siezed 4age... suggestions/solutions???

[pandaah]

Dude if that was my engine and I was gunna forge/build it hard after the pits then id just crack the sump in the car, knock the rod and piston out the top and buff everything with a wire wheel and itll be good as knew, cheapest head gasket you can and thats it, what will help immensly is if you can borrow a bottle brush hone to give it a quick wizz

[allencr]

should anything be done with the head?

Yes. At least lap those 4 valves & check for straightness, stems & guides for rust. Corrosion on the head & block for the HG's fire ring seat is NFG & will need machining.

[dnegative]

Fuck it, just stuff the hone down it and leave it at that. If it doesn't work I'm sure you can pick up a decent long block for a few hundred.

[PrettyCoolWagon]

Using lots of deisel etc. clean up as much as possible and popping rusty piston out the top sounds like a good start. (Don't like the suggestion of smashing it out with a large steam pipe though... Suggest you use the wooden handle of a rubber mallet and tap it till it comes loose. This will reduce the risk of seriously scratching the bore)
Would definitely suggest you do the other 3 pistons as well. Given the condition of the engine, it's not worth the risk of putting it together after a little tickle up only to find out the other rings are worn.

To answer the question: Are all 16v rings the same?
No they're not.
Bigport and small port 4age & 4agze's use different pistons and each uses a different ring set. As far as I'm aware 8.0:1 bigport (ge & gze) uses a 1.5mm top ring, where the 8.9:1 smallport (ge & gze) uses a 1.2mm top ring.
NPR (Nippon Piston Ring company) makes ring sets for the bigport (8.0:1 CR) pistons and are available on ebay.
However as far as I'm aware, you have to buy smallport 8.9:1 CR) piston rings from a toyota dealer.
Here's a couple of links that explain further...
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...ton-rings.html
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...they-same.html

GZE rings have different part numbers so, even though they're the same size from small port gze to smallport ge & the same size from bigport gze to bigport ge, It's possible the gze's have a different molecular make up to withstand boosted applications. (I'm just presuming)

In any case..
Seems like previous owner may have flogged the engine or at least not torqued the head bolts properly ..in which case 'yes' - check the head and valves etc.
There's plenty of youtube vidz on removing valves without expensive specialist tools
here's a very basic clip to get you started but there are better vidz out there..:

DIY Valve Spring Retainer Removal Tool - YouTube

Be thorough, then later you can forget about it cause you 'know' everything's been done right.
Having blown a head gasket may also suggest the head could be warped. So you should also check the head to see if it needs re-surfacing.
(higher comp ratio! ..depending on which gasket you use..)

[jb_22]

I made a valve remover tool for the valves on my 2TG head: 1 large G-clamp + ~50mm of 1" OD galvanised pipe with a V section angle grinded out of it (like what it looks like chopping down a big tree). Cost me $30 for the G-clamp =) The threaded end of the G-clamp sits on the valve & the pipe squeezes the spring retainer down. From there you can use a small magnetised flathead screwdriver to remove the locking tabs. Be vewwy vewwy careful not to loose them! Sometimes when you tighten the G-clamp there's a bit of a bang when the tension is released from the valve. While you're in there do the valve stem seals too.