240 Volvo diff into RA40 Celica

[blanky]

I've been checking out the different diff ideas out there including hilux and commonhore diff and i think I'm going for the Volvo one.

My question are what modifications are required apart from the mount transplant from the original diff.

What stud pattern to i convert to?
Is there a requirement for a different offset rims I've seen a difference of 10mm in the diff lengths? as per my previous question.

I think the other earlier celicas have a different size diff so i would love to hear from you if you know of the RA40 stuff

[masterofsinanju]

This one is better for you to search, there is a lot of info and options. Toy77 started this thread but there are others.

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...onversion.html

just using "diff conversion" on the forum search function is a good start although you might use google to narrow it down.

Stud pattern can be whatever you want if you have the right hubs.

EDIT: Noting that the link I gave is for RA23 but the principle will be the same. Also, as far as the width of the diff is concerned, whatever fits under your guards.

[The Witzl]

having gone through this conversion myself (into a KE70).... i came across a few hurdles not mentioned in the "volvo diff into old celica thread".

1. Studs.
Of course you need to weld and re-drill the axles to suit your desired stud pattern... but some points to note!!
Volvo wheel studs have a 1/2" x 20' thread, as opposed to 12x1,5mm thread that toyota has.
The studs on the ovlov diff also locate the disc rotor as well as hold the wheel in place.
When chosing what studs to go for... you have to ensure that they have enough shoulder on them to locate the disc rotors as well as hold the wheel on securely. Of course you also need to drill your disc rotors accordingly too.

I had no choice, i bought my axles welded/redrilled already, to suit the volvo studs. Hence i now have a front and rear set of wheel nuts (different threads!)


2. Wheel locating spigot
The centre spigot that locates the wheels on a toyota is 55mm iirc.
Volvo is more like 60mm, or something similar.
You have to machine down the spigot to suit toyota wheels, of course..... there is plenty of meat there to do it.... best of getting this done at the same time as welding/re-drilling.

3. Do all of the above BEFORE you get new bearings and seals fitted!!!

[blanky]

having gone through this conversion myself (into a KE70).... i came across a few hurdles not mentioned in the "volvo diff into old celica thread".

1. Studs.
Of course you need to weld and re-drill the axles to suit your desired stud pattern... but some points to note!!
Volvo wheel studs have a 1/2" x 20' thread, as opposed to 12x1,5mm thread that toyota has.
The studs on the ovlov diff also locate the disc rotor as well as hold the wheel in place.
When chosing what studs to go for... you have to ensure that they have enough shoulder on them to locate the disc rotors as well as hold the wheel on securely. Of course you also need to drill your disc rotors accordingly too.

I had no choice, i bought my axles welded/redrilled already, to suit the volvo studs. Hence i now have a front and rear set of wheel nuts (different threads!)


2. Wheel locating spigot
The centre spigot that locates the wheels on a toyota is 55mm iirc.
Volvo is more like 60mm, or something similar.
You have to machine down the spigot to suit toyota wheels, of course..... there is plenty of meat there to do it.... best of getting this done at the same time as welding/re-drilling.

3. Do all of the above BEFORE you get new bearings and seals fitted!!!

Simple as that hey.

so if i went and got some studs re-drilled the axles to suit say a ford/holden stud pattern this enables me to a bigger choice of wheels.

I am thinking i might get the hopper stopper brakes to suit, due to the lack of coronas struts getting around and get the hubs made to suit the stud pattern i end up with.

[gmonkey]

not too hard to use stock volvo stud pattern (5x108 or 5x4.25") also hopper stoppers can come in 5x108 aswell

[blanky]

A friend told me today he is running the commodore diff in his . I asked him "how much?" "$1200" he replied . he then went on to tell me that it was drop of pick up all done . I can do the mounts myself shorten it myself I just cant do the re spline of the axle shafts . So i'm now leaning towards the commodore diff (strong, stock lsd , popular stud pattern , easy handbrake , spare parts are cheap and everywhere) just gotta work out how much re splining is .


thoughts

[gmonkey]

commodore stock lsd, also not strong at all. the best thing to commodore diff has going is the easy to source centres and stud pattern which again aint that great (5x120 pretty sure)... 5x108 is the old holden stud pattern (aka toranas, kingswoods and some early commodores) so easy to find some 'muscle' wheels or modern wheels for a jaguar.

the volvo 2340 diff is one of the strongest available, a lot of drag cars use them and putting out lots of torque. easy 2nd to the ford 9" in my opinion without the size. You also won't need to shorten the volvo one as u just pick wheels with the right offset and you should be fine.


Just my opinion on it but (bit bias maybe as i got volvo rear) oh yeh and it has volvo brakes!

[blanky]

what car are you running that in gmonkey with what power output . i intend to run a 1ggte with a w55/8 box

what other mods did you need to do . are you running the same stud pattern on the front of yours and how

[gmonkey]

ra28,

1jzgte - a340 approx 225kw and near 400nm.

same stud pattern on front with hopper stopper kit. and only other mod to it was a 2 peice prop shaft. will be doing a few mods to gbox soon (stall converter etc)

[gmonkey]

oh and i spent the extra and went with a quaffe lsd, there is lots available more so lockers as uses a dana 30 27spline which is found in the front diff of jeep wranglers (truetrac is a good pick for a under 500 centre)

oh and the wheels im ordering are performance wheels superlites gtr 15" drilled in 5x108

[blanky]

Gmonkey With the hopper stopper kit in the front and the Volvo diff in the back was there a need for a particular offset rim. I realise you have an ra28 but i think there the same in this department correct me if i'm wrong. what did the lsd set you back? that's the only real cherry for the commo diff due to the range of centers. would be nice just to weld in the mounts and bolt it in . oh was there a need to change anything on the pinion flange to suit the drive shaft

[gmonkey]

you can just run the volvo diff stock but will be a single spinner (same as commodore). offset on the rear is a bit more as the axle is 10mm longer than the ra28, the front however is fine no real change. The quaffe lsd is one of the most expensive on the market at around 600pounds + delivery from uk (about 1200aud or so). dunno if they changed my pinion flange when i brought it to a shop to do my driveshaft, i brought front half from a soarer and rear half off a volvo. think they used the front and bits off the rear

[blanky]

ok i'm puzzled a little .

whatever diff i choose I'm going to have to get rims and tyres to suit . i may even have to change the stud pattern in the axles and the hopper stopper hubs to match.

What do i change them to? . A New/secondhand Rim considering the offset needed to clear front suspension i think the ra40 standard offset is +13 and a 5" wide rim

if i were to get 16"x 7" or 17"x 7" i think the offset would have to be +6 to clear strut . so what car has that size rim with a offset of +6.

even 16/17x 6.5"

if i have it all wrong please let me know . my head is spinning


thanks