Modifying the thin plate between engine & gearbox?

[wagonist]

In doing an engine & gearbox swap in a FWD, I discovered that the original shifter cables wouldn't actuate 2nd, 4th, and reverse because one cable was too short.

I can't use the matching cables for the gearbox because they don't match the gearstick end.

Anyway, I've managed to use the cables retaining bracket off the original gearbox to make the shifter work correctly, but that also meant using the starter motor off the original gearbox because it sits 90 degrees over (ie the electric motor is behind the shaft rather than being above), otherwise the cable rubs on the starter.

But this has caused a problem because the diameter of the starter motor where it goes through a thin plate between the engine & gearbox is a slightly larger diameter. This plate different enough to the original engine/gearbox shape to mean I can't use that one and therefore need to enlarge the hole for the starter motor.

It's only a thin plate (3mm I think), but its a large hole. It'd be difficult to drill accurately with a hole saw (if I can find one that big) because how would you centre it on the original hole?

Or should I maybe be looking at getting the starter motor side milled down?

[JP]

I'd scribe the outline of the hole onto the plate, then use a carbide bit/flap disc or similar to grind the thin sheet to shape.

[.T.]

common issue with conversions. scribe line on the dust plate using vernier etc to correct size & location, then file the hole to suit.

setting up holesaw can be done if you have a drillpress (& clamps), but then you have to buy the appropriate holesaw as well

T

[TERRA Operative]

As JP said, a flap wheel will do it. It'll 'self centre' to an extent meaning the hole will be where it needs to be.

[Sam_Q]

as above it will work, also these are commonly known as a dust cover plate, if that's the correct term or not I don't know

[ballpencil]

or some would call it sandwich plate for obvious reason.

[Supra967]

How slight is the diameter increase? Die grinding/flap grinding 3mm plate could take a while.

1 - Clamp the plate to a piece of timber that goes over the centre of the hole
2 - Mark hole centre on timber, you can get quite accurate with a compass if pedantic
3 - Holesaw using the timber for centre location
4 - Open beer and marvle at work

[convertableTA23]

plasma cutter...........

Thats all i have to say

[Sam_Q]

plasma cutter depending on how good it is might work ok, or it might need more finishing. I would use a die grinder myself

I just looked up what this is refered to in the toyota parts manual it said "plate, rear end", well ok then

[convertableTA23]

Plasma cutter would work, just depends how practiced you are with it. My brother is a sheet metal worker and i guarantee if i asked him to cut out said hole he would cut it with the plasma then spend like 30secs with a flap wheel cleaning it up, job done. If he wanted to get really professional he would take it to work and use the cad punch to punch it out. However, if i did it i would use said die grinder cause i'm shit with the plasma compared to him, and would spend ages cleaning it up. Guess it depends what you are used to.

[wagonist]

going to measure up the 2 starter motors with vernier calipers tomorrow.
I don't think there's a great difference, but then we'll know for sure.

I'm guessing this plate is just to stop foreign bodies from entering the clutch/flywheel area & the hole isn't to locate the starter motor (which should be done from the bolts).

So a little bit of slack shouldn't be a problem?