they would be a little larger Id then oem. Rather then slightly smaller. Thanks for the info.
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