Try another ecu maybe
Or bring car up here and ill look at it hehe
If you are getting an error code 12, try this troubleshooting procedure - it's for a 91 SC400 but should be pretty universal across all 1UZs of similar age
![]()
GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
Try another ecu maybe
Or bring car up here and ill look at it hehe
maybe the crank or cam sensor wires have been reversed , sometimes the wires pull out of the plugs when the plugs are brittle and have been put back in wrong.
Dave
I know you're busy tracking a fault, but when you get it sorted could you start a build thread for this. I'd love to see some pics. Always thought it would be cool to own a 4 runner or surf with a 1uz. Alas i don't have the time nor money to take on such a task and have to live through others joy.
Glen
i was dead set worn out when we were looking at wiring, the power wire for the left camshaft sensor was open circuit between the ecu and sensor.
i think it was also sorted to ground.
i beleave the issue lies there, will just need to get time to head back out and check it out.
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=74911
above is the build thread, though its now lacking updates
im sure one of use will keep you posted
* 84 FJ60 - 37's, 308, 80 series coils/diffs and LS1TT in the makin
* 73 KE26 - x4 Brown Wagz
* 73 KE20 NOW 3T-TE
* 84 KE70 Panno
* MX83 LS1 Track Car
one think im unsure of is if i run a new Unsheilded wire for the camshaft position sensor will it still work?
i cant remember if the sheilding is to keep elec noise in or out?
dan.
* 84 FJ60 - 37's, 308, 80 series coils/diffs and LS1TT in the makin
* 73 KE26 - x4 Brown Wagz
* 73 KE20 NOW 3T-TE
* 84 KE70 Panno
* MX83 LS1 Track Car
He's tot use shielded cable
But if u plan to run a whole new shielded cable from sensor to ecu its big job
Once u split a loom apart its never the same. And will look messy as all fk
Have u put timing light on it
Should be bout 12 degrees then climb as u rev it
Send us the loom and ill wire it properly hehehe
“Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that’s what gets you.”
Jeremy Clarkson
Send him $500 as a gift and he'll do it for free %)
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
If you think its your wiring, I am using this guide to wire mine, might be worth a look. Its very good.
http://oldschool.co.nz/2011/forum/in...=30736#p701443
500 bucks. I dont get out of bed for less than 1000 hehehe
It's easy to wire them up
It's very hard to learn how to diagnose
If timing ain't advancing then its in limp mode
Wire in a diagnostic plug and plug a scanner into it
It might give u something else
But I recon u need to get rid of your code 12
So it's either a sensor or ecu or wiring
wiring to both cam and crank sensors is fine
no high resistance, no shorts to ground, no shorts to positive
pins and connectors are all good fit
be great if i had a ociliscope to check the signal from the sensors.
code 12 cant be cleared, ATM im thinking that the ecu may have an internal fault.
pulled it apart, visually it looks fine.
nathan payed for one today as it came with the missing body plug we need anyway.
will see how it goes.
* 84 FJ60 - 37's, 308, 80 series coils/diffs and LS1TT in the makin
* 73 KE26 - x4 Brown Wagz
* 73 KE20 NOW 3T-TE
* 84 KE70 Panno
* MX83 LS1 Track Car
make sure STA pin is NOT receiving +12v when driving, feel free to send some beer if that helps )
USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own
driving or running?
nath can send beers.......his car haha
* 84 FJ60 - 37's, 308, 80 series coils/diffs and LS1TT in the makin
* 73 KE26 - x4 Brown Wagz
* 73 KE20 NOW 3T-TE
* 84 KE70 Panno
* MX83 LS1 Track Car
Bookmarks