How to tell if ECU is in limp-mode?

[Andrew162]

Ok so I'm trying to adjust the timing on teh 162 after it's been pinging during several short trips today. As I understand it, the ECU has to be in limp-mode in order to correctly adjust the timing. In the DIAGNOSIS port, terminals T and E1 have to be bridged... I've tried bridging these two terminals with various things from a piece of speaker wire to a bobby-pin to a paperclip. At all times, the bit of wire that's meant to be bridging the terminals is loose in both terminal gaps. I can't actually see the contacts to get a good link between the two terminals as they're coated in that electrical grease (or whatever it is)....

Is there a way to tell for sure if the ECU is in limp-mode? I just want to find out if there's a reason why the timing seems to be slipping. I adjusted it yesterday to 10deg because of the same problem, and I look at it today and it's at ~13deg.

Any tips appreciated.

Cheers.

[JetspeedCamry]

Watch for the Check Engine Light. If those two termials are bridged correctly, the CEL will either flash constantly, or flash an error code if any are stored.

[Andrew162]

The ignition has to be on for the engine light to be flashing, correct? Thanks heaps..

[wilbo666]

The ignition has to be on for the engine light to be flashing, correct? Thanks heaps..

Correct, ign on from what I remember (with the terminals bridged).

Should be easily googleable as well tho...

Cheers
Wilbo

[JetspeedCamry]

The ignition has to be on for the engine light to be flashing, correct? Thanks heaps..

Yep. Correct.

[Andrew162]

Hmmm strange... I've tried every possible way to get these terminals bridged and I can't get the ECU warning lamp on the dash to flash (go into limp-mode).

I wonder is there anything I'm doing wrong?

[Jorrs]

Watch for the Check Engine Light. If those two termials are bridged correctly, the CEL will either flash constantly, or flash an error code if any are stored.

do they, bridge the two wires ova and should flash, use a pin or somethin,

one thing if its not workin the ECU dionistic might not actually be connected ! i found that out with my car, not actually connected so not gona spit anything out.

[Andrew162]

How do I find out, just trace the wires back to the source?

Pretty obvious, but .... yeah..

[Jorrs]

yeh trace the wires underneath it. most likely its the same thing id say, cos u should be gettin lil blimps and stuff.

[Andrew162]

Yeah, I'll check that stuff out later on today. Seems to be a few things wrong with the engine bay right now, which I'm trying to sort out. Well what can you expect with a 20 year old car which has a history that you know nothing of?

[Jorrs]

lol i no exactly how u feel ! not with my GT2 but my old 162, bloody hell i spent alot of time and money on that thing, u prob did c it, but had best paint out of any 162 u seen, i had it resprayed and all. ill post up a pic now if u want.
sum things to worry about are wiring pretty much in these older motors and all, things detirorate and people sumtimes do dumb dodgy things, i remember the 162 i had the guy before me had tried to modify the inside of the AFM but making it open up more, couldnt tell and he had rippedthe solder of a wire and come loose, 2 months of pain in arse it not starting before i replaced the AFM cos i had replaced everything else and it got it workin.

[Andrew162]

"Ignition Timing: 10deg with the terminal T short-sircuited at idle."

Short-circuited to what, E1? The stick under the bonnet for valve clearances and timing specs doesn't say. It appears as though the DIAGNOSIS port is connected to the main loom through the firewall (to wherever it goes), so I'm still scratching my head on this one.

[JetspeedCamry]

Find the T and E1 pins on the ECU connectors.
Connect one end of a Multimeter in CONTINUITY-DIODE TEST mode to either T or E1.
Connect the other side of the multimeter to the diagnostics port corrosponding terminal.

If theres continuity there, then the circuit s connected. So the problem will be elsewhere.

Repeat for the other terminal.

[c2888]

does your check engine light turn on when you turn your key to on, engine not running.
if the light works, then you wanna chase down a broken wire T or E1.
Sometimes the pins can get pushed through the diagnostics plug, so push the wires from the other side to seat them again.

Dan

[Andrew162]

Check engine light does work when ignition key is turned on. I can't tell if the pins are in place or not because the contact grease is smeared in the holes (all of them) and it's not easy to tell if I can get a good contact with these terminals. Unfortunately I don't have a multimeter on me to test continuity.