....no....
I don't mean you can bend it 90 degrees and it won't effect it XD I mean TiG welds are more flexible then MiG, Hence less likely to crack... Thats what my lecturer told me, Should have explained that, sorry =P
My Daily: NooB's Delivery Vehicle
My wife's Daily: Series B RA40 Liftback 22RE, power steering, AC. Cushy as.
Current Project: NooB 3TGTE swap
Back Burner: 1964 Toyopet ToyoAce, and a Series B TA45 GT coupe
Too many cars
TIG will pump more heat into the spot, you need a really clean surface around the weld, you don't want epic flexibility in the area of the weld anyway, the boundaries between weld-pool, heated metal and existing metal will be fracture zones, cost, suitable filler rods, ... Get Mig, wire-brush weld spots, spray weld-thru primer, stitch as required, fill-in unused holes, repair rust holes, re-brush weld spots, spray with primer, done.
fwiw, I'm only doing some basic stitch welding on my rally car - I'd rather have things bend a bit rather than smash suspension pickup points. firewall-to-guards, firewall to chassis rail (some), strut towers (sides & tops), tops for rear coils & rear shocks, front guards to chassis rail (some). Towers will link to firewall and front cage legs so upwards/backwards bending moments at the front get transferred to the cage. I'm also tagging the windscreen pillars and roof to the cage and making sure the glass is no longer a stressed member. LCA will get some extra gussets. Otherwise it's a focus on removal of stuff. Less weight is always a good thing.
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