Clutch not disengaging when hot

**Hash_ra23** · 23-09-2012, 09:02 PM

Gday all.

This problem started after replacing the clutch/flywheel on my v160/1jz. It is an exedy hd single plate organic with oem flywheel.

Everything works perfect for the first 15mins of driving. After that the clutch wont disengage properly and its hard to get into first and reverse at a stop. When driving it goes into other gears fine. It creeps a bit in first so its definitely a Disengagement issue.

I have replaced fluids and bled. Straight after bleeding it seemed to take longer for the issue to reappear. I cant see any leaking fluid around the master or the slave.

Any ideas?

Cheers.
Hash.

**BLSTIC** · 23-09-2012, 09:14 PM

Try backing the pedal adjustment off a little (i.e. pedal lower). On some master cylinders just a little pedal movement is enough to keep a pressure relief port blocked, meaning that any extra fluid drawn in when you release the pedal quickly can't get back into the reservoir.

**lexsmaz** · 23-09-2012, 09:35 PM

Does the pedal feel normal when it starts to creep, as in is there the same amount of free travel when cold & when i starts playing up, if its just a light drag i would think maybe wrong grease on the clutch splines etc ?? but if its actually causing the car to creep thats a heavy drag issue, when cooled down from what you are saying it all goes back to Normal ?? ..

Where on the pedal movement Front does the clutch just start to bite when the car is Cold ..

I'm thinking it could be a Master cylinder problem, but the clutch pedal should start to feel bad though ..

I would think the problem BLSTIC mentioned would cause clutch slippage as the fluid expands from under bonnet heat it cant release back & could cause the clutch to start applying slightly hence slip ..

**BLSTIC** · 23-09-2012, 09:47 PM

Gah sorry, brain fade induced answer to the wrong problem.

So next time you drive the car, put the clutch pedal to the floor while in gear and see if it starts grabbing. The master cylinder can leak internally without losing fluid to the outside world.

If it starts grabbing:

Pry the slave cylinder dust seal back a little and see if fluid comes out.
If there's nothing there, unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall (no need to complicate things by undoing lines on most cars) and peel back the similar seal you find there.

How did you bleed the system? I get the best results from gravity bleeding most of the time

**Hash_ra23** · 23-09-2012, 10:40 PM

Guys,

Yes cold again everything is normal.
Pedal starts to bite halfway up cold. i cant remember warm, will drive tomorrow and report back.
I dont remember the clutch feeling abnormal though.
Ive done both gravity and two person bleeding.

**allencr** · 24-09-2012, 11:59 AM

Bad disk, warps with heat into it.
Hang trans off the disk when installing????

**Hash_ra23** · 24-09-2012, 01:09 PM

Originally Posted by allencr

Bad disk, warps with heat into it.
Hang trans off the disk when installing????

Gees hope not. Don't think I could have damaged the disk. Its pull type so disk is on input shaft then bolted up box and then bolted up pressure plate.

Isn't it weird that the disk would go back to normal cold? Is there anyway I can confirm warpage when hot?

**jondee86** · 24-09-2012, 04:18 PM

Try adjusting the pedal so there is a bit less freeplay before you start to feel resistance from the clutch. Don't know about your car, but on mine, having too much freeplay means that the clutch does not fully disengage when the pedal is on the floor.

Cheers... jondee86

**Hash_ra23** · 24-09-2012, 04:50 PM

I've played around with the clutch pedal adjustment with no success. Have adjusted all the way to the end of the threads and issue is the same. All is good when its cold so I don't think this is the issue.

**Hash_ra23** · 21-10-2012, 11:25 PM

So i have a better idea of whats going on now but still not resolved.

When i have the pedal adjustment rod about halway through the threads i have about an inch and a half of freeplay in the pedal I think thats quite excessive. I watched the slave rod movement and all the freeplay is in the clutch fork. I adjust the pedal to the end of the threads to get rid of freeplay but then i dont gain any stroke so the pressure plate releases by the same amount (not enough).

I want to reduce the freeplay in the clutch fork without adjusting the pedal. Problem here is that the mastercylinder is self adjusting and the slave rod stays at the same point. Any ideas?

I hope this isnt too confusing.

**petergoudie** · 22-10-2012, 01:30 AM

Is the arm (or fork) that holds the release bearing pressed steel or cast? A common fault with a Peugeot model I onced owned was that the pressed steel release arm fatigue cracked at the pivot point. The arm was still able to transmit force enough so when moving changes could be made but force limited itself when stationary. If your arm is cast I imagine it would break off rather than bend but if pressed steel it could have a fatigue crack in it or the standard arm just can't handle the extra load a heavy duty clutch implies on the whole system. Unless you have a lot of extra power you should avoid HD clutches as they load up eveything else.